fixing bodymounts

[yehaadon]

I was under the b2 and noticed that a few of the body mounts are bad, some of the body is rusted through as well. The passenger side body location is rusted letting the body sag there. some idiot previously shaved the bottom of the hatch !! not alot but still .Cmon man !

I definitely need new bushings , as a matter of fact I dont think I will feel safe driving around until I know Im solid, now that Ive seen some of them. If you can provide a thread link or info on how to repair the body where the mount go it would be appreciated.

Im gonna learn to do some mig welding. If Im gonna own this , I think it would be a good idea. Can I get by using a good 110 welder to repair the sheet metal , or do I need to get a 220 ? Im gonna buy a arc as well. old tombstone welder are everywhere. can you repair the body mounts area with an arc welder or is it too much ?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I found another frame that I robbed a good body mount from and bolted it into place.
I have used a 110 volt Lincoln Weldpac 100 for a lot of years. Including fixing body mounts with a large washer where the bushing sits. I also own a 220V stick welder but have never needed it for this type of repair. I just recently bought a 3-in-1 [stick,mig,tig...$1650 including mixed gas tank] and it's good in that it doesn't require cleaning after welding [with gas shield mig, haven't tried tig yet]. The flux-core 110V welders are great for what we do, especially when it's outside [windy], and on not the cleanest metal [IMO, it will burn thru crud better than gas shielded welders], and are portable and work off a smallish generator. I've used mine on up to 1/4" plate, albeit with more than one pass.
I think you could use a stick welder with small diameter rod but don't have real world experience.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[brinker88]

FYI, a smaller diameter rod burns HOTTER than a larger rod. Stick to 110 MIG for a job like that and you'll be fine.

 

[yehaadon]

thanks guys!