Finally . . .

[anupaum]

My truck is back up and running. I'm still dealing with a minor leak somewhere--I can hear the engine sucking air when I crack open the throttle and I've got a bit of a "hunting" idle--but I think that's because I forgot to install the gasket for the IAC valve . . .

It goes nicely into boost, but now, with the bigger intake tubing, it's topping out at just under 5 psi. That's no big deal, though. I can climb the hill coming home in 4th gear if I so desire, and it accelerates like it's got a MUCH bigger engine under the hood.

Between 1 500 and 1 800 rpm there's a NASTY vibration, though. I'd like to get someone in the cab to hold the engine at that speed while I investigate where the rubbing is happening.

Tomorrow I'll get the laptop out and check to make sure everything is working as it should. From my little excursion this evening though, I'd say it's running pretty well right now.

 

[Davis]

good on ya!

 

[anupaum]

I can't find the vacuum leak. I've tightened everything and it's better, but not perfect yet, and the whistle is notable when I crack open the throttle.

I drove the truck and saved a datalog. I'm getting VERY inconsistent readings from the new O2 sensor I installed. Also, the TPS signal is rather noisy and I'm not sure why. I'm wondering whether or not I've got an electrical problem somewhere.

My stereo isn't working either. It's all very strange!

 

[anupaum]

It turns out I had a wiring problem with my TPS. I've fixed that and it's better now. The O2 sensor is still giving me a bad reading and I'm sure I'll have to crawl back under the truck today to check the wiring.

I've tightened all my connections down and though the leak issue is better, it's still not fixed entirely. Right now I can't get the idle to fall below 1 100 rpm, even with the air bypass cranked all the way down. That means air is getting in there, somewhere.

My stereo isn't working, so I wonder if I've got a blown fuse. It's a REAL PAIN to reach the fuse box in this thing. What were those engineers thinking???

But, the hood shuts, the truck runs and all these nagging, little problems give me something to work on, right?

Ugh!

 

[TireIron]

is the high idle still an issue caused by the TB plate being open some, or did you get it fully closed with a new screw?

 

[anupaum]

The throttle plate is not even TOUCHING the screw!

 

[anupaum]

Through process of elimination, I'm pretty sure I know where my leak is occurring. It's at the intercooler inlet, where I've got a sharp bend in my tubing clamped very close to the bend itself. What makes matters worse, is that the outside diameter of the intercooler inlet is larger than the outside diameter of the tubing.

A reduction coupling won't fit, unless it's a 90 degree bend. This is the tightest spot in my entire installation, and this is NOT going to be easy to fix!

 

[TireIron]

what about having a metal reducer welded onto the tubing at that spot so it can be the size of the IC at each end of the elbow?

Or depending how large the difference is, possibly cut something about 1 inch long out of something that will fit tight on the tubing (rubber hose?), then work the elbow over that so the space is filled and clamp the filler piece down to the tube, and then clamp the elbow down over the filler piece and onto the tube?

 

[anupaum]

what about having a metal reducer welded onto the tubing at that spot so it can be the size of the IC at each end of the elbow?

Or depending how large the difference is, possibly cut something about 1 inch long out of something that will fit tight on the tubing (rubber hose?), then work the elbow over that so the space is filled and clamp the filler piece down to the tube, and then clamp the elbow down over the filler piece and onto the tube?

I think I can fix this, but right now I lack the funds to do much of anything. I really need to cut away more of that stupid radiator support (which doesn't even attach to the bottom of the radiator frame) so I can get a straight section of pipe to clamp down upon.

Also, I went to the wrecking yard today. I'm looking for a THIN blower motor. I noticed that a lot of cars and trucks have their blower motor assemblies INSIDE the passenger's compartment, and I really wish the same was true of my Ranger. If anyone has an idea to share about this, I'd love to hear it. The vibration of the supercharger inlet rubbing against the heater fan housing is driving me nuts!!!