Finally have to pull the trans.

[9723]

LUK brand parts are good. I've used both LUK and Exedy and never had a problem with either. On a 2.3L, your pilot bearing may be in the crank (my '94's was).

I think you're right. The bearing I have in my new parts box is much smaller than the hole in the flywheel, tho I haven't looked at my engine yet. I don't think my manual has any info on getting it out...or in.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

To get that old bearing out of the crank, pack it full of grease and pound a dowel into the hole. the grease will force out the bearing.

 

[Dirtman]

But why not use bread! Get the bearing out, then feed a duck!

 

[9723]

But why not use bread! Get the bearing out, then feed a duck!

Interesting. I've never seen that.

 

[9723]

The pilot bearing I got....and checked on a number of websites, is tiny. I've never seen one that small.
Aprox. 5/8" OD. Little bitty thing.

 

[9723]

The flywheel? I've seen worse. No major grooves, but I'm glad I got the new one. Do I need to replace this metal gasket just behind the flywheel?

Some minor grooves in the p-plate, but you can see why I had chatter.

The clutch wasn't bad either, but I now think it had been replaced.
Below you can see the crease (circled). I didn't put it that there. Somebody lowered the engine with not much care.

I purchase all these parts more than a year ago. Saw this coming. There is a little corrosion, not much, but I think I should clean the p-plate and flywheel with brake cleaner. Should I hit it with steel wool too?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The metal plate behind the flywheel does not need replacing. It is used to position the starter correctly.
FYI There are different plates for manual vs auto.

 

[9723]

The metal plate behind the flywheel does not need replacing. It is used to position the starter correctly.
FYI There are different plates for manual vs auto.

Thanks, good to know.

I bench tested the fit of the clutch and p-plate on to the flywheel just now. It took more effort than I would have thought to get it to go on, and evenly. As hard as getting the old one off the flywheel. Maybe harder. Doing it under the truck is going to be difficult, especially while lining it up with the alignment tool at the same time.

Any tricks for this from the experienced people here?

 

[Shran]

Definitely wipe the flywheel and pressure plate off with brake cleaner to get the oil off. No need to do anything else with it.

Put the flywheel on first, then use your alignment tool to hold the clutch disc in place, then put the pressure plate over it and onto the alignment dowels. Start the bolts and progressively tighten them down - I like to do a triangle pattern kinda like you do with lug nuts. Tighten each down about halfway, then 3/4, then "snug", then torque them. Getting the flywheel on is the hardest but only because it's the heaviest piece.

 

[9723]

Definitely wipe the flywheel and pressure plate off with brake cleaner to get the oil off. No need to do anything else with it.

Put the flywheel on first, then use your alignment tool to hold the clutch disc in place, then put the pressure plate over it and onto the alignment dowels. Start the bolts and progressively tighten them down - I like to do a triangle pattern kinda like you do with lug nuts. Tighten each down about halfway, then 3/4, then "snug", then torque them. Getting the flywheel on is the hardest but only because it's the heaviest piece.

Yeah, that's how I did it....using a crossing pattern like many other places. It seemed harder, even on a table, then when I did my car.....tho the whole engine and trans was on the ground and out of the car. I can block some wood underneath on the cross-member.

I'm probably going to get one of these too:

This is a Sachs, but they have the same in Luk, SKP, AMS and Centric. Prefilled, in the mid $70 ranges. I'll still have to gravity fill the slave, but I don't wanna do this again, so I might as well do this....and a new starter too. I intend on driving this truck another 15 years, but at a 1000 miles a year, that's possible. Only 170k on it. Admittedly I don't want to do the rear main seal, but i'll have to look at it very carefully.

Note: I did just buy this Sachs kit. It was the only one that mentioned it was for the self-adjusting clutch.

All advise is appreciated.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

From now on if I'm that far into a clutch change I will put a new slave in at the same time.

 

[9723]

From now on if I'm that far into a clutch change I will put a new slave in at the same time.

I got that too...two fotos up.
Thanks

At this point, I don't mind spending extra money to be thorough.

 

[9723]

.
A problem for me.

Keep in mind, the oil in these two images are from 20 years of use. This is the engine side of this divider.

I've done a number of smaller axle and block seals successfully, but when I tried a larger rear main seal on my car (about the same size) I couldn't do it, and had to take it to a local pro shop. It was on a part of the block that unbolted so even on a flat, I couldn't do it. I couldn't get it straight. It just rolled around the diameter. So my odds of doing this one successfully are pretty low, and the visible oil could be coming from higher up.

I don't know, it doesn't look bad to me for at least 20 years and 170k miles. How long should a rear main seal on these trucks last?

 

[RobbieD]

I can understand your apprehension. All that I can offer as advice is what I've experienced on mine. I changed the rear main seal on my '94 2.3L Ranger when I did the clutch, and it was surprisingly easy. Removed the old one by driving two screws into the seal and pulling it out; the new one tapped right in using a piece of PVC pipe as a driver (it was the perfect size).

On the other hand, doing the same exact thing on one of my 4.0 trucks, I had to fight the damn thing. I just had to patiently and carefully work it in, and it turned out fine.

 

[9723]

I can understand your apprehension. All that I can offer as advice is what I've experienced on mine. I changed the rear main seal on my '94 2.3L Ranger when I did the clutch, and it was surprisingly easy. Removed the old one by driving two screws into the seal and pulling it out; the new one tapped right in using a piece of PVC pipe as a driver (it was the perfect size).

On the other hand, doing the same exact thing on one of my 4.0 trucks, I had to fight the damn thing. I just had to patiently and carefully work it in, and it turned out fine.

Yeah, I tried the PVC driver on my car... couldn't get it....what'd you use to lubricate the seal, oil or Vaseline?

I have a seal puller, buts risky to use. You can scratch the surface side if you aren't extremely careful.