Finally changed the plugs and fixed the idle

[Mark_88]

My idle adjust screw went missing about a year ago and I've been driving it with a low rpm...finally got tired of having it die at intersections that require three feet to keep it going...

Found out the screw is a 10-32 machine screw and put one in with some locktite...been much better...

I put some carb cleaner through my gas tank also and pulled the plugs the other day to find quite a bit of deposit on them...looked at the reference and it says "engine or oil additive" as the cause...so I swapped out the plugs and, amazingly enough...it actually makes it up hills that I used to have to gear down for...

Still a bit sluggish till it warms up, and in need of a choke...but otherwise...new plugs, wires and rotor/dizzy make quite a bit of difference in the old girl...

Just need to win a million so I can finish rebuilding everything...again...

 

[scotts90ranger]

preachin to the choir... I know the feeling, just got caught up and a little ahead $$ wise and found metal in the oil of my commuter, no garage makes rebuilding not possible so I upgraded a level in commuter... now I'm on the verge of being broke again...

Did the same thing on my truck though, changed the plug wires and the runability improved a lot, still has odd hot restart issues though...

 

[Mark_88]

Hmmm...that's what gets me...once it warms up it will start first crack every time...just idled like crap since I couldn't adjust it...I might have the timing advanced through the dizzy a bit too much but that was done to keep it running...

Wondering if I should turn it back a bit and adjust the idle again...not sure how that actually works in terms of taking power away...

When I turn the dizzy back (clockwise), that should put the spark closer to the end of the compression stroke...should it not?

Is it better to have it spark just before TDC or exactly on it?