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Farm and Garden


Is the oiler working on the big one? Same type of chain? Same sharpening tools/procedure? Have you tried swearing at it?
 
Longer bar have the anti kick back tab in front of the teeth?

ones without that tend to cut faster and wear faster. You typically see them on longer bars.
 
I have a question if I may. Why is it that my Stihl MS193T can cut up a chord or two worth of splitting before needing sharpening, regardless is a 12", 14" or 16" chain/bar....Yet my Stihl MS661C can't make more than two cuts before getting dull running a 25" chain/bar?

Im cutting pine, oak and eucalyptus.
It might have something to do with the quatlity of the chains. Maybe one can't hold its edges.

I rented a chain saw once. It got as dull as a butter knife knife in a New York minute
 
I have a question if I may. Why is it that my Stihl MS193T can cut up a chord or two worth of splitting before needing sharpening, regardless is a 12", 14" or 16" chain/bar....Yet my Stihl MS661C can't make more than two cuts before getting dull running a 25" chain/bar?

Im cutting pine, oak and eucalyptus.

Have you tried a different chain? It could be a defect with that particular chain.
 
Thanks for replies...makes sense.

I rolled the dice and tried my local Ace hardware. They actually had a 25" stihl chain. Hopefully it helps. I got some 18" + rounds of dead oak to slice up for firewood splitting.
 
And yes, deciduous trees have less resin than softer evergreens which overheats the teeth on the chain and and make it lose temper.
 
And yes, deciduous trees have less resin than softer evergreens which overheats the teeth on the chain and and make it lose temper.

You can overheat them when sharpening.

Also the rakers need checked and lowered as needed as the chain is sharpened too.
 
You can overheat them when sharpening.

Also the rakers need checked and lowered as needed as the chain is sharpened too.
Perhaps. I used a machine, that sets the pitch at the correct angle and sharpened each tooth in just a second or two. A little bluing might be okay, but too much might indicate that they have been burned. I don't remember all that much. It's been decades since I last serviced chainsaws.
 
Here's some tips that might help.


The suggestion about the rakers is a good one too. I hand file my chains, so heat from sharpening is not an issue. And I have a flat file and gauge specifically for dressing the rakers.

Lastly, make sure the bar groove and oiler holes are clear. If the chain can't get lubricated properly and can't ride the groove properly, it's going to heat up as well.
 
Here's some tips that might help.


The suggestion about the rakers is a good one too. I hand file my chains, so heat from sharpening is not an issue. And I have a flat file and gauge specifically for dressing the rakers.

Lastly, make sure the bar groove and oiler holes are clear. If the chain can't get lubricated properly and can't ride the groove properly, it's going to heat up as well.
Chances are the file is the problem
 
You can overheat them when sharpening.

Also the rakers need checked and lowered as needed as the chain is sharpened too.
I sharpen by hand using the stihl idiot proof sharpener that has the files in a plastic jig. It works surprisingly great.

Unfortunately the local mom and pop Toro mower shop closed down. The owner passed and the wife was a nutcase...

So yea I used to get en sharpened there but on my own for now. The stihl jig dealy works great.
 
The fresh chain is way shaper than what was on there before, even after sharpening. It got dark, so I will try it tomorrow.
 
It got dark, so I will try it tomorrow.

You don't need light to chainsaw . . . what could possibly go wrong?

Seriously, though, sounds like it was simply time for a new chain, so it's money well spent.

I sharpen my own chains, and it seems that they reach a point eventually where they just don't hold a sharpening for very long. I think, that the temper only goes so deep on the cutting teeth.
 

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