Or loosen ur motor mounts and lift motor a little and push tranny to passenger side. Then re tighten motor mounts. Ul get the clearnce u need on the uoke side
My setup is still under truck but i didnt want oil runnin down my radiator support. This way its still easy to change oil and il be building a skid plate for filter just aint got to it yet
I'm using mustang motor mounts and I'm nut ache to slide anything over, did that when installing everything. Not running a body lift and I have everything as high as I can go before hitting the floor boards. Also my exhaust for my passenger side is in close tolerance to the frame so I can't shove stuff over any further. My plans are to instead cut the part thats on my way out and make it so that it goes up and attaches to the floor board via bolts and rubber mounting and proper reinforcing to the floor. That way no amount of flex well make the shaft hit any crossmembers.
My truck was done in pitch time so that's why stuff looks rigged up, but things will be redone and smoothed over next year.
My set-up hands much lower then yours. Maybe I do need to consider a small body lift to help tuck things up better.
You have a lot more clearance between your FEAD and rad then I do. This is after I repositioned my fan better cooling and to keep the water pump from making contact with the fan motor.
Here's the driveshaft contact with the crossmember issue.
The main thing with ur driveline is mine is smaller pipe. Urs looks to be 4 in around. Mine is definately smaller diameter pipe. Replacing ur body bushings will help some. But a small 2 in lift will help alot.
Ive never seen rubber bushings on crossmember like that. If u go with body lift and body bushings ul be able to lift that crossmember and fit it between ur actual truck frame
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