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Failed smog :(


Tonight I inspected my plugs. All 6 look good. Autolite copper. Here is a sample:
66595


Oxygen sensors have been swapped. This is the old one. I know you can't tell if one is good or not by looking at it, but it looks good. I will say after swapping them, the exhaust does smell a little better. Maybe that's placebo but I THINK it is a little cleaner.
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EGR Solenoid #3 installed. Ran KOER and got a 33 (EGR not opening). So I took the vacuum line off the EGR valve, put my vacuum gauge on it the line, reset the truck, and re-ran KOER. Got a 33 AND no vacuum signal.

@RonD I didn't see your second post until just now. I will try tomorrow.
 
Spark plug tips look OK

Yes, issue with O2 sensors is they run out of the internal coating to detect Oxygen, can't tell that by looks
 
gggrrrr.... This is frustrating.

Solenoid #3 (the second new one) has 43 ohms across the coil. Check.
Put a 9v battery across it and nothing happens. No click, no change in vacuum going through it. I tapped the solenoid on my desk a couple times thinking maybe it was stuck but that did not change anything. I can use my test leads and put 12v across it but I am worried that would fry the coil. Am I looking at getting solenoid #4?

Related question: Is this just a vacuum can?
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It should work with 9v battery, but sure, try 12v power supply or battery, there is no polarity


Not sure what that is, doesn't look like a vacuum reservoir but could be, reservoirs are just an air tight hollow chamber
 
Went and bought Solenoid #4, this time different store, different brand. 43 ohms across the coil. 9Vs on the coil and it does nothing. Plug it into my truck, run KOEO and I get an 81 (EGR control solenoid circuit failure). I pull the connector and I have 12.4V on one pin, and 0V on the other. The second pin (0v) has 4.3M ohms to ground, blip the throttle and it goes to 3.95M ohms.

Start the truck, run KOER and I get a 33 (EGR Valve not opening). I pulled the vacuum connector and there is 17'ish inches of mercury into the solenoid. Nothing coming out. I put a vacuum gauge on the EGR side of the vacuum line, put 15 inches of mercury into the vacuum line and it holds solid so no leak. I put my vacuum pump on the EGR valve, truck stalls, and the valve hold 15 inches of mercury. This circuit is kicking the :poop: out of me.

I guess I chase the wire from the solenoid to the computer and make it is not shorted? EVTM shows that line goes to pin 52 on the ECM. I guess I will pull the ECM connector and make sure when the key is on, there is 12V there? What else should I do?
 
Ground a Jumper wire

Start engine
Ground the NOT RED wire(not 12v) with jumper wire at solenoid, solenoid should "click", and valve opens and applies full engine vacuum to the EGR valve so engine stalls

This will confirm you have enough AMPs(0.6amps) on the 12v red wire to activate solenoid
You can do the same with just Key on, solenoid should "click" when grounded

12v key on---------(red wire)----------solenoid-------------(ground this wire)-------------pin 52 on computer


PS, I think your 9v battery is dead, lol, 9v is plenty to activate any 12volt solenoid

PSS, you can use a sewing needle to pierce any wires insulation to test its voltage OR to ground it, won't hurt the wire at all
 
Awesome. That worked! First time I did it, I heard the truck almost stall. I pulled the vacuum signal to the EGR, put a vacuum gauge on and got 10 inches of mercury. So that leaves the wire from the solenoid, to pin 52, the ECM, and ECM grounds.

I will also check from pin 60 to ground, pin 49 to ground, pin 20 to ground, and pin 46 to ground. Any others?
 
20, 40 and 60 are the 3 grounds for computer, typo on 49?
 
Currently, my '92 Ranger has not been registered since I moved some 2.5 years ago. I parked it in my side yard as it needed to have its intake manifold gasket replaced as was blowing out antifreeze. I could not R&R the gasket at the time. Now, after reading the current CA DMV requirements, it seem that I may need to R&R my otherwise well running 4.0 L V6/auto with a more current 2010-2013 engine to be smog compliant, if I understand the CA DMV current requirement.
I also would like to retain my current auto trans as it has always performed well.

Would like some informed suggestions as to what is practical and/or possible please.

Cheers.

92 Ranger
 
I never had much luck with Seafoam injector cleaner. However, BG-44K really works well with my '02 3.0L Ranger.
 
Currently, my '92 Ranger has not been registered since I moved some 2.5 years ago. I parked it in my side yard as it needed to have its intake manifold gasket replaced as was blowing out antifreeze. I could not R&R the gasket at the time. Now, after reading the current CA DMV requirements, it seem that I may need to R&R my otherwise well running 4.0 L V6/auto with a more current 2010-2013 engine to be smog compliant, if I understand the CA DMV current requirement.
I also would like to retain my current auto trans as it has always performed well.

Would like some informed suggestions as to what is practical and/or possible please.

Cheers.

92 Ranger

Welcome to TRS :)

You should start your own thread/post, what you are doing by posting YOUR question in someone else thread is called "high jacking"
Its like interrupting a "real time" conversation as far as forum etiquette
Not a big deal, but no one will answer your question, it will be ignored, so if you want help then you should start you own thread

Go here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?forums/general-discussions.2/
That's the "General discussions" section

Just above the latest thread you will see "thread title" in light grey, Click there and put in a title, like 1992 Ranger smog help, or whatever you like as a title
A new area will open up below that, where you can post your question, just copy & paste what you have above
 
Last edited:
20, 40 and 60 are the 3 grounds for computer, typo on 49?
Nah. I just mis-read the EVTM. I will check these tomorrow. I needed a pinout printed and did not have one last night.
Currently, my '92 Ranger has not been registered since I moved some 2.5 years ago. I parked it in my side yard as it needed to have its intake manifold gasket replaced as was blowing out antifreeze. I could not R&R the gasket at the time. Now, after reading the current CA DMV requirements, it seem that I may need to R&R my otherwise well running 4.0 L V6/auto with a more current 2010-2013 engine to be smog compliant, if I understand the CA DMV current requirement.
I also would like to retain my current auto trans as it has always performed well.

Would like some informed suggestions as to what is practical and/or possible please.

Cheers.

92 Ranger
I have fought to get swapped engines and stock engines through CA smog (Ranger and non-Ranger). It is almost ALWAYS easier/cheaper to get a stock engine through smog comparted to a new engine. This thread is more targeted straight at my specific issues. Some good reading on engine swaps and smog here
I never had much luck with Seafoam injector cleaner. However, BG-44K really works well with my '02 3.0L Ranger.
Copy. I am not a huge SeaFoam fan either. I used it recently because it was free but I think there are better products out there for the same or slightly less cost.
Welcome to TRS :)

You should start your own thread/post, what you are doing by posting YOUR question in someone else thread is called "high jacking"
Its like interrupting a "real time" conversation as far as forum etiquette
Not a big deal, but no one will answer your question, it will be ignored, so if you want help then you should start you own thread

Go here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?forums/general-discussions.2/
That's the "General discussions" section

Just above the latest thread you will see "thread title" in light grey, Click there and put in a title, like 1992 Ranger smog help, or whatever you like as a title
A new area will open up below that, where you can post your question, just copy & paste what you have above
That is one of the kindest messages I have ever read! Well said, @RonD! Welcome to therangerstation, 92 ranger! Glad you are here, too! If I was a little close to your zip code, I would buy you a beer/coffee/other and say hello! Looking forward to seeing your other post and contributing!
 
My preference is Berryman's B-12. It has some potent stuff in it, such as MEK, Methanol, Acetone, Toluene and Naptha. Below is a Berryman/Seafoam comparison. I'll stick with Berryman's.

Berryman's/Seafoam comparison

Seafoam appears to be just Naptha. Marvel Mystery Oil also has Naptha in it. I use that to the tune of several one gallon bottles per year, in all my vehicles.
 
Pins 20, 40, and 60 are all less than one home to ground. I measured pin 52 to ground and it showed open. Then I grounded The yellow wire at the connector, and measured from the computer pin 52. I showed a ground. The wire is good. I plug the solenoid back in and turned on the truck and I have battery voltage at pin 52. Sounds to me like my computer has issues. I noticed a “Reman” sticker on it. I will pull it out and inspect.
 
Pulled the computer and opened it up. Nothing looks amiss in here. All the caps look good (none swollen or leaking), I don't see anything that looks charred or burnt but it is dusty and there is a little tiny bit of de-lamination with the protective coating in certain places. No burn/Hot smells, either.
66720
66721

I did notice on the computer, near pin 52, there is a mark, like someone else has been in here...
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Another thing I am wondering, when I run this part number, it shows it is a Cardone remanufactured ECM for 1986 Ranger with Manual transmission, CA emissions, and part number E6TF-DA, FA, MA, MB, MC. I think my truck DOES NOT have CA emissions and the part number starts with E6PF-MR.
66723

If I had CA emissions, I assume this tag would either say "Conforms to U.S. EPA and State Of California Regulations..." Or "Conforms to State Of California Regulations..." Right?
66724

Should I order a new computer but get one for Federal Emissions instead of CA emissions?
 

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