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F150 rear wheel bearings?


I saw that on “junkyard wars” years ago. I just use a small hand pump, can find them with boating supplies (for filling outboard gearcases). If theres enough clearance you could also pull the abs sensor out of the top of the differential. (if set up that way). I bought a summit 8.8 girdle cover years ago for my 93 that has drain/fill plugs, still have it, put original cover back on before I sold that truck.
I guess i never really put alot of thought into filling them. A old piece of hose around the plastic nozzle and alot of paitence has always been my protocol. Although rear ends are one thing ive rarely ever had to screw with. I only had one that gave me constant issues and that was my 83 F150 that had an 8.8. I think it had a 9 from the factory as it had 4.10s but the door tag said it was a 3.08. 3.08s with a 300 and a T18 4 speed woulda been much nicer to cruise in....that truck got about 8mpg and topped out just shy of 70.

Sumbitch would pull a house over though.
 
Oh, crap. Well, I ordered repair bearing/seal assemblies that would move the bearing to a different area on the shaft journal. But upon seeing this, I don't think I trust it. The seal has started making a groove just over 0.001" deep. I can feel it. That's right where the new bearing rides. Inoffensive to the junk yard to scavenge a new shaft. Only 21 F150's to choose from in their inventory.

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I got some practice doing that job. 4th shaft I pulled looks usable.
 
that many bad shafts says either a tonnage of miles or oil not quite heavy enough, maybe even not quite enough hardness of the metal- maybe all of the above.
 
that many bad shafts says either a tonnage of miles or oil not quite heavy enough, maybe even not quite enough hardness of the metal- maybe all of the above.
Most had digital odometer. So I didn't know the mileage. The one I bought came from a 97 with 186k miles. That was the oldest I looked at. 2 of the ones I opened, including the one I bought, the oil came out very clean looking as if it had been recently changed.
 
Filled the diff, torqued the lug nuts and took her off the jack stands yesterday. Starter motor was sluggish after sitting for 4 days. I think the battery is on it's way out. I had left the lights on and discharged it bad a few weeks ago. I'll troubleshoot it. But pretty sure it's time for a new battery.

On the other hand, truck rides nice now and is quiet with the new bearings. I can turn the radio back down. :yahoo:
 
easiest way I found to get the gear oil into the differential. As opposed to trying to pour in in from the bottle and spilling most of it on my head.
The compressed air pushed the oil up the hose and out the bottle into the diff. Set you air regulator to like 5-10psi.
That's pretty good....but more impressive is the drawing.
 
Filled the diff, torqued the lug nuts and took her off the jack stands yesterday. Starter motor was sluggish after sitting for 4 days. I think the battery is on it's way out. I had left the lights on and discharged it bad a few weeks ago. I'll troubleshoot it. But pretty sure it's time for a new battery.

On the other hand, truck rides nice now and is quiet with the new bearings. I can turn the radio back down. :yahoo:

Yep! Slow crank is a warning that you are fixin’ to get stranded somewhere. Usually at the worst time, in worst weather, and with least amount of accessibility to your tools and equipment.
 
I remember someone here saying one time they just fill a ziplock with gear oil and shove it in the pumpkin, bolt the cover back on and let the gears do the rest. It was years ago not even sure if they are still here or who it was

Slightly less weird... last time I opened a diff I bought gear oil by the pouch. Blows a bottle away.

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I did like the pouches a lot. Much easier to work with than the bottles.
 
I used the pouches this time. Made a mess. But it was much easier and faster.
 

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