F-250 Ttb

[Ozwynn]

anybody know the length of the F-250's TTB wheel to wheel.

any upgrades for the D50?

Anything need to be clearenced?

 

[rangerwreck]

Damn, I have all the measurements on my other computer... but that means I gotta plug it in. I need to measure up my flatdeck later today, so (if I remember) I'll get some measurements of the front end. I'm curious as well for a possible cut and turn project.

Keep in mind that many many many F-250s have the Dana 44 HD, and not the Dana 50. The length of the beams will be the same, but with smaller spindles, shafts, and differential. Nice thing about the Dana 50 is that everything after the knuckle is all Dana 60 stuff. Spindle, bearings, hub, lockouts. The diff, u-joints, and shafts are just a hair smaller than Dana 60.

If I recall the two beams are near equal (or equal) in length. Unlike the coil sprung TTB versions (TTB 28, 35, 44).

Some guys just take the two TTB beams and weld them together forming a "solid axle". A guy on PBB used a Dana 60 rear end, and cobbled some Dana 50 knuckles onto it. He pretty much had a Dana 60 front axle when he was done--with cheap commodity parts!

I've got a 8600lb GVW with a diesel up front, and I still only got the Dana 44.

 

[hitech_hick]

Damn, I have all the measurements on my other computer... but that means I gotta plug it in. I need to measure up my flatdeck later today, so (if I remember) I'll get some measurements of the front end. I'm curious as well for a possible cut and turn project.

Keep in mind that many many many F-250s have the Dana 44 HD, and not the Dana 50. The length of the beams will be the same, but with smaller spindles, shafts, and differential. Nice thing about the Dana 50 is that everything after the knuckle is all Dana 60 stuff. Spindle, bearings, hub, lockouts. The diff, u-joints, and shafts are just a hair smaller than Dana 60.

You are still stuck with the Dana 50 ring and pinion and limited on differential choices.

If I recall the two beams are near equal (or equal) in length. Unlike the coil sprung TTB versions (TTB 28, 35, 44).

Some guys just take the two TTB beams and weld them together forming a "solid axle".

Talk about a boat anchor, and it still won't have the strength of a true solid axle.

A guy on PBB used a Dana 60 rear end, and cobbled some Dana 50 knuckles onto it. He pretty much had a Dana 60 front axle when he was done--with cheap commodity parts!

Interesting idea, sounds like a lot of work though for a LP Dana 60

I've got a 8600lb GVW with a diesel up front, and I still only got the Dana 44.

That's alot of weight on a Dana 44, but since you are still running it I have to assume that you haven't had any problems with it.



hick

 

[Ozwynn]

Bronco graveyard has all the gearing options I would want (3.73's 4.10's, 4.30's, 4.56's, 4.89's, 5.13's, and 5.38's).

another question I have is can either a ford 9" or a D60 carrier be substituted for the 50's carrier in order to get 35 spline shafts?

 

[rangerwreck]

hitech, all that aside.... you can throw a rock and hit an F-250 ttb! Easy way to get a strong enough axle for a Ranger, probably without spending a dime.

Some people here would rather have a free Dana 50, than a Dana 60 that cost 1000 bucks.

 

[hitech_hick]

hitech, all that aside.... you can throw a rock and hit an F-250 ttb! Easy way to get a strong enough axle for a Ranger, probably without spending a dime.

Some people here would rather have a free Dana 50, than a Dana 60 that cost 1000 bucks.

True, although as I start pulling pieces together for my SAS project, I have found that my Dana 60's are the cheapest part.


hick

 

[projectnitemare]

I've beat the TTB 50 idea to death for my truck. The only thing I came up with is: pointless to install. This axle is set up to leaf springs to begin with and beams will require some modification as well as a new crossmember to mount the brackets to. Yes from the knuckles out it is all Dana 60 but a Dana 50 never breaks there. It's usually at the big neck down where you go the the diff. If you want to do it, use the sterling 10.5 rear because it like the D50 is limited to 5.38 gears. That's the only crappy point of that rear axle. Yes it is possible to build this decently cheap but there is a lot of time, testing and fab involved for a limited axle. I came to the conclusion if I'm going to invest that kind of time I may as well make it worth it. Maybe spend a few hundered more but I'll save that amount and maybe more in the parts I won't be breaking.

Matt

 

[Ozwynn]

no 10.5" sterling front axles. I didn't ask if it was better than a straight axle. I am not going any lower than 4.56 for 35's, I can double the xfercase. I need a cheap axle that is a dime a dozen with a 9" ring gear. a D50 will be plenty strong for what I need and they are a dime a dozen.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

As I recall both your rigs are solid front already, would it be better to stick in one that isn't quite as cheap that breaks less often and requires alot less fab? An old one ton with a blown tranny isn't too hard to come by around here and isn't worth much more than a single D60 on its own, plus you get the rear with it as well. My dad got a 2wd 81 Chevy Camper Special that ran perfect with a 14 bolt floater and a limited slip rear (that worked well on pavement when the floodrajet was in the mood ) for $300 a couple years ago. Most times vehicles are worth alot more in pieces than whole. Just my .02 and what I would check into if I had a rig bigger than a RBV begging for an axle swap.

Our D50 in our F-350 has been tougher than tough, but it seams like a step in the wrong direction to try to cram it into a place it that it wasn't intended for.

 

[Ozwynn]

um yeah, I get that, I am not asking if it is a goos axle, I just wanted to know the dimensions and if any upgrades were available and the differences between a HD D44TTB.

 

[projectnitemare]

I get your point. Before I meant put a 10.5 in the rear due to it will accept the same ratios. As far as upgrade there are very few. You can do different hubs, any D60 aftermarket hub will work. You can order cromo shafts but they are big bucks. There gears due to 5.38 and I believe a few lockers and limited slips out there but the choices are few. Physically the differences between a D50TTB and HD D44TTB is the beam with the pig, spindles, axles and hubs. The knucles should be the same but don't quote me on that one. We aren't trying to bash you or tell you the TTB 50 is a turd, it has it's place. For the huge amount of work to get it in there and functioning well another choice might be better. I just don't want to see you invest so much time and hate it only to remove it. I commend you keeping with it. I looked into it for a while and decided it wouldn't be strong enough for me.

Matt

 

[Ozwynn]

its going in the back with a skyjacker 6" classII F-250 bracket, I need it to mock up the rear for something else. the plan is to graft a D60 housing into the D50 axle beams. what I am really wondering is if the D50 housing can be made to accept a 9" or a d60 Carrier. I know I would be better off using a D60 from a quadrasteer denali, but I also want 8 lug so I can run 1ton brakes and it takes alot more money to get the handling capabilities from a straight axle that we can already get from the TTB rather in-expensively. I also plan on a D44 TTB in the front..... I think I can get 20"+ of wheel travel out of a D44 from a bronco and I have the parts on hand to convert it to 8 lug (going to swap the 10 bolt front in my suburban for a D60 front). I don't really need or want a rock crawler. I want to go fast over rough terrain and vehicles with 4 wheel independent suspension usually do better for that and the TTB is stronger than SLA.

the D50 should be strong enough because I am going to use a 4.0L and M5ODr1.

 

[PARKINGLOT]

cool...kinda like the "grizz TTB crab" or whatever from "back in the day"

 

[Ozwynn]

whats this?

 

[PARKINGLOT]

it was something like a BII frame, with TTB front and rear, and a festiva (?) body...I'll see if I can find some pics...