Extended radius arm length help

[LucasP]

I have an 85 ranger with a 2.8. I am about to swap a d35 and and 8.8 into it. Its all pretty strait forward, but Im wanting to make some entended radius arms, since I didnt go that route when I bought my lift. I have the fab skills. Its got a 6 inch lift with a 2 inch body and 33's. My problem is I dont know how far I want to extend them. So could some people give me inch lengths on their extended radius arms. And a pic of my truck.

 

[Downey]

do a little searching you will find a ton of threads on them. but most people extend them 15 inches. but search and find some info

 

[Ranger#1]

bring them back to rhe trans cross member i have seen many done that way and i plan on doin the same ans also making one super crossmember for the radius arms and the trans

 

[4x4junkie]

Most people go either 12" over stock, or 15".

12" works good if you are using standalone frame brackets for your arms.
15" works better if you are incorporating the mounts into a custom transmission crossmember.

Not a whole lot in the way of performance difference between them, although if you go too long, you start losing more clearance behind your front tires (there's no real need to go longer than 15" extended).

 

[LucasP]

Thank you gentlemen for the help. I did search but i wanted more specific answers. So if I reuse the stock radius arm brackets, and extend my radius arms 12-15 inches does that move my bracks back to the tranny cross member or do I just move the brackets where they originally were when it was stock? Im just asking cause Im wondering about the sway bar in the stock radius arms. I have the componets for the newer sway bar going around the front, I just havent put it all together.

 

[4x4junkie]

Ditch the behind-the-axle swaybar. The front-mounted setup is much better (although IMO, I'd leave it off entirely if you plan to play offroad a lot).

As for the brackets, I would build up a new set. The stock pieces will end up with quite a bit of downward angle on them after moving them backward on the frame (there might not be enough room for them to fit anyway, not sure).
Another option you might be able to use the RA brackets from a '73-'77 fullsize Ford.

 

[LucasP]

Ditch the behind-the-axle swaybar. The front-mounted setup is much better (although IMO, I'd leave it off entirely if you plan to play offroad a lot).

As for the brackets, I would build up a new set. The stock pieces will end up with quite a bit of downward angle on them after moving them backward on the frame (there might not be enough room for them to fit anyway, not sure).
Another option you might be able to use the RA brackets from a '73-'77 fullsize Ford.

Id like to leave it off, but I drive the truck every day. How much more body roll should I expect if I do leave it off?

 

[97BlackBetty]

As far as body roll is concerned, I dont have a front or rear sway bar and I am not uncomfortable driving or cornering. You just have to use your head and be smart.

 

[LucasP]

Maybe no sway bar is the route I will go then. I dont have a rear sway bar either. I think this is going to all happen this weekend so Im trying to get any possible problems ironed out before I start.

But then again I do have a ranger, so Im sure there will be problems.

 

[4x4junkie]

Bodyroll is not real bad on the TTB suspension (it's much worse with the '98+ SLA IFS). I'd say try running without it for a bit and see how it feels, then toss it in the trash.

 

[Ranger#1]

yea you wont miss it its achully pretty fun to drive lol

 

[PlumCrazy]

I ran a sway bar with my 6 inch lift for a while, but I took it off and noticed almost no difference. If you are running some really soft coils, then you may want to make some quick disconnect pins so you can run the sway bar on the road then pull the pins when you head for the trails. FWIW I extended my arms 13.5 inches and incorporated the mounts into my trans cross member.

-plumcrazy