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Exhaust Leaks: how bad are they and how do you fix them?


Dweano

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
1,075
City
Saskatchewan!
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys. Well...I am pretty sure my truck has an exhaust leak. The exhaust sounds "different" coming from under the hood. I am pretty sure it is located between where my pacesetter header meets up with the downpipe part of the y-pipe...if anyone with headers know what I am trying to say. Its the connection that is around the drivers side framerail. I can try to take a pic. Now I know...pacesetter sucks, headers leak...la la. But I can't put my stock manifolds on now and a bonus is that this leak is not between to header and the header, just between the header and the downpipe.

I also remember that these were weird...they weren't straight flange to flange, they were a kind of ball and socket design...with part of the "ball" part cut out for the exhaust to pass thro. Then it fit into the socket part slightly. I am thinking for a solution I could maybe undo the y pipe (no easy task, those connecting bolts are probably rusted) and get a 3 hole gasket and slip it in between the ball and socket part. It wouldn't be straight, but if I tighten it it should in theory make a seal between the ball and socket part?

That is just my proposed solution...if anyone else has had this problems and fixed it I would much appreciate some help!

Also...how bad are exhaust leaks? Do they kill power and MPG's? Or just sound weird?
 
Not dying from the fumes while parked with the engine running would be the first thing to worry about...
 
WOW, I feel like I could have written this thread! I had the EXACT same problem with my Ranger. I put Heddman headers and y-pipe on my '94 Ranger 4.0L. Same basic design, ball and socket style connectors. Started it up and it leaked like crazy. Had an exhaust shop smoke the exhaust system. Told me it was coming from the header. Not the connection, but from the header itself. Turns out I had a cracked header. I was PISSED.

Called Heddman, they wanted me to take all of the exhaust apart and ship it back so they could send me a new set. Easy for them to say! Mine was painted and already installed in the truck. Exhaust shop welded it up. Better, but still leaking. I am pretty sure it is coming from the ball and socket connections. I am going to take it to an exhaust shop and have them custom make a y-pipe that actually fits.

I'd look into having an exhaust shop smoke your system to see where it is leaking. I'd stark there. Let us know what you find!
 
Here is what I used to seal my headers to the Y-pipe.

exhaust%20band%20clamp.jpg


It's not expensive, it's not hard, it makes it easy to get apart if I ever have to because it holds the pipes together but doesn't crimp them, and the best part, they don't leak.

If those won't work for you (and they probably won't with your ball and socket joint) try exhaust doughnuts. They might help.


As for what's bad about them: DG is right. The biggest concern is asphyxiation from carbon monoxide and dioxide getting into the cab. That concern lessens with a tall (lifted) truck as more air can flow under the vehicle.

It can also mess with fuel economy and running if the leak is upstream of the O2 sensor.
 
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Yup I will be fine, 35's and eight inches of lift. I believe it is before the upstream 02 sensor tho...guess I will have to call in some favours from my sisters mechanic boyfriend. Haha. Exhaust donuts...are they exactly what I am picturing in my head?
 
Typically they won't cause any issues with how the engine runs, possibly but unlikely. I just hate the noise, there's nothing I hate more than an exhaust leak, drives me up the wall.
 
I recently replace the GASKET between pipes since my exhaust leak was there. if its a bad exhaust leak like mine, youll notice the power that your getting robbed of.
That clamp asdm is showing makes me think you got leak on pipe? not at connection to pipe? i got mine fixed for 5.77 for part and 50 to install. Lou's Custom Exhaust is great. Quick and cheap. Plus guy knows ill only come to him for any exhaust work as hes only white shop in town.
 
and pacesetter, ive heard good and bad, for altima they were one of the only headers that wouldnt throw a code. Cattman in CA's were the best but they caused a CEL.
 
Typically they won't cause any issues with how the engine runs, possibly but unlikely. I just hate the noise, there's nothing I hate more than an exhaust leak, drives me up the wall.

I looked at a 98 F-150 for a leak yesterday. It barely ran when you were off the gas because one of the Y-pipe bolts had broken off from rust. Too much fresh air dumping down the exhaust and leaning out that bank so bad it was barely running.


Donut is this bad boy:

x1zt49.jpg
 
Well I am reviving this older thread...the leak is between the header and where it connects to the downpipe/y-pipe thing. By the frame rail (if you have pacesetter headers you can look and see what I am talking about. I think I will end up using the exhaust donut. What size should I use tho? Should it be just as wide as the hole in the ball part of the ball and socket joint? Or a bit bigger in order to seal around it? Do you guys get what I am saying?
 
It needs to not pass over the widest point of the ball and fit into the socket's cup, but not drop the whole way in.
 
Another thing you could do is put a bead of copper silicone around the cut joint.
 
The cut joint? Like the socket part of the ball and socket? Doesn't exhaust get like...hella hot. Haha
 

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