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Engine Replace in 1993 Ford Ranger


jstans

New Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
3
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
If I am swapping the motor in my 1993 Ford Ranger, is there an easy way to get to the top bolts on the transmission or would it be easier to pull the transmission out as well?
 
I'm sure with some finagling you can work it out with the tranny on the back of it. But, its worth taking a half hour and sitting in your engine bay, reaching down and taking out the two top 13mm bolts and separating the both.
 
The easy way - and that is a matter of degree - is with two 12" long (1/2) extensions, a wobble adapter or socket. I may have added a 6" extension too - I broke them loose with a 18" braker bar and had and adapter on my cordless drill to back them out. That puts the socket on the bolt and puts the head of your ratchet back by the rear crossmember. You just snake the extensions over the top of the transmission and the working end near the tailshaft. It's a piece of cake once you get it all plugged together.

Of course an impact wrench works too!
 
Last edited:
What he said ^ but with and impact.
 
I've always used a ratcheting 13mm wrench and shoved my hand down there while standing on one of the tires, seems to work great:D
 
Yes, but you're are 21, not thirty pounds overweight, and don't have arthritis. Gee, I envy you.
 
Getting the engien out with the tranny is possible... But not easy. Last one I pulled that way required the cutting of the header panel.

You can also loosen the motor mounts, pull the tranny crossmember and let the weight of the tranny give you a little extra room as it tilts the engine back.
 
the only thing i got to work was a 3/8 drive breaker bar with a 6point socket for the passenger side top bolt. that was the ticket for not really doing anything with the trans and motor mount- but i do think i had the head off the block by that point too. the breaker bar had the no side play witch is what kept screwing me when using the ratchet and trying to get any turn on the bolt and just a normal socket gave me room to be straight on with the fire wall so close.
 
the only thing i got to work was a 3/8 drive breaker bar with a 6point socket for the passenger side top bolt. that was the ticket for not really doing anything with the trans and motor mount- but i do think i had the head off the block by that point too. the breaker bar had the no side play witch is what kept screwing me when using the ratchet and trying to get any turn on the bolt and just a normal socket gave me room to be straight on with the fire wall so close.

this is where a body lift comes in handy
 

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