engine ping

[huntin_muddin_91]

so got the ranger done few weeks ago been workin kinks out of her. I heard a pinging goin on preety radical one but she was drinkin year old gas ran her bout dry put fresh 87 in still the same thing... ok. threw 92 or 93 in w/ octane boost and dam near knocked it out, except when under slight load goin up a hill w/ just enough throttle to get u there i punch it it goes away let off comes back... Dont get me wrong i like horsepower but not all the time everywere i go, not to mention punching it up hills running high octane gas that will get expensive! I can only hope over time the high octane will resolve to were i can down grade, but wish in one hand and sh*t in the other n see which one fills up faster! Does anyone know a good tank additive or easy / cheaper then 93oct every tank, besides the obvious rebuild route? Thanks ahead for any info!!!

 

[Teddyzee]

Have you checked the timing?

 

[BlackBII]

Higher octane gasoline has more resistance to Detonation/Preignition - Your 'ping'

Pinging can be caused by high compression ratios, high air intake temperature, timing that is too advanced, and lean conditions.

Are there many miles on this motor? I would suspect carbon buildup on the pistons, which increases your compression ratio. Which would be why higher octane 'fixed' it.

But.....

The most likely issue is with your timing. Check it, like previously mentioned.

 

[fordmike1]

Like Teddy said have you checked your timing? If so maybe you should check to see if your balancer has sliped any at all. Is it EFI or carbed? If it is carb'ed then you should have the dist. recurved to make sure that it is set up the right way for your combo. Tell us a little more about your engine and maybe we could give you some better info on how to correct or help you fix it.

 

[JoeyB]

Mine did the same thing when I first got it running. Going up hills under a little load it would ping. It was the timing. A little love and no more pinging. Check your timing like everyone has said.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It sounds like your real close on the timing just back off on the dizzy slow until you dont hear a ping under a load with reg unleaded I imagine you will gain HP too boot when you go heavy on the skinny pedal. Fords like it right on the edge the farthest you can advance it without pinging. Like what was said on the damper it is possible it has shifted time and pressure and if you have a vacuum advance use manifold vacuum and adjust your idle air screws for the highest lean vacuum reading or rpm. Drop the idle speed and adjust the needles until you get the idle you want.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oh yea check to make sure the idle air needles are within 1/2 turn between them count the turns in then back out. Let us know how it comes out

 

[huntin_muddin_91]

sorry took so long to reply guys aint had no time to jump on computer. I got a brand new holly carb out of the box that the needle aint seating on as of just last night!!! But thats another story... I got breaker points distributor Brand new to w/ newer than new condenser and points. Got a 88 302 out of an LTD w/ roughly 89,xxx mi. I considered timing issues briefly bucuase my balancer is junk and had to do the sand-n-chalk w. the lights out to get the time i have now, i will definately try retarding it a smidge but am stuck to the ear henze my har. bal. issue (i plan on changing it someday but not a just getting her on the road push few others that need ironed out) But holly is junk!!! never buy it... out of the box the shit needs adjusted. Dam the cheap sales!!!

 

[huntin_muddin_91]

Oh thanks for the help ill keep ya infomed!

 

[baddad457]

sorry took so long to reply guys aint had no time to jump on computer. I got a brand new holly carb out of the box that the needle aint seating on as of just last night!!! But thats another story... I got breaker points distributor Brand new to w/ newer than new condenser and points. Got a 88 302 out of an LTD w/ roughly 89,xxx mi. I considered timing issues briefly bucuase my balancer is junk and had to do the sand-n-chalk w. the lights out to get the time i have now, i will definately try retarding it a smidge but am stuck to the ear henze my har. bal. issue (i plan on changing it someday but not a just getting her on the road push few others that need ironed out) But holly is junk!!! never buy it... out of the box the shit needs adjusted. Dam the cheap sales!!!

EVERY CARB NEEDS ADJUSTING, NO MATTER WHOSE BOX IT CAME FROM. But if you're that dissatisfied with it, I'll take it off your hands (cheap too) Your problems aren't with the carb, the problems lie with the points ignition. You're sittin there dumb as a rock when it comes to carbs and blaming the Holley carb for your lack of engine prep ? (timing's off & I'll bet the points aren't adjusted properly either)

 

[Terry]

EVERY CARB NEEDS ADJUSTING, NO MATTER WHOSE BOX IT CAME FROM. But if you're that dissatisfied with it, I'll take it off your hands (cheap too) Your problems aren't with the carb, the problems lie with the points ignition. You're sittin there dumb as a rock when it comes to carbs and blaming the Holley carb for your lack of engine prep ? (timing's off & I'll bet the points aren't adjusted properly either)

Thats a little harsh dude. The guy did a V8 swap, and he is down to the small stuff. I would say he did good. You blast a guy for not knowing the "old school" stuff on a motor that for the most part has not been on any car that they worked on. I would be pissed if the carb was not at least close out of the box. How do you know that its points? It could even be a crappy ground?

 

[whisperer]

Timing by ear, (or a knock sensor) is the correct way to set your timing anyway. The Factory decides a "safe" setting on a certain set of parts (compression, distributor, carb or injection etc) and posts that as the timing spec for any particular set up. That number is not the "right" setting, it is the "safe" setting. When someone builds a motor several of those parameters are likely different.
From the point of "lightly pinging under a slight load" There are 2 solutions. The first and easiest is going to be to kick the timing back a touch, about 2 degrees, and it will stop pinging in that situation. The second and correct, but more complicated, is to go to 1 size bigger main jets on the primary side of the Holley. The issue here is that as soon as you step on the throttle the ping goes away because the power valve kicks in and richens the mixture, killing the ping. If it wasn't a mixture issue then it would continue to ping when you step on the throttle in that situation.

BTW, A Holley carb is the best 4bbl carb on the planet (along with BG's etc. which are fancy copys of a Holley DP/DF) There is a reason every winning race engine runs one........

 

[Terry]

Best carb can always be debated. I prefer webbers, but on a V8 or V6 the setup is complex as well as the cost is much more than a Holly. Unless I am doing a period correct resto, I would never run points and injection is better than carb but once again its an issue of cost. Top fuel does not run carbs or points and 4 second quarter in four seconds says alot. Points and carbs did not go by the wayside just because of smog, setup correctly crank trigger and injection cant be beat. I have been teaching myself injection for the last few years. Its complex but well worth it in the long run.

 

[whisperer]

Terry, you are right, Webbers are way cool but even with a proper set-up (which is exausting to say the least) they will make only 2-5 more peak HP and way less HP under the curve. Injection will definitely make more HP under the curve and give the engine better manors but will make no more peak HP then carbs. Many people don't have your experience with injection and get hammered in the set-up and installation. A carb can be bolted on and running in minutes.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

motorcraft/autolite 2 barrel are in my opinion the most dependable and dude ditch the points and go duraspark ignition much better spark with a more accurate advance Just use a TFI coil and the same plugs for the year of the coil no need for a resistor.