- Joined
- Feb 15, 2020
- Messages
- 6,629
- City
- Southern maine
- State - Country
- ME - USA
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Vehicle
- Ford Ranger
- Drive
- 2WD
- Engine
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Drop
- Shackle flip
- Tire Size
- 235/60/15
- My credo
- Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
Most plates are available from places like Summit Racing and Jegs but are designed to be used with carb’d engines. Usually just two flat pieces of steel welded together in a T shape. I have never used one, mostly because the only thing I have with a carb is my lawn tractor. That and you have no real leveling ability.
I have pulled and set a number of engines and done a variety of methods, chain or straps around the exhaust manifolds, intake bolts and chain, heads and chain, strap wrapped all the way around the oil pan, engine leveler, head bolts (heads off of course and used old head bolts). Keep telling myself that I’m going to make up lifting brackets and start fitting them on any engines I pull, but I haven’t got that far.
Engine leveler is by far the nicest though. Need some tilt to line up? Give it a crank and it stays like that until you crank it again. Between that a d a transmission jack it makes life a lot easier. Now if I just had a garage with a concrete floor….
I bought one of the T shaped plates for my LS motor, it replaces the valley cover so it's the length of the engine and has 5 or 6 different holes you can pull from to keep the motor level. Worked like a charm.
This is useless info for this application though I guess.. don't mind me lol.