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Engine lift plate


v-8power

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,660
City
Huntington, In.
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Manual
I have seen these lift plates that bolt to the intake. Just wondering if anyone on here has actually had experience with using one. Do they work, are there special bolts you use? thanks.


I would hate to have it break and drop the engine.:sad:
 
We use them all the time on the race car engines. I personally have pulled engines with them more then 40 times. Never had a problem.

I even made one for the 4.0 OHV. Used it 4 times so far.
 
We use them all the time on the race car engines. I personally have pulled engines with them more then 40 times. Never had a problem.

I even made one for the 4.0 OHV. Used it 4 times so far.

ok. thanks. I think i'm gonna try one putting my engine in this time.
 
A recently picked up an engine leveler. I use that if I'm pulling/installing an engine and trans together.

91089445_L.jpg
 
Shouldn't your engine already have the lift points on it? My 96' 2.3L still has the factory lifting brackets on it. Unless, you have a custom engine in your ride.
 
Shouldn't your engine already have the lift points on it? My 96' 2.3L still has the factory lifting brackets on it. Unless, you have a custom engine in your ride.

I'm putting a rebuilt 302 back in my ranger. I just thought it might be easier to use the lift plates like they do on TV.
 
i use them everyday. never had a problem with them. even picked up iron headed bbc with aluminium intakes without trouble.
 
I have found a cheaper solution than the plates.

I just take 2 intake bolts and run them through a chain to opposite bolt holes at opposite end of the engine.

Works real nice, and is real cheap. Plus you can use the chain for other things.



Or I take two 1200 lb test ratchet straps and tie them off to the exhaust manifolds. That works well too.
 
I usually use the accessory bolt holes in the heads to hook to in the front. Then an intake bolt in the back.

One of these days i wouldn't mind have a engine leveler like Snoranger has.
 
That plate worked like a charm. Wish i would of bought one 20yrs ago. lol
 
Found this old thread. What do these lifting plates look like? and where to buy them?
Most plates are available from places like Summit Racing and Jegs but are designed to be used with carb’d engines. Usually just two flat pieces of steel welded together in a T shape. I have never used one, mostly because the only thing I have with a carb is my lawn tractor. That and you have no real leveling ability.

I have pulled and set a number of engines and done a variety of methods, chain or straps around the exhaust manifolds, intake bolts and chain, heads and chain, strap wrapped all the way around the oil pan, engine leveler, head bolts (heads off of course and used old head bolts). Keep telling myself that I’m going to make up lifting brackets and start fitting them on any engines I pull, but I haven’t got that far.

Engine leveler is by far the nicest though. Need some tilt to line up? Give it a crank and it stays like that until you crank it again. Between that a d a transmission jack it makes life a lot easier. Now if I just had a garage with a concrete floor….
 
I know the T shape bracket probably won't fit the Ranger's 3.0 Vulcan V6. I was hoping for something like this pair:

64203
64204


They look like carefully design to provide balanced lift. Those were from the 2007 Ranger workshop manual for 3.0L. Older 2000-2004 manuals have these single-bolt lifting eyes, which I don't like:

64205


I have a standard garage, opens to a slight uphill, so I chose to lift the engine side-way. I used two 6-feet nylon sling wrapped around the exhausts. At first, it seems good, then I reached the limit of the crane before the oil pan clear the bay, yeah, a forehead banging moment. Several things went against me: 1) the sling slacks are too long, 2) I didn't lower the jack stand as much as possible, 3) I didn't extend the crane neck longer to gain more height.

First thing I did was to lower the truck in small increment while lower the transmission stand. After that, the pan still couldn't clear the fender. Then I removed the pan in mid-air above the engine bay. I also had to remove the oil pickup bolt to turn the pickup 90 degree. That finally cleared the truck.

If I had that pair of lifting brackets, I can adjust length of the chain to the crane, something I couldn't do with the slings.
 
Ive always just used chain and exhaust manifold bolts with washers, one end of chain on forward hole one to rear most, seams to have always worked for the v6s, i4s one exhaust bolt and chain one intake bolt and chain.
 

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