Engine keeps eating crankshaft oil seals

[OilPatch197]

I got a '84 with a 2.8L V6, this is the THRID time I had to replace the oil seal, it lasted a damned 50 miles until it got chewed up, now my front pully does not have any grooves worn into it, and I made SURE the front cover was centered, and made sure the depth of the seal was right(compared to spare motor)

Everything was right, but it only lasted 50 miles, now it's dripin and my seal is chewed! What do I do now?

 

[metalmacguyver]

I would start looking at bearings cause something else is causing this issue.

 

[OilPatch197]

I would start looking at bearings cause something else is causing this issue.

I had suspected that MAYBE my crankshaft is wobbling, or my front crankshaft bearing is worn? But I would think the engine would blow if that was the case, what do you think?

 

[OldJunk]

The shoulder on the crank pulley boss is eating your seal,seen this many times. Locate the next new seal as FAR back in timing cover as you can and still maintain full contact. many times shoulder will be right in the middle of the seal destroying it. the diff. between the shoulder area and area behind it is only .010 to .012 smaller, the seal will seal up and last for good.......Crankshaft pulley..meant harm. balancer pulley.

 

[86ford]

you harmonic balancer could be off balance and be causing the crank to wobble.

86

 

[88ranger2.95sp]

What do I do now?

Drop in a 5.0

Rob

 

[OilPatch197]

Can this be replaced with the front cover installed?

The other times I removed the front cover, radiator and all the acessories, I am so pissed at this engine, I would like to replace it without removal of the front cover.

 

[OldJunk]

Yes, I have done it on the truck, just tight place to work.

 

[OilPatch197]

I guess what I am asking is how do I remove the old seal in the front cover?

Do I basically hammer a chisel thru the outer stamped steel and pry out?

Seems like you need a strong hooked shape tool to get back in there to pry it out.

 

[OldJunk]

Drive a small reg. screwdriver into it (carefully dont damage shaft or housing) then it should tip/ bend enough to get a hold of w/ needlenose pliers. use a large socket or piece of pipe to gently install new seal. should be about 1/4 recessed in housing to avoid shoulder.

 

[OilPatch197]

Thanks OldJunk!

Alright, I'm going to have a "extended vacation" (I work in the auto industry) So I'll do this again.

 

[OldJunk]

Just be careful of shaft and timing cover surfaces, I put a depth guage on my seal and its about .235 below front of timing cover so like I said about 1/4" recessed.

 

[snake]

I usually tap a small, really sharp nail into the seal then thread a wood screw in the hole. Then just use a claw hammer to snatch it out.

As said before, take your time, use a lot of light, and be DAMN careful not to hit the surface on either side with the nail or screw.

 

[OilPatch197]

UPDATE: got the seal removed, I bought one of those "seal pullers" at O'Riley's and it worked GREAT for this application.

After studying the situation, it appears that it is operator error! I measured the seal on the top, bottom and sides. I had about 1/4 of an inch variance, deepest being 1/2". Looking at the seal the lip is folded over INTO the seal on one side, if the seal was installed crooked that would make sense!

So I'll post pictures latter to give you the fruits of your labor.

 

[snake]

Cool beans. Thanks for the update