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Engine Codes - How do I fix?


carguy200550

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
10
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hi I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with the 2.3 and it is giving me these codes (key on, engine off). Can someone point me in the direction I should go to fix it?


539 (O) System shows voltage at PCM pin 10. Is A/C on (it was on)
181 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S
223 (M) Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault
224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit
452 (M) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem

Thanks so much
 
Different codes correspond to different parts of your vehicle. Your local auto parts store or auto shop could tell you which code it is and narrow down what the problem may be.
 
Different codes correspond to different parts of your vehicle. Your local auto parts store or auto shop could tell you which code it is and narrow down what the problem may be.

Yeah I get that, but sometimes codes are misleading and you end up replacing lots of things you didn't have to. So that's why I was hoping some ranger experts could point me in a more specific direction.
 
Ah I see what you're getting at. Yeah some auto shops are dishonest about what really needs to be done. I'm lucky I found one that's very customer friendly.

Sorry, that's about the extent of my knowledge of engine codes. I'm only 17 so maybe someone more experienced will be able to help you out.
 
Not sure if itll help you, but I was getting codes 223 and 224 on my 94 2.3 and it turned out to be a bad ignition control module. It's kind of a pain to remove but autozone will test it for you for free.
 
Not sure if itll help you, but I was getting codes 223 and 224 on my 94 2.3 and it turned out to be a bad ignition control module. It's kind of a pain to remove but autozone will test it for you for free.

Sounds great. This is actually what I suspected. So do I just remove the module and take it over there, or do I leave it in the truck in order to do the test?
 
Hi I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with the 2.3 and it is giving me these codes (key on, engine off). Can someone point me in the direction I should go to fix it?


539 (O) System shows voltage at PCM pin 10. Is A/C on (it was on)
181 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S
223 (M) Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault
224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit
452 (M) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem

Thanks so much


539 just means the A/C was on during the self test, ignore it.

181, 223, and 224 are related. I would suspect the coil itself.

452, you have a bad sensor or a wiring issue. Check for power across the plug of the transmission's speed sensor. If you have 12V, get a new sensor.

Although the M means it is a memory code. The fault wasn't actually present during the test. Clear the codes and see what happens.
 
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You just pull it out and take it down there and theyll plug it up to their fancy machine. I don't know if you have an aftermarket tachometer in your truck but from what I've read and experienced is that a bad icm will cut the tach signal in half. Even if your signal is fine though it might still be worth the trouble to be sure.
 
Ok I replaced the ICM and the check engine light went off. However, my speedometer is still not working.
 
Ok I replaced the ICM and the check engine light went off. However, my speedometer is still not working.

That would roughly be because you have done nothing towards the end of fixing the speedometer issue.

I'm' telling you, check for key-on voltage at the speed sensor plug and then ohm out the sensor itself. you should have either 5 or 12 volts to the sensor, I'm thinking 12, and less than 5 ohms across the sensor. Which ever one is out will tell you which side the problem is on.
 
That would roughly be because you have done nothing towards the end of fixing the speedometer issue.

I'm' telling you, check for key-on voltage at the speed sensor plug and then ohm out the sensor itself. you should have either 5 or 12 volts to the sensor, I'm thinking 12, and less than 5 ohms across the sensor. Which ever one is out will tell you which side the problem is on.

Cool I'll check it out tomorrow.
 
That would roughly be because you have done nothing towards the end of fixing the speedometer issue.

I'm' telling you, check for key-on voltage at the speed sensor plug and then ohm out the sensor itself. you should have either 5 or 12 volts to the sensor, I'm thinking 12, and less than 5 ohms across the sensor. Which ever one is out will tell you which side the problem is on.

Ok I get a 12 volt reading on the wire side and I get no resistance (0 ohms) when touching the two prongs on the actual sensor. I am guessing this means I need a sensor?
 
Ok I am losing confidence that I actually tested the correct sensor. Can someone possibly post a pic of the location? Or describe with a little more detail?
 
Ok I get a 12 volt reading on the wire side and I get no resistance (0 ohms) when touching the two prongs on the actual sensor. I am guessing this means I need a sensor?


Ok, it looks like you need a new sensor. According to the test the sensor resistance should be 190 to 250 Ohms. If you have 0, your sensor is bad.
 
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