Engine Brakes and Frozen Rear?

[godbout.t]

Hello all,

Got some weird issues on my hand with my 04 4.0 4x4.

Firstly, you all are gurus and amazing so thanks in advance.

Problem #1: when traveling at 65-80 on the highway, if i release the gas pedal i feel and hear some kind of humming drag. Almost feels like an engine brake or a friction brakes. Has been going on for months. Drums aren't dragging and do not overheat. Parking brake is not on. It will go away once I am below about 65 on the highway and feel smooth again.

Problem #2: might be related, but after long rides(100+ miles) and letting the ranger sit, it sometimes will not reverse. Like i give it gas, the engine revs but no movement. Then all of a sudden a loud bang in the rear and it moves free. Like the parking brake is on.....but its not.

Thanks again chaps!

 

[Marty'70]

Check u-joints. Maybe one is worn out, possible transmission internal issues also?

Sent from my ASUS_P00J using Tapatalk

 

[Marty'70]

Or possibly one of the diffs are having issues. Jack it up and get all 4 tires off the ground and see if you can feel any resistance. Also best way to check for a loose u-joint with all the axles loose

Sent from my ASUS_P00J using Tapatalk

 

[Craig0320]

I get a vibration around 40. It does it bad at 50 when towing. But my rear end is going out. And yes check u-joints. Make sure you park so there is no pressure on the drive-line and you can move the joint several ways to feel for slack. Sometimes you still have to pull the driveshaft to check u-joint play.

 

[godbout.t]

Yeah I had a feeling it is something going on in that area. Ill check the U joints tonight. Kinda hoping its not the pivot bearings

 

[RonD]

I think both are transmission related

Yes, for sure the Reverse issue, but also the hum in 5th(OD) when decelerating.

Shift into Neutral at 70mph and coast, see if noise is gone.
Also try turning OD off so trans stays in 4th and run up to 70mph and then decelerate and see if there is a noise, so problem with OD if no noise.

U-joint or differential should make the noise decelerating regardless of speed

All automatics run on fluid Pressure, Reverse requires the highest pressure, 150+ psi to engage.
The fluid Pressure comes from the Main pump(front pump) which is driven by the torque converter directly, so has the same RPM as the engine, raising RPMs raises pressure.
Leaking gaskets and seals causes overall pressure loss, and Reverse is effected first.

Products like Trans Fix use chemicals to swell gaskets and seals, which can help increase overall pressure, not a "fix" but can get you a few more miles before valve body replacement or rebuild is done
If you remove the pan and don't find metallic residue then valve body replacement might be all thats needed, for now, if there is metallic bits then rebuild would be needed

 

[godbout.t]

Ok so I think we ruled out tranny.
Noise and humming feeling remained at 70-75 with OD off and popping it into nuetral.

I'm thinking u joints or pinon bearing. Where. Going into reverse it also clunks pretty good and when down shifting for more power on the highway. Another big clunk.

 

[Marty'70]

Ok so I think we ruled out tranny.
Noise and humming feeling remained at 70-75 with OD off and popping it into nuetral.

I'm thinking u joints or pinon bearing. Where. Going into reverse it also clunks pretty good and when down shifting for more power on the highway. Another big clunk.

Haha check the front first. If your luck is like mine, it will always be the hardest one to do as well as the most expensive!

Sent from my ASUS_P00J using Tapatalk

 

[godbout.t]

I'll be checking it within the hour. 90 degree heat. Why not play under a warm truck lol

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

 

[godbout.t]

Ok here are some pics and video. I'm thinking bearings and seals.

There was no horizontal or vertical play in the ujoints. But a crap ton of back lash and clunk. The video is of the front but the rear haa little more clunk and backlash.


Also seals seem a bit leaky.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5b37a62e2ed29/VID_20180630_113344753.mp4

 

[Bgunner]

I believe it is time for that truck to get the axles serviced. Bearings and seal for the carrier and pinion, rear for sure, but this should not fix the reverse issue. On the reverse issue I must agree with RonD that is a trans issue. The clunk you are hearing is the lash between the pinion gear and the ring gear is set wrong most likely due to the bearings warring out, in my experience the pinion bearing is usually the culprit.

Unless you have all the proper tools and have been taught how to set the lash and pre-load on the pinion bearing I highly recommend sending it out to a shop qualified to do it.

 

[godbout.t]

So I'm guessing that is going to be somewhere in the range of $500?

Would it be worth it to get a refurbed rear assembly and swap it?

 

[Denisefwd93]

Find out what's going on the trans ... ain't cheap! Then worry bout the rest.

 

[RonD]

1993 to 2009 rear axle from any Ranger will work to swap in
2010-2012 had rear disc brakes and you can use those with slight changes

They should all have the rear ABS sensor and are the same width

Rear axle problems are not at all "common", so a used axle is a safe bet, but still a "bet"
You will want to match rear axle ratios, but you can upgrade to a Limited Slip axle if you want