Electrical problems with this car of mine...

[OilPatch197]

1993 Buick Regal with a 3.8V6 and a auto tranny.

Okay this is the story, I just replaced the alternator with a new NAPA alternator, drove it a few miles making sure it works, it worked great. So I parked the car and removed my overflow tank and cleaned out the tank, reinstalled tank.

Then I removed the battery cables(to check for corrosion) and when I replaced them, (installed positive first then ground wire) I noticed that the engine compartment light did not light back up.

Now about a week later I came out and noticed I had NO POWER, nothing. So I checked the voltage at the battery, .6 volts.

So I preceded to do a continuity check between the Positive and Negative battery cables at the battery, thinking maybe the battery shorted out...

The Multimeter went, BEEEEEEEP!

I removed battery then rechecked the continuity of the battery....no beep. NOW I check the naked battery cables, yep I got a short!

Now I am thinking, hmm new alternator COULD be bad, so I disconnect the power connector, I still got a short in the wiring.

The Charging system is basically this, I am focusing on the positive side, as somehow it's shorting with ground somewhere.

I disconnected the engine bay light, as I have the hood up, it would be typically on.

The alternator fuseable link, positive battery cable and the fuse block fuseable link all connect at the starter solenoid.

My next step is to remove the wires from the starter solenoid junction, and check for shorts.

Any advice on best practice to find this short?

 

[crusin93]

Using a fault finder is the fastest way, especially if you are diagnosing alone. If your using a light or meter, start by removing one fuse at a time. Between each pull check for draw between the negitive post and negitive cable. If you have a short the light will show a dim illumination. Continue this until you find where the draw is comming from. (When the light no longer comes on you found the circuit) Now you have to find where that circuit goes and inspect each and every wire on that circut. Look for burnt or discolored wiring indicating heat from short. Be patient. It may take a few hours.

 

[OilPatch197]

If your using a light or meter, start by removing one fuse at a time. Between each pull check for draw between the negitive post and negitive cable. If you have a short the light will show a dim illumination. Continue this until you find where the draw is comming from. (When the light no longer comes on you found the circuit) Now you have to find where that circuit goes and inspect each and every wire on that circut. Look for burnt or discolored wiring indicating heat from short. Be patient. It may take a few hours.

I got out the light tester, and it DOES light up, even after I removed/replaced all of the fuses.

Yeah.. I hooked up a amp meter, the drain is 2 amps.

I'm going to disconnect the wires at the Starter solenoid and hook each one individually, it has three wires, the battery cable, the alternator wire, and the fuse block main line.

I've noticed that the alternator wire was wedged between the radiator hose and a metal part on motor, going to check these wires Sunday. It's either in the alternator wire, or the Power distribution wire.