2.3L ('83-'97) Electrical Problem I can't figure out.

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Slot #1 and #2 ???

Its a big truck, electrically, lol

Ford used two types of relays
Micro, seen here: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/micro-automotive-relay-wiring.jpg

And Mini, seen here: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/mini-relay-diode-wiring.jpg

These are the pin/slot numbers you should use for relays as they are common/standard
Ford used 1 to 4 or 5 but it changed all the time, lol, so not at all standard

85 and 86 are often 1 and 2 on Ford diagrams, one needs to be 12v and the other a ground for relay to activate
There is no polarity assigned, either can be 12v and the other the ground, but must be both to activate relay

Many Ford(GM) relays are Ground activated, so relay gets 12volt with key on, but the computer or a switch activates the Ground to activate the relay
This reduces the 12volt wiring in a vehicle, so reduces the chances of a short
If a ground wire shorts a device/relay just activates
If a 12v wire shorts a fuse blows(best case) or wires start to smoke and melt(worst case)

Yes, 4 pin fuel pump relay connector, Wire #1 Fuel pump relay control, #2 Power from EEC power relay, #3 Fuel pump output, #4 Ignition fused power (fuel pump fuse). My pins/wires are number 1-4, NOT 86, 86 etc.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Yes, 4 pin fuel pump relay connector, Wire #1 Fuel pump relay control, #2 Power from EEC power relay, #3 Fuel pump output, #4 Ignition fused power (fuel pump fuse). My pins/wires are number 1-4, NOT 86, 86 etc.

It still has the original Green, Ford fuel pump relay on it, thier is no diagram printed on it like an aftermarket relay has.

 

[RonD]

If 85 or 86 does not have 12volts with key on then wire to EEC relay is bad

I understand that Ford labeled them 1 to 4 but that has no meaning except for that year Ranger in most cases
So look at the diagram that matches your pin/slot configuration(mini or micro) above and translate 1 to 4 to 85, 86, 87 and 30

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

If 85 or 86 does not have 12volts with key on then wire to EEC relay is bad

I understand that Ford labeled them 1 to 4 but that has no meaning except for that year Ranger in most cases
So look at the diagram that matches your pin/slot configuration(mini or micro) above and translate 1 to 4 to 85, 86, 87 and 30

Both 1&2 (85&86) are showing 11.55 volts but neither diagram looks like what I have

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Both 1&2 (85&86) are showing 11.55 volts but neither diagram looks like what I have

EasyAutoDiagnostics.Com has pictures of the exact set-up I have. I don't know how to add a link but see if this works, EasyAutoDiagnostics.Com. If you would, please check it out so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

[RonD]

Nothing comes up for Ford 2.3l fuel pump relay

Does this look like what you have?

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/images/articles-100-199/120/121/image_16.jpg

In any case only one should show Battery Voltage with key on, 11.55v is a VERY low battery
You test with relay unplugged from base

On the above link #2 with red wire is 12v from EEC relay and should have 12v with key on
And #1 would be the ground from computer via OBD connector
But they could be reversed, #1 the 12v and #2 the ground, but red wire is the 12v

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Nothing comes up for Ford 2.3l fuel pump relay

Does this look like what you have?

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/images/articles-100-199/120/121/image_16.jpg

In any case only one should show Battery Voltage with key on, 11.55v is a VERY low battery
You test with relay unplugged from base

On the above link #2 with red wire is 12v from EEC relay and should have 12v with key on
And #1 would be the ground from computer via OBD connector
But they could be reversed, #1 the 12v and #2 the ground, but red wire is the 12v

YES...THAT'S IT!!!

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

YES...THAT'S IT!!!

Yes, relay was/is unplugged

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Yes, relay was/is unplugged

Just went out and checked it again, #1 shows 12.14 V with key on, #2 shows 11.84 volts w/key on. I had been using jumper wires so I could reach everything easier but the last test I just used the wires on the multi-meter only, got stronger voltage readings. But still showing power on both 1 and 2.

 

[RonD]

Check 3 and 4 Key OFF, one should have the 12v from a fuse or fusible link(fuel pump power)
With key ON the other one should have 5 to 8 volts thats the out to inertia switch

That's just to make sure 1 and 2 labels are what they should be

And test 2 with key off, and then again with key on

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

#4 has power all the time, key on or key off. KEY OFF #1 shows 0.54V, #2 shows 0.32V. KEY ON both 1 and 2 still showing same volts as before 12.14 and 11.84 respectively.

 

[RonD]

Capacitors in computer is most likely issue, under $5 to fix
Can be 2 or 3 of them

Test voltage on the OBD1 Fuel pump slot, no relay installed key on
This is the slot you jumped to ground to get fuel pump relay to work

So reads like pin 22 on computer has internal voltage when it shouldn't, but grounding it doesn't hurt it, so capacitor is leaking voltage, not isolating circuit inside computer

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Capacitors in computer is most likely issue, under $5 to fix
Can be 2 or 3 of them

Test voltage on the OBD1 Fuel pump slot, no relay installed key on
This is the slot you jumped to ground to get fuel pump relay to work

So reads like pin 22 on computer has internal voltage when it shouldn't, but grounding it doesn't hurt it, so capacitor is leaking voltage, not isolating circuit inside computer

Just got to check it and it shows 12.5V

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Just got to check it and it shows 12.5V

I checked it as you said and it says 12.5V

 

[RonD]

So open up computer and check its capacitors for leaking fluid and corroded connections, it can be pretty obvious, but move each one with finger to make sure its still connected to circuit board