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2.3L ('83-'97) Electrical Problem I can't figure out.


I hate to see you give up but I can understand the exasperation. Been there. I’ve given up myself but never on my own rig only other people’s abused trucks.
Reading back to the start of the thread you started out just saying you were trying to start your truck. Later when you got it started you said it was first time in two years. So what was the beginning of this whole mess. Did you do and engine change or something. Why was it setting. I can’t help but think it’s something simple we missed at the start.
I was cleaning up the engine compartment after I pulled the power steering pump that had been leaking for years (never replaced, always just added more fluid) and dam near everything on the driver side of the eng. comp. was buried under years of oil and dirt. This was right after I bought the trk., I thought it was a cute truck and just wanted to get the truck right so I started cleaning under the hood and replacing parts. I took everything but the engine itself out, everything off the engine, etc., started doing all the work but then I had a series of 8 strokes and had to take a couple of years off. Then when I go to start the truck after getting everything back together I ran in to all this crap. The strokes really messed up my brain and now it's a lot harder to do things, like thinking. I've been trying to figure this mess out all summer now and I'm just now starting to understand how to do the electrical testing. Really hard to read and remember, key word here is remember, but I'm back on it now. I have to take time off from time to time, I work on it but I don't get anywhere 'cause I get confused and pissed off TOO easy and too often and I have to stop for a day or two, or longer if I really get discouraged. I have to take a day off fairly often due to headaches. The truck sat outside for the first year and then inside my garage for the next year, I started working on it this past spring just as soon as it got warm enough. Today I am testing the fuel pump relay and connector to make sure the relay is getting power, and it is. I have a 4 pin relay, not 5, I put my test light on slot #1 (This is the circuit that the ECM is supposed to ground at start up) with it hooked to battery +. I am using the test procedure that I got off of EasyAutoDiagnostics.com, it says that when I crank the engine the test light should come on and stay on the entire time the engine is cranking. When I attach my test light and hook up to the + battery post, I get a dim light, then, when I start cranking the engine the light goes out and stays out. When I stop cranking (turn the key off), the dim light on my test light comes back on. So, according to this test, the computer is not grounding this circuit OR I have a bad PIP sensor which I don't know if I have one or not, or there is an open circuit between the ECM and the fuel pump relay connector. THIS IS THE STUFF THAT THROBBING HEADACHES ARE MADE OF ! I bought a reman. ECM but it made no difference, so it's like RonD told me, "it's something other than the computer or the reman. computer you bought has the same problem as yours." Any thoughts?
 
I’m glad you are back. Sometimes I have to walk away and clear my mind as well. Sorry for your health issues and wish you the best.
Don’t t let it overwhelm you. It’s just a toy to occupy time and keep you busy.
I keep going back to the original post with only lights on the front half of the truck. No fuel pump kicking on. Those type symptoms sure say a power issue. But the only half lights sticks in my head. All the connections , power to ign switch and lights power from ign switch and light switch all reside on the inner fender below the master cylinder. Same side as your greasy power steering. And something about a new ignition switch. I did some changes and rewriting to my rig with those same wires to change ignition type. My truck had been stripped bare for 6 years or so. Putting it back together was a chore. But during the process my ignition switch connection was connected but not completely. I found it when trying to get it to start and I could get power while cranking but not on accessory position. Our rigs are different but I found my connectors would hold together well. ( age) I wrapped a zip tie around it and pulled it together. Trouble went away. You mentioned a new ignition switch. I just feel like the problem is something we skipped past in the start. Like we immediately moved to the fuel pump and jumped it and never went and addressed the first reported symptoms.
 
So looking back to your first post. You have a 90. I have a few rigs but one is a 89. Very similar. Mine is a v6 but the basics are the same. Perhaps we can start from the battery and work our way the the ignition switch and light switch and out from them to the systems they control. Checking the connections below the masters cylinder and around to their appropriate destinations. I gonna read back through the entire thread and come up with a plan.😎
 
I’m glad you are back. Sometimes I have to walk away and clear my mind as well. Sorry for your health issues and wish you the best.
Don’t t let it overwhelm you. It’s just a toy to occupy time and keep you busy.
I keep going back to the original post with only lights on the front half of the truck. No fuel pump kicking on. Those type symptoms sure say a power issue. But the only half lights sticks in my head. All the connections , power to ign switch and lights power from ign switch and light switch all reside on the inner fender below the master cylinder. Same side as your greasy power steering. And something about a new ignition switch. I did some changes and rewriting to my rig with those same wires to change ignition type. My truck had been stripped bare for 6 years or so. Putting it back together was a chore. But during the process my ignition switch connection was connected but not completely. I found it when trying to get it to start and I could get power while cranking but not on accessory position. Our rigs are different but I found my connectors would hold together well. ( age) I wrapped a zip tie around it and pulled it together. Trouble went away. You mentioned a new ignition switch. I just feel like the problem is something we skipped past in the start. Like we immediately moved to the fuel pump and jumped it and never went and addressed the first reported symptoms.
Well, the lighting problem to the back half of truck was just more of my half dead brain not working...I had forgotten to plug the wiring harness back together, as soon as I did all those problems went away. See, that kind of stuff is what I deal with every day. Heck, I'll be working on something, stop and go to the bathroom or get something to drink and when I get back to the truck, I'll start working on something else instead going back to what I was already working on. It's tough trying to get something done with this old brain, but it's the only one I've got, so I do the best I can with what I've got.
 
Well, the lighting problem to the back half of truck was just more of my half dead brain not working...I had forgotten to plug the wiring harness back together, as soon as I did all those problems went away. See, that kind of stuff is what I deal with every day. Heck, I'll be working on something, stop and go to the bathroom or get something to drink and when I get back to the truck, I'll start working on something else instead going back to what I was already working on. It's tough trying to get something done with this old brain, but it's the only one I've got, so I do the best I can with what I've got.
I'm thinking the ign. switch is good. I have power every where I'm supposed to, it cranks right, I have my gauges (except for fuel gauge), I have accessories, radio, heater, lighter, etc., I'm just not getting power to the fuel pump unless I jumper it at the fuel relay connector.
 
So have I got this right. We are now to a point that we need to get the fuel relay to operate the fuel pump normally without jumping it right?
 
Then you made plenty of progress. I’ve got new parts to install on the 89 this morning. Voltage regulator. I will do all the testing you’ve done to the relays on your rig to mine and take pictures along the way. Send them as I go. We can compare results and chase down issues. Take your time. I know I will.
It’s a bit chili up here this morning (snow flurries) Gotta get some fresh hot coffee brewin to take with me to the barn.
 
Oh goody, a new problem, I now seem to have no spark, this crap just keeps getting better and better. I put my original computer back in the truck after the reman. I bought made no difference. I can't spend 200.00 for nothing, I'm trying to get a refund on the ECM I just sent back. I put my original ecm back in and now I seem to have no spark, this crap just keeps getting better and better. I'm gonna check out the no spark issue as soon as it warms up enough today for me to get back at it. I've got to get this truck running 'cause my new landlord wants me out so he can remodel and sell the house. I've got to get past this dam truck and start looking for somewhere to move and I'm gonna need the truck for moving. As for right now I'm gonna go wander around the flea market a little bit and try to get this truck outta my head for a little while anyway. I do appreciate you trying to help. I just wish I had the money to put the truck in the shop and get it fixed, but that's not gonna happen. You have a good one and I'll talk to you a little later today ( I hope). I surely do appreciate you trying to help!!!
 
I really feel bad for you, ABSOLOOT LOONASEA, for the troubles this truck is giving you, and all of the other issues you're having to deal with.

There is another thing you may want to check, even if just ruling it out, and that's the bulkhead connector. I would first make sure that it seems tight, and then disconnect it and make sure that the terminals are not corroded. This is the big round plug on the firewall, and to do this, disconnect the battery and loosen the bolt in the center (8mm socket, I think) and separate the two connectors. Look for green crud, and water or oil contamination.

If needed, clean the terminals with spray contact cleaner, and carefully use a wire brush. Reinstalling center bolt cab be tricky; make sure that doesn't cross-thread, and that connectors are fully seat closed.

That's the only thing I can think of, to add to the suggestions so far. The guys that have been helping you have been right on the money.

Try not to get discouraged, good luck, and best wishes that things will get better.
 
Oh goody, a new problem, I now seem to have no spark, this crap just keeps getting better and better. I put my original computer back in the truck after the reman. I bought made no difference. I can't spend 200.00 for nothing, I'm trying to get a refund on the ECM I just sent back. I put my original ecm back in and now I seem to have no spark, this crap just keeps getting better and better. I'm gonna check out the no spark issue as soon as it warms up enough today for me to get back at it. I've got to get this truck running 'cause my new landlord wants me out so he can remodel and sell the house. I've got to get past this dam truck and start looking for somewhere to move and I'm gonna need the truck for moving. As for right now I'm gonna go wander around the flea market a little bit and try to get this truck outta my head for a little while anyway. I do appreciate you trying to help. I just wish I had the money to put the truck in the shop and get it fixed, but that's not gonna happen. You have a good one and I'll talk to you a little later today ( I hope). I surely do appreciate you trying to help!!!
No spark? How did you come to that conclusion? Check all your connections twice Incase you left something unplugged in your frustration.
Here is two photos of my fuel relay plug. One of each side.
3A6FE9ED-B82B-4513-BBBD-48651F0198FF.jpeg
3AA6B4AB-6258-4777-A219-E55422B5067A.jpeg

The red wire is from the PCM relay and only has power with key on.
The Orange/blue wire is the ground. Comes from the computer into the relay and out of the same relay port to the inertia switch. These two ( red and orange/blue can/may be swapped in position on the plug. But it make no difference
The yellow/green comes from the computer. It activates the relay. It provides voltage for a couple seconds when key is turned on and again when engine is 400 rpms or more. Mine was showing 4v
The black/yellow is battery. It always has battery power key on or off.
So let’s see if yours is functioning the same. Show me pictures of your relay plug and tell me what each one does in relation to key on and off. The computer power can be difficult unless you have someone to turn key on for you.
 
No spark? How did you come to that conclusion? Check all your connections twice Incase you left something unplugged in your frustration.
Here is two photos of my fuel relay plug. One of each side. View attachment 68192View attachment 68193
The red wire is from the PCM relay and only has power with key on.
The Orange/blue wire is the ground. Comes from the computer into the relay and out of the same relay port to the inertia switch. These two ( red and orange/blue can/may be swapped in position on the plug. But it make no difference
The yellow/green comes from the computer. It activates the relay. It provides voltage for a couple seconds when key is turned on and again when engine is 400 rpms or more. Mine was showing 4v
The black/yellow is battery. It always has battery power key on or off.
So let’s see if yours is functioning the same. Show me pictures of your relay plug and tell me what each one does in relation to key on and off. The computer power can be difficult unless you have someone to turn key on for you.
Sorry to be just now getting back to you, I was down all weekend with a monster headache, better today, tolerable, I've got to take my boy to the Vet. here in a few but as soon as I get back I'm gonna test each wire and take notes this time, then I'll get back to you. I haven't tried putting pictures on here yet but I'll give it a shot. I sure appreciate your time and help.
 
Sorry to be just now getting back to you, I was down all weekend with a monster headache, better today, tolerable, I've got to take my boy to the Vet. here in a few but as soon as I get back I'm gonna test each wire and take notes this time, then I'll get back to you. I haven't tried putting pictures on here yet but I'll give it a shot. I sure appreciate your time and help.
I'm figuring no spark 'cause it wouldn't start while I had a jumper wire on it to make the fuel pump run, it's ran each time I've done that, I will check my wires and try it again.
 
No hurry. When you have time and feel up to it is fine with me.
 

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