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electric fan


bergz0

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
471
Age
35
City
nj
Vehicle Year
1993
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
leveling kit
Tire Size
31x10.50x15
should i get rid of my clutch fan for this? will it pay fo itself? i get around 16mpg with my ranger. i also got 4:10 gears in my truck stock tho. get back to me tho guys. its only $130
 
the answer is "no".

the topic has been covered a thousand times. you might try the "search" feature at the top of the page.

electric fans do not improve upon power or economy. on top of that, you will sacrifice cooling system capacity with an e-fan...which may or may not come back to bite you in the ass later.
 
electric fans do not improve upon power or economy. on top of that, you will sacrifice cooling system capacity with an e-fan...which may or may not come back to bite you in the ass later.
If it is setup properly with a fan shroud, it will improve cooling. I have ran the Taurus efan on multiple vehicles without any problems.
 
There is ZERO advantage to an e-fan, and many disadvantages:

1) Lower cooling capacity than the mechanical fan/clutch
2) Poorer reliability than mechanical fan/clutch due to all the parts needed:
a) Electric motor
b) Wiring & connectors
c) Fuses
d) Temp sensor
e) Controller, which has a relay

This is all backed up by this e-fan poll from R-F:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/showthread.php?t=69440&highlight=e-fan+poll
 
Not all controllers have relay's Bob. SPAL controllers do NOT have a relay. Please get your facts straight BEFORE posting crap like this.

As long as you PROPERLY wire an efan, they can be as efficient, if not more efficient, than a mechanical fan. If efan's didn't work, then why do OEM's install them in NEW vehicles? Even Ford mounts efan's in new vehicles; all their front wheel drive vehicles have efans.

More than likely the people who don't like efan's didn't install them properly from the beginning and that is why they failed or overheated their engine; or they didn't properly size their efan when they bought it.
 
Not all controllers have relay's Bob. SPAL controllers do NOT have a relay. Please get your facts straight BEFORE posting crap like this.

As long as you PROPERLY wire an efan, they can be as efficient, if not more efficient, than a mechanical fan. If efan's didn't work, then why do OEM's install them in NEW vehicles? Even Ford mounts efan's in new vehicles; all their front wheel drive vehicles have efans.

More than likely the people who don't like efan's didn't install them properly from the beginning and that is why they failed or overheated their engine; or they didn't properly size their efan when they bought it.


Back this up Maurice!!!

I backed my claims up with a POLL!!!!

The controllers without relays use FETS which are easily damaged from voltage spikes, and are less reliable than relays!!! Brilliant Maurice!!!
 
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Here is SPAL's controller Bob. They have an OPTIONAL relay kit, which is not needed; I never ran a relay when I had one installed on my Ranger and never had a problem with it.
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/tech_sheets/FAN-PWM-V3_ins.pdf

As long as I ran my Taurus efan in my Ranger and never had a cooling problem, that should be proof enough.

I posted pictures for you of my Subaru Legacy which has an engine that sits in the engine bay the correct way (front of engine to front of vehicle) and it has electric fans.


Like I have said, if the efan is sized properly, the controller properly chose, and the wiring done correctly, then someone will NEVER have a problem with the system.
 
Here is SPAL's controller Bob. They have an OPTIONAL relay kit, which is not needed; I never ran a relay when I had one installed on my Ranger and never had a problem with it.
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/tech_sheets/FAN-PWM-V3_ins.pdf

As long as I ran my Taurus efan in my Ranger and never had a cooling problem, that should be proof enough.

I posted pictures for you of my Subaru Legacy which has an engine that sits in the engine bay the correct way (front of engine to front of vehicle) and it has electric fans.


Like I have said, if the efan is sized properly, the controller properly chose, and the wiring done correctly, then someone will NEVER have a problem with the system.


Maurice, the POLL I posted goes totally against what you are saying, and you
have been proven WRONG on TRS trying to justify E-FANS!!!

Matter of fact, even E-fan manufacturers will admit that an E-fan doesn't have the cooling capacity of a mechanical fan/clutch, and recommend against them for primary cooling in heavy towing applications, as can be
seen here:

399918765_VT77R-X2.jpg
 
How many times do I and others have to tell you, THIS IS A RANGER SITE AND THE QUESTION WAS FOR A RANGER, not a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel engine.

You are so one side minded it isn't funny. If you did a little more research, or even tried it yourself like I have, then you will realize that an efan on a RBV isn't a bad thing; if installed and sized properly.

Get over your old self and lighten up a little. I hate to break it to you, but you are NOT always correct.

BTW, how come 700+ horse power CORE and Baja 1000 race trucks use efans if they don't work?
 
If you did a little more research,?


Research? I suggest you do some, because you haven't given ANY REFERENCES, like I have done, to back up what you are saying! But, then again, since you are DEAD WRONG, you probably can't find any!!!!:tease::tease:



And Maurice, you still haven't explained how come all the people that took the E-fan POLL are WRONG, and you are right??????
 
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When is the last time you saw a Ranger tow 12,000#?

I would say that the stress put on a Baja 1000 engine is the same as a street vehicle that see's 100K miles.

If I am dead wrong Bob, how come I have ran efans that were sized and installed properly without any problems?
 
If you did a little more research...

Ok, Maurice, I did a little more research, and all I found was more information
that goes against what you are saying about an e-fan:

Cooling Capacity:

By far, the most common misconception is that the electric fan cools better then the stock. People see the high CFM numbers in the catalogues (for example, the Black Magic is advertised as pulling 2,800 CFM, and the Perma Cool "finger chopper" is advertised at 2,950 CFM) and are impressed. The truth is that no one actually knows the CFM rating of the stock fan. It has simply never been measured by anyone in the aftermarket and listed. All we do know is that it is rated at "a lot", more times than not it will exceed 4000 CFM. And to be honest, who cares how much air the stock fan moves? It is more then adaquate as long as it's clutch and the rest of the cooling system is in good shape. The steeply raked blades of the stock fan move quite a lot of air, even if it turns slower then an aftermarket electric unit. Experience has shown that when in good shape, the stock fan is even easily capable of handling a 400HP engine. How much power do you make?


Efficiency:

Of course, you're not necessarily after better cooling. You've seen those TV commercials or catalogue ads that promise "Up to 17 free HP!" by converting to an electric fan. Well, that's simply not true. There will be a horsepower gain for sure, on the order of 0.5 - 5HP, with 17 H.P. reserved for big V-8s using 40 lb fans at 6000 rpms. But remember that the electric power to run the fan must come from somewhere, and that somewhere is the alternator. Electric fans draw quite a lot of current. Most pull surges of 35A or more to start up, then run at 8A-10A. This puts extra load on the alternator. Ever pedaled a bicycle with a generator powered light? If so, then you will know that as the electrical load on a generator/alternator increases, the generator/alternator becomes harder to turn. Suddenly, all that "free" HP you just freed up is once again being used. This time, though, it is being used to turn the alternator. There is also an inefficiency in the whole system. We are converting mechanical energy, to electrical energy, to mechanical again to run the fan. This very inefficient, much less then just driving the fan directly via the mechanical energy of the rotating shaft

Reliability:

Lastly, there is the question of reliability. The stock clutch fan can have two failure modes: the clutch will fail, or the fan will physically break. The electric fan introduces many more failure points: fuse, all wiring connections, physical failure of the fan, failure of the motor, failure of the thermostat



Since you haven't posted anything to back up what you are saying, I guess you found the same thing!!!!
 
Where did you get that information from Bob? Where is a link to it? I think you made that up yourself.

I have done research, it is called HANDS ON; but you wouldn't know anything about that would ya?
 

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