efan

[mjonesjr]

some of us have invested time and lots of money doing long term experiements with efan setups and have determined there is no advantage save maybe 1 mpg. I tested on several different types of vehicles and kept logs of MPG. I have spent hours on desert highways waiting for rigs to cool down.

Will they work YES, do they work as well as stock NO. Will you have any problems only time will tell.

If you do an efan setup follow a few tips that experience has taught me.

Buy the fan that fits closest to stock size that moves the highest CFM you can find.

enclose your efan in as tight of a surround as possible.

Place your fan on an adjustable Tstat so during the summer or during stressful trips you can have the fans turn on sooner.

If you wheel off road, install an over ride switch to shut it off during water crossings

IF you have any cooling issues fix them first because an efan setup will not solve your problem.

Hope this helps abit

If you have done so much research, post your results. Why would you do so much "research" and not have any written and photo results?

Stop preaching that you have done the research and post the results.

 

[rockwerks]

If you have done so much research, post your results. Why would you do so much "research" and not have any written and photo results?

Stop preaching that you have done the research and post the results.

Most where on my old computer and the write up was on Homestead 6 years ago. I will see what I can drag up. One of the write ups was on NAXJA. they too have lost some archive info. I have emailed my old housemate bakd in AZ to go through all my odl backup CD's for the info. I left everything at my other houae in AZ. I will post up the results when I get them from him

 

[rurouni20xx]

the only advantage i can see from using an efan is underhood space, usually a good choice for rigs with not much room between engine and radiator. i considered one to make space on my truck but deemed it not worth the effort. mechanical fans work fine with the stock cooling system, and efans work fine with a stock system if its designed for it. (personal experience, even my fiances chevy 1500 4.3 v6 and from what ive noticed all newer chevy model trucks up to the 6.0L v8 2500 have efans factory installed.) if i were to do the 4.0 dual core radiator or v8 triple core radiator upgrade i would consider the efan for space, but with the single core radiator the mechanical fan is perfect for the application. it will even fit the dual core 4.0 app, but as aforementioned simply to save space. as for the owner to go install one for the hell of it (whether they want it for mileage, replacement of nonfunctional mechanical, just for looks or extra space) i say go for it, your truck your money you want it you have the coin its yours. if it makes you happy thats what matters, personally my mech fan is working fine and isnt costing me jack to operate or maintain so im staying mechanical. to each their own.

 

[flaminranger]

yeah it is a 351 windsor(smallblock) I wouldn't put a 351 m(bigblock)in a boat except for an anchor.lol
I say do the fan you want mine works fine.
one thing I did notice no one mentioned is location.
rockwerks says he studied e-fans in arizona where it is hot so maybe his research is applicable for arizona but here in washington it doesn't get as hot but we got a lot of hills so who knows?

 

[rockwerks]

yeah it is a 351 windsor(smallblock) I wouldn't put a 351 m(bigblock)in a boat except for an anchor.lol
I say do the fan you want mine works fine.
one thing I did notice no one mentioned is location.
rockwerks says he studied e-fans in arizona where it is hot so maybe his research is applicable for arizona but here in washington it doesn't get as hot but we got a lot of hills so who knows?

Im still looking for even pics.......that was 4 computers ago

One of the biggest issues was crossing I70 across Colorado. I do have to say that Cherokees cooling systems have close tolerances, and easy to upset

I am not sure about these rangers. But I am going to test it all as I mod my Mazda B4000 over the next few months. I like tinkering

 

[rurouni20xx]

ill put it to you like this as far as ranger tolerances. my dad had my 93 4wd 3.0 ranger b4 i did, instead of changing antifreeze he just put in colder thermostats for 10 yrs. i had a 160 degree in the truck and was starting to overheat, i looked in the radiator said no wonder all the rust and gunk. drained the antifreeze (had to pull the lower rad hose the drain was stopped up!!!) and put fresh in, sitting in 102 degree louisiana muggy heat with the heater on full blast idling for 4 hours the needle never moved, heater sukd ballz...(i could piss warmer than the truck was putting out) drove it around for a while no real issues other than not really warming up and partially fouled plugs. put the factory temp thermo in her (i believe its 190/195?) and some new ap764s and she ran like a scalded ape, heater would burn you and blew some shit out the exhaust (YEAHEH!) made my clocked limiter runtime to 109mph down to 23 seconds (from 34) and ran great. overheating a 3.0 is by far fatal (crakd heads...) but after all that and 280k later shes still running good. play with engine temp all you want the ranger cooling system and engines work great, i kno this is the 2.3 forum ( i also own a 92 2.3) the radiator fan setup is very close from my 2.3 manual to the 3.0 auto 4wd, even the fans are close in size. (cant say they are the same havent measured them...) what i have noticed tho in the racing catalogs (esslinger is a good example) for the 2.3 they all offer 5/8 restrictor necks for the thermostat and underdrive pulleys for the water pump. they say its easy to overspeed the water pump and not let the water stay long enuff in the block to transfer the heat, something to keep in mind when your adjusting the system and run into an overheating problem with the 2.3. fluid dynamics go a long way from what i am noticing not just size/amount of airflow or how much coolant you have.

 

[rockwerks]

ill put it to you like this as far as ranger tolerances. my dad had my 93 4wd 3.0 ranger b4 i did, instead of changing antifreeze he just put in colder thermostats for 10 yrs. i had a 160 degree in the truck and was starting to overheat, i looked in the radiator said no wonder all the rust and gunk. drained the antifreeze (had to pull the lower rad hose the drain was stopped up!!!) and put fresh in, sitting in 102 degree louisiana muggy heat with the heater on full blast idling for 4 hours the needle never moved, heater sukd ballz...(i could piss warmer than the truck was putting out) drove it around for a while no real issues other than not really warming up and partially fouled plugs. put the factory temp thermo in her (i believe its 190/195?) and some new ap764s and she ran like a scalded ape, heater would burn you and blew some shit out the exhaust (YEAHEH!) made my clocked limiter runtime to 109mph down to 23 seconds (from 34) and ran great. overheating a 3.0 is by far fatal (crakd heads...) but after all that and 280k later shes still running good. play with engine temp all you want the ranger cooling system and engines work great, i kno this is the 2.3 forum ( i also own a 92 2.3) the radiator fan setup is very close from my 2.3 manual to the 3.0 auto 4wd, even the fans are close in size. (cant say they are the same havent measured them...) what i have noticed tho in the racing catalogs (esslinger is a good example) for the 2.3 they all offer 5/8 restrictor necks for the thermostat and underdrive pulleys for the water pump. they say its easy to overspeed the water pump and not let the water stay long enuff in the block to transfer the heat, something to keep in mind when your adjusting the system and run into an overheating problem with the 2.3. fluid dynamics go a long way from what i am noticing not just size/amount of airflow or how much coolant you have.

Good to hear.........I think I understood all that LOL

 

[Bob Ayers]

what i have noticed tho in the racing catalogs (esslinger is a good example) for the 2.3 they all offer 5/8 restrictor necks for the thermostat and underdrive pulleys for the water pump. they say its easy to overspeed the water pump and not let the water stay long enuff in the block to transfer the heat, something to keep in mind when your adjusting the system and run into an overheating problem with the 2.3. fluid dynamics go a long way from what i am noticing not just size/amount of airflow or how much coolant you have.

I say BS on that theory! If that was true, the thermostat would close!!

 

[rurouni20xx]

I say BS on that theory! If that was true, the thermostat would close!!

granted this is in the same racing catalog that sells racing parts that are capable of extending your redline to 9800rpm...9800 vs 6000 rpm is a big difference in pulley speed by any means. with that much pressure especially from an oversized water pump it may even push the thermostat open, so a water spout restrictor that slows the water down would help. yes the 9800 rpm number is correct look up the specs billet crank capable of 9800rpm, adi crank capable of 8600, crower sportsman rods capable of 8200 rpm (and stronger rods from there) solid lifter cams with cam tower straps and hi pressure valve springs raise valve float tolerance to over 9000rpm. a daily driver will never see this stress or money dumped into it (or so i should hope not) but the possibility is there and the parts aforementioned are prob designed for the much higher performance end motors not our stock or mild mod engines we use in our trucks on a daily basis. as for rockwerks sorry i hav a bad tendency with runons. i had a c average in english class but graduated outdoor power equipment technology at votech with a 3.8 (dam tci ignition systems skrewd my 4.0...) if that shows you where my priorities are...lol

 

[rockwerks]

I say BS on that theory! If that was true, the thermostat would close!!

Bob this is the same as a guy running a 170* stat in a 195* application. the 170* works fine but opens way too soon under normal driving it is fine but under load the 170 stat does not restrict flow at hotter temps at all its wide open at 180* under load this is why the temps ramp up quickly, because the coolant is moving though the system too quickly and does not have a chance to either pick up heat in the motor or dissipate it in the radiator.

The 195 opens later allowing the system to cool better by restricting the flow.

 

[Bob Ayers]

with that much pressure especially from an oversized water pump it may even push the thermostat open

Wrong again! The thermostat opens towards the engine, so water pump pressure would close the thermostat, not open it. However, all cooling systems have a bypass circuit that allows coolant to circulate within the
block, and heater core, so the water pump will not build up that much pressure.

However, one problem a water pump has at extremely high RPMs is called cavitation. This is where the pump vanes are spinning so fast, no coolant is being pumped, but this has nothing to do with too much water pump pressure, or the coolant moving too fast through the block.

 

[Bob Ayers]

Bob this is the same as a guy running a 170* stat in a 195* application. the 170* works fine but opens way too soon under normal driving it is fine but under load the 170 stat does not restrict flow at hotter temps at all its wide open at 180* under load this is why the temps ramp up quickly, because the coolant is moving though the system too quickly and does not have a chance to either pick up heat in the motor or dissipate it in the radiator.

The 195 opens later allowing the system to cool better by restricting the flow.

I don't think the OP is running the RPMs that were being discussed by rurouni20xx. The 170 offers the same obstruction to flow as the 195 when both are open, so I can't see how a 170 would cause overheating. There is a "myth" that running without a thermostat will cause overheating, but I had a discussion a couple years ago with an engineer from Stant (after market thermostat manufacturer), and he said as long as there were no other problems (blocked passages in radiator, etc.) that running without a thermostat should not cause overheating.

 

[Bob Ayers]

I just found a good article on cooling systems:

http://yarchive.net/car/engine_water_restrict.html

 

[rockwerks]

I don't think the OP is running the RPMs that were being discussed by rurouni20xx. The 170 offers the same obstruction to flow as the 195 when both are open, so I can't see how a 170 would cause overheating. There is a "myth" that running without a thermostat will cause overheating, but I had a discussion a couple years ago with an engineer from Stant (after market thermostat manufacturer), and he said as long as there were no other problems (blocked passages in radiator, etc.) that running without a thermostat should not cause overheating.

Well Bob many have proven him wrong. We ran a brand new car back in High School and dodge aspen and did tests in the desert heat it would in a short period of time of driving onthe hills overheat without a tstat. with the correct Tstat the same route would not heat up above normal running temps. This was true with my Cherokee's also normal driving was fine but as soon as the engine was stressed like towing a trailer it would rise quickly and overheat, with the 195 it never over heated. You are attempting to make everything too simple. Cooling systems are simple part that do a complex job. I explained why the 170 and 195 are different as explained to me by a ford engineer at the ford proving grounds in Yucca, AZ many years ago.

 

[rockwerks]

I just found a good article on cooling systems:

http://yarchive.net/car/engine_water_restrict.html

John is not even an auto mechanic but works with light bulbs LOL