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ECM Code Issue


BoomTexan

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2025
Messages
9
City
Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Automatic
Hey yall, my fuel pump went out in my work parking lot this week, have looked at all the possible issues and it may be the ECM. I should probably be getting a new one anyways, the truck had an issue with water getting in the cab, and all the electricals are kinda bad. It has done this before, so I was ready with a second fuel pump, and it's not an issue with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay, which I replaced with a new one. Still will replace the ECM relay just to be sure, but in the chance it doesn't work, I'd like to get an ECM ordered tomorrow so I can fix it this weekend.

Anyways, opened it up and the code is E6PF-12A650-A2A. I can't find this anywhere, and there's only one on eBay for $250. Do yall know of any swaps I could do with a similar model #, or do I have to get the same one exactly? Any help would be appreciated, I'm a broke college student and would really not like to spend half a week's pay on this.

20250730_194729.jpg



Incidentally, this is not the first time or the second time I've had a car break down on me in my work parking lot. I rebuilt my Mazda MX-3's engine in the back lot of my work over the fall.
 
1986
Engine Computer
Ford Ranger E6TF12A650E2A
Crest Truck Parts USA-GA(Cartersville) Request_Quote 1-770-382-1595 / 1-800-424-2065



That's should work and not too far from you. It's where I bought my transfer case. Guy answering the phone was a little odd in person, but they're honest people.

Any 86 2.9 Auto should be a drop in replacement. Here a couple 87 that should get you driving at least:

1987

Engine Computer
Ford Bronco II E7TF-12A650-BH1A, SELL LOCAL
Quality Used Auto Parts USA-GA(Fayetteville) Request_Quote 770-461-8600 / 800-303-4440
1987

Engine Computer
Ford Bronco II ECM,AT,2.9,,E7TF-12A650-BH1A $50
Tallant Bros. Auto Parts USA-GA(Cumming) Request_Quote 770-887-5214

I have no idea why Car-Part.com thinks that the 2wd and 4wd are different. That's a separate module up into the 90's.

Edit: Anybody know why when I copied that from car-part the table was fine on the initial paste then went all wonky after I clicked post?
 
Last edited:
The only real differences in ECMs for these were manual or auto and cali or federal emissions.

After 87 there was no longer EGR or knock sensors, but those computers will work as well.
 
The only real differences in ECMs for these were manual or auto and cali or federal emissions.

After 87 there was no longer EGR or knock sensors, but those computers will work as well.
So just to check, if I were to get even like a 50 pin vs my current 60 pin one, but it was for auto + federal like mine is, it'd work just the same?

Its either this or a carb swap lol
Those A2A designation ones are kinda sketchy on eBay, and nobody offers remans of them.
 
So just to check, if I were to get even like a 50 pin vs my current 60 pin one, but it was for auto + federal like mine is, it'd work just the same?

Its either this or a carb swap lol
Those A2A designation ones are kinda sketchy on eBay, and nobody offers remans of them.
I think all that is out there for the 2.9 is 60 pin.


Unfourantly carb swapping a 2.9 is next to impossible. None of the 2.8 stuff works...tom morana offers the stuff to do it but you might as well say goodbye to not just your right arm but your left nut too.

Just go on rockauto, punch in your year\make\model and get one from them.

Like i said as long as its from a 2.9, cali or federal, manual or auto. Its that simple lol.
 
You didn't like the used route given above? Some of those yards will ship also if you want to search out further on this site www.car-part.com.

Don't count on a reman from Cardone or someone like that being any good.
 
You didn't like the used route given above? Some of those yards will ship also if you want to search out further on this site www.car-part.com.

Don't count on a reman from Cardone or someone like that being any good.
Their open hours are those of my job and I'm about an hour away from there unfortunately. Called around to a few junkyards and got nowhere. Ended up getting one shipped.

Tried manually wiring up the fuel pump hoping that it was just that module that had gone out, but injectors didn't go either, so I think the whole thing is cooked.

Going to be grabbing a new harness and EEC connector as well in the hopes that could be the issue.
 
Are you getting spark? If the ECM doesn't get signals from the distributor, it thinks the engine is not turning and will not activate the fuel pump relay. But the ECM should still prime the pump when the key is first turned on.
 
Are you getting spark? If the ECM doesn't get signals from the distributor, it thinks the engine is not turning and will not activate the fuel pump relay. But the ECM should still prime the pump when the key is first turned on.
I'll check the distributor, but it doesn't prime the pump when the key is turned. In addition to that, I don't think the fuel injectors are opening, because when I have the pump manually hooked up, fuel just sprays out of it. I think the rail is completely pressurized and more fuel just can't fit.
 
What leads you to believe the PCM is bad?
I'm getting a 1.4-2.1V signal across the EEC relay and 0V across the fuel pump relay where the PCM is supposed to be returning a 12V signal to open the relay on both of them. If I drop 12V to the EEC directly across the relay, I still don't get a 12V signal from the fuel pump relay.
 
I'll check the distributor, but it doesn't prime the pump when the key is turned. In addition to that, I don't think the fuel injectors are opening, because when I have the pump manually hooked up, fuel just sprays out of it. I think the rail is completely pressurized and more fuel just can't fit.
It should run through the return line back to the tank.

If your return line is plugged, kinked or whatever thats likely why youre burning up pumps.

Do you have 12v to the pump?
 
It should run through the return line back to the tank.

If your return line is plugged, kinked or whatever thats likely why youre burning up pumps.

Do you have 12v to the pump?
12V to the pump has been tested, but I'm not getting it through the relay. Not burning up pumps, the pump works perfectly fine when I put a 12V lead to the inertia switch. Inertia switch does pass voltage, I've tested all the leads and I'm getting continuity throughout the wiring harness to the pumps, both low and high pressure, right up to the fuel pump relay.

At this point, its either a broken ECM or a bad relay connector. Should be the only two options left.

To recap: with just my key, fuel pumps don't prime or run when engine is turning. When I connect 12V directly to the inertia switch, fuel pumps run. This indicates either a PCM or a connector issue, as I've replaced the relays. When fuel pumps run and engine is cranked, it doesn't fire. Could also be a spark issue with the distributor, but that could be a symptom of a failing ECU or a relay connector that doesn't pass voltage.
 

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