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Eating front pads and rotors


mkinttrim

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Messages
22
City
Colorado/Alaska
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
My sons 99 ranger 4.0 is going thru front pads every 12k and rotors every other year. We are trying to sell this so don't want to put major bucks in it but would like to make it right. Was thinking of replacing master cylinder but is there a valve that regulates pressure to front and rear? When we bled the brakes seemed like we had good pressure at the rears. There is a rather large valve next to the battery anyone know what that is?
Thanks
 
Sticking calipers! Change the calipers cause it sounds like the pistons in the calipers are sticking. Happened on my wife's van. Pissed me off to no end!
 
Changed calipers with napa brand 2 years ago, don't think thats the problem. Have used many different pads from ceramic to the cheapies, all the same.
 
Go for a ride with him and watch his feet. I have had customers with the same issue and they don't realize they are resting their foot on the brake pedal until you point it out to them. The component next to the battery is your ABS unit.
 
Well he's in the army now so that will be hard to do. When I drive it on snow the fronts lock up quick.
 
How the pads are wearing will help determine what's going on.

Are both sides wearing evenly?

Is each pad wearing evenly from one end to the other?

Do the pads and rotors seem to be seeing excessive heat? Discoloration on the rotors? Cracking in the pads?

Then, have you been machining the rotors? new or used....experiencing any pulsation?

Have the pins been lubed with sil glide or brake lube each time?

The master cylinder could be likely, but only most likely if it's been replaced or messed with before. It could actually be adjusted too far and be applying the brakes with no pedal application. Unbolt the MC from the booster and try to push it back in. If you can push it back against the booster without it feeling like the rod is engaging the MC, you are probably ok. Otherwise it could take some adjusting.

Another thing to do is take this thing for a good drive. Get the brakes nice and hot. Jack the front up and spin the wheels separately. Is one significantly harder to turn than the other? Or both hard to turn? Hurry and crack the bleeder open on the caliper. Did it get easier to turn? If so you are looking at a bad brake hose or hoses. No? then those calipers might be sticking again....
 
Sticking calipers! Change the calipers cause it sounds like the pistons in the calipers are sticking. Happened on my wife's van. Pissed me off to no end!

on a 1995-up it is actually more likely to be sticky caliper pins OR rust on the caliper bracket under the stainless steel anti-rattle shims.

IF it's the caliper pins don't even try to fix them, simply find another junkyard caliper bracket.

OTOH if it's rust under the stainless anti-rattle clips chip it off and put a dab of "Ultra" RTV on the underside of the clip while you are reinstalling it
to exclude water from getting between the stainless clip and the iron bracket.


This is all not to say that the problem is NOT a sticky caliper, I'm just suggesting you check for these conditions before buying new calipers and discovering to your unpleasant suprise that the problem is still there after you change out the calipers, bleed the brakes, get frost bitten butt cheeks from sitting in the snow etc.


AD
 
Changed calipers with napa brand 2 years ago, don't think thats the problem. Have used many different pads from ceramic to the cheapies, all the same.

just because you fixed them, doesnt mean you fixed them.


new products arent guarenteed


sounds to me like theres more pressure going to the front. could be a number of things
 
yeah, like screwed up ABS... 'cause if they lock up then the ABS isn't working.... or in reality IS working, just not when you apply the brakes.

the pedal could be adjusted wrong or something where the ABS sensor is seeing the pedal being applied when it's not. it does have like 1000PSI of pressure built up for use...
 
just because you fixed them, doesnt mean you fixed them.


new products arent guarenteed


sounds to me like theres more pressure going to the front. could be a number of things

I doubt if 2 new calipers would fail at the same time, but it is possible I suppose. I jacked up front end and both wheels turns freely, even with engine running. Beginning to think it may be ABS. Definately getting poor fuel mileage. 12-13 mpg taking it very easy.
 
I doubt if 2 new calipers would fail at the same time, but it is possible I suppose. I jacked up front end and both wheels turns freely, even with engine running. Beginning to think it may be ABS. Definately getting poor fuel mileage. 12-13 mpg taking it very easy.

what id do is fill it, pull the abs fuse and drive it for a day. then fill it back up and find out you mpg based on the distance you traveled and the amount of gas you just put in.

now, if its better, abs is the problem.

if its the same, theres a few thing that could cause it. he may drive with two feet, or the caliper may not ba adjusted with the right shims, so when the vacum boost comes on it could rub at different rpm. like the possibilities are endless.
 
ABS or the vacuum booster are not going to cause a dragging brake condition.

A misadjusted M/C, sticking calipers, sticking pins and/or lack of lube on these pins will. These will also cause a pad to wear unevenly or FAST.

Not just blowing smoke up ones ass here.
 
I doubt if 2 new calipers would fail at the same time, but it is possible I suppose. I jacked up front end and both wheels turns freely, even with engine running. Beginning to think it may be ABS. Definately getting poor fuel mileage. 12-13 mpg taking it very easy.
sounds like your pins are good. When my pin started sticking I could barely spin the wheel and my gas mileage dropped drastically. People say replace the pins but screw that. I just remove the pin and put dielectric grease on it. Works good as new.
I have a 2000 2wd and no one sells the right caliber bracket size for that truck.
I've been to NAPA, O'Riellys and a few other p0-dunk places. Even the dealership gave me the wrong one.
 
Could also be that the flex lines are pinching internally...and need to be changed...this will cause the brakes to lock or stick...
 
probable, but not likely.
 

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