E-Fan upgrade to 89 2.9L... Is there an available port on engine, for sensor?

[eightynine4x4]

Might do this upgrade:

https://www.etrailer.com/p-D18916.html

https://www.etrailer.com/p-D16749.html

Here's the instructions for the adjustable thermostat kit..
Installation Details

"Locate a 3/8” NPT port either on the radiator, waterneck,
intake manifold or cylinder heads."

Silly question, but this sender tech works just as well when it's just basic metal to metal contact to the engine, correct? No need to take readings directly from the coolant? Reason I ask is because maybe the port near rear of intake manifold can be used. And maybe some thread adapter if that hole is larger. Would be quite a long lead though, from rear of engine up to fan electronics.

 

[Uncle Gump]

The temp switch needs to be in coolant.

Look at radiator hose coolant switch adaptors. I feel lower hose would be the best spot... but many use the upper hose.

 

[eightynine4x4]

The temp switch needs to be in coolant.

Look at radiator hose coolant switch adaptors. I feel lower hose would be the best spot... but many use the upper hose.

thanks!
Have to ask.. which approach is better? Coolant sender vs contact heat of fins. Seems like they’re two very different sensing techniques and one would be more precise and/or functional.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Which is better...

IMHO... putting the switch or sender in the coolant is better then monitoring a probe pushed through radiator cooling fins that are dependent on heat being transfered to them is more accurate.

I've used the probe through fin type on my V8 swap years ago. It worked but I had high failure rates with the probes. I also felt it was an accident waiting to happen.

It's why I chose hose adaptors ever since unless there was an available spot on the engine.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Which is better...

IMHO... putting the switch or sender in the coolant is better then monitoring a probe pushed through radiator cooling fins that are dependent on heat being transfered to them is more accurate.

I've used the probe through fin type on my V8 swap years ago. It worked but I had high failure rates with the probes. I also felt it was an accident waiting to happen.

It's why I chose hose adaptors ever since unless there was an available spot on the engine.

OK. I'm sold on the threaded sender!

Scoured some resources and landed on this setup:

Summit Racing SUM-381122 Summit Racing™ High Performance Electric Fans | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ High Performance Electric Fans with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fans, Electric at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Painless Performance 30128 Painless Performance Waterproof Electric Fan Relay Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Painless Performance Waterproof Electric Fan Relay Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fan Switches at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

DeWitts Radiator 32-17627 DeWitts Inline Fill Adapters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - DeWitts Inline Fill Adapters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fittings and Adapters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Wanted to get an adjustable thermostat to really dial things in, but i figure 195 FAN ON and 185 FAN OFF should suit things just fine and it should be one less item to go faulty, and the reviews for the Painless kit are far better than the Derale kit anyways.

 

[Uncle Gump]

OK. I'm sold on the threaded sender!

Scoured some resources and landed on this setup:

Summit Racing SUM-381122 Summit Racing™ High Performance Electric Fans | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ High Performance Electric Fans with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fans, Electric at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Painless Performance 30128 Painless Performance Waterproof Electric Fan Relay Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Painless Performance Waterproof Electric Fan Relay Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fan Switches at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

DeWitts Radiator 32-17627 DeWitts Inline Fill Adapters | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - DeWitts Inline Fill Adapters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fittings and Adapters at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Wanted to get an adjustable thermostat to really dial things in, but i figure 195 FAN ON and 185 FAN OFF should suit things just fine and it should be one less item to go faulty, and the reviews for the Painless kit are far better than the Derale kit anyways.

One thing to remember... unless your temp switch has two wires... your hose adaptor needs the have a ground lug. You can see I drilled/tapped mine for one.

 

[RonD]

The radiator hose bung(insert) is best for adding temp switch for e-fan

If using upper rad hose make sure temp switch is located at bottom side of hose, upper rad hose WILL get some air in it at the top, and you want switch to be immersed all the time
Or use lower radiator hose, never has air, well unless there is a catastrophic problem, lol
Be sure to ground the insert

If you have AC many add a relay to activate e-fan when AC is on regardless of coolant temp

In the winter the radiator may not even be used much, which is why e-fan activation is best used based on Radiator coolant temp(hoses) not engine temp
No reason for the fan to be on if engine can barely keep itself warm in cold weather, especially true for 4cyl engines

Mechanical fan clutch is activated by center of the radiator temp, has a bi-metal spring on the front that engages the fan blades as it is warmed up by coolant in the center of the radiator

 

[eightynine4x4]

The radiator hose bung(insert) is best for adding temp switch for e-fan

If using upper rad hose make sure temp switch is located at bottom side of hose, upper rad hose WILL get some air in it at the top, and you want switch to be immersed all the time
Or use lower radiator hose, never has air, well unless there is a catastrophic problem, lol
Be sure to ground the insert

If you have AC many add a relay to activate e-fan when AC is on regardless of coolant temp

In the winter the radiator may not even be used much, which is why e-fan activation is best used based on Radiator coolant temp(hoses) not engine temp
No reason for the fan to be on if engine can barely keep itself warm in cold weather, especially true for 4cyl engines

Mechanical fan clutch is activated by center of the radiator temp, has a bi-metal spring on the front that engages the fan blades as it is warmed up by coolant in the center of the radiator

Ok got it. I'll install in upper radiator hose because my lower hose has super tight proximities to frame, i can see that attempt going very badly. So upper it is, and i'll be sure to install the switch on its under side so that it's always immersed. Great tip!

My A/C is currently disabled (belt removed) and I didn't care much about that last summer so that's pretty low priority. But if i do get it going again, I'll probably add a relay for the fan to always kick on.

In choosing that inline hose adapter above, i'm just assuming my hoses are 38mm / 1.5". Didn't measure yet but will do soon.

One interesting thing I'm looking forward to is just getting the damn temp in normal range. My thermostat has been wide open since owning the truck and the outlet piece has messed up bolts. So i've been slow on getting it out and replacing. Doing that this weekend. Thus, my truck has always run on the cool side, albeit just above the Normal lowest point. I know it's not dangerous but it probably causes extra wear on engine and isn't best for mileage and performance overall. Knowing it was always cool, i deleted the mechanical fan last year and never looked back. The mechanism was stuck on so the fan was always running. Annoying, at the very least. But there are many things i like about the e-fan idea so decided to go with that. First will install the thermostat and run around locally and see how temps look. Really hoping it climbs within a couple minutes of idle after startup. Currently it takes like 15-20 minutes of idle to get there, in the summer, and when i drive it the air just flat drops it within a minute since it's winter. But i've had some mid/high heat readings at times when it made sense, and i've replaced both temp sensors and tested the meter. I know all that is fine. However, i do have one question for y'all....

soo.. "LAMP ON"? I did get the truck, once, to near the top of Normal and it was scary. Pulled over before it got out of control. Where is the "lamp" and when exactly is it supposed to kick on? When it goes above the highest Normal line? Didn't see anything for sure and i was paying hyper close attention.

Anyways, looking forward to it all. I also relocated my TFI last week, and found an immense improvement. Very pleased with that! Will post that in another thread soon...

 

[eightynine4x4]

So I’ve got the water output off and have my first look at the bolt situation behind it.
Are all three of these supposed to be bolts?

On mine.. upper right one was a bolt head that I snapped off a year ago and gave up on this project.
Upper left one is a stud that had a nut on it which came off fine today.
Lower one is a bolt that came out with some patience.

Is upper left one supposed to in fact be a stud?

I’ll leave that be probably since it works, but Im gonna go ahead and start trying to get the upper right carcus of a bolt out.

 

[RonD]

All 3 should be bolts

Although stud(s) would work, bolts are just cheaper for car makers

 

[eightynine4x4]

All 3 should be bolts

Although stud(s) would work

Ok thanks. Yeah I should just not mess with the one that’s a functional stud and add that risk. It is what it is. Once I get the upper right one cleared I’ll be good.

I bought the wrong thermostat. Did so much research and thought Motorcraft RT 1167 (found locally) was same as RT 1161, just minus the gasket, but apparently it’s not. 1167 looks too large.

Back to the drawing board on thermostat homework. Seems like everything on the market is bound to fail, based on buyer reviews.

 

[RonD]

And no "Jiggle valve"

If replacement has no jiggle valve then drill an 1/8 to 1/4" hole in the plate and mount thermostat so hole is at 12:00
Jiggle valve or hole lets the air out that can be trapped behind closed thermostat

When refilling any coolant system pull off one of the heater hoses at the firewall, fill until coolant is coming out of removed hose and heater core, reattach hose, air is out of the engine side of cooling system
Jiggle valve does the same thing but slower, smaller hole than the hose, lol

 

[eightynine4x4]

And no "Jiggle valve"

If replacement has no jiggle valve then drill an 1/8 to 1/4" hole in the plate and mount thermostat so hole is at 12:00
Jiggle valve or hole lets the air out that can be trapped behind closed thermostat

When refilling any coolant system pull off one of the heater hoses at the firewall, fill until coolant is coming out of removed hose and heater core, reattach hose, air is out of the engine side of cooling system
Jiggle valve does the same thing but slower, smaller hole than the hose, lol

Will do!
This one in pic does have a jiggle valve, it’s just a bit hidden in pic.
Hoping the next one I get has one too! If not will perform mod.

Got the stud out. But the bolt carcass is still there. It may turn into a classic re-drill-new-hole-inside-old-bolt situation.

 

[RonD]

I swear by reverse drill bits in reverse-able drills, they vibrate and spin the broken bolts out, while drilling a hole for an EZ-out or ??
Usually the broken bolt comes out while drilling

 

[eightynine4x4]

I swear by reverse drill bits in reverse-able drills, they vibrate and spin the broken bolts out, while drilling a hole for an EZ-out or ??
Usually the broken bolt comes out while drilling

Yeah I’ve got some reverse drill bits. Will give it a shot tomorrow for sure. These are the wild times that test us!!