e-brake

[509lifted]

so i figured out y its such a pain in first and reverse and y im getting crappy mileage, its my ebrake. the pedal releases but the brake doesnt so i was wondering how i could remove my e brake since i have blocks for my tires and i dont need it. TIA

 

[Insanejughead]

Take out the brake bar that sits underneath the wheel cylinder in the drum assembly. Here's what it looks like.

Your problem, most likely, is that the cable inside of the sheath is corroded and rusty. I had the same problem on my '94 until I got new brake cables for each drum. However, until I got the cables, I took out the bar that I show right there.

 

[robertc1024]

You sure its you e-brake? Older Rangers frequently have the pistons in the front calipers sieze up.

 

[Sunk]

You sure its you e-brake? Older Rangers frequently have the pistons in the front calipers sieze up.

This. I've had this happen to more than one truck, one so bad I was barely able to limp it home.

 

[509lifted]

im sure cause i can hear my brakes squeal plus it feels like more of pulling not pushing, and my e brake light stays on and then when it does go off i dont have the brake problem

 

[robertc1024]

You can tell for sure if you drive around a little bit and carefully, carefully touch the wheels. If you've got a dragging brake, it will be hotter than a pistol. My fronts were so hot, they would sizzle water dumped on them.

 

[doorgunner]

jacking the truck off the ground and rotating the wheels by hand will REALLY give you an idea which brake pad/shoe is dragging....you'd be surprised...

 

[509lifted]

its the back left wheel and im assuming thats where the ebrake is right?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

e-brakes control both rear wheels. I'd suspect the cable is seized, the one that is connected to the drum that's dragging, as insane mentioned. Should be a fairly cheap fix or remove or disconnect inside as [again] insane mentions. It would be a good idea to take the brake system apart as there could be something inside loose, jamming things up.

Richard

 

[509lifted]

how long would it take is it something i could do when i get off work cause i usually only have about 2 hours of light left once i get off work and i need my b2 everyday

 

[Insanejughead]

Block the front wheels and jack up your rear axle.
Take off the wheels and then the drums.
Unhook the top two springs from the center pin, and then spread the shoes apart to get the bar out.
Re-hook the two springs exactly as they were after ensuring that the brake pistons are seated in the wheel cylinder and on the shoe.
Put on the drums and then the wheels. (Note: shoes must be contacting the center pin for the drum to fit back on.)

All that mentioned above will take roughly 45 minutes (That's assuming you've never had drum brakes apart before, and that the springs don't give you much fuss.)


To then find out if your e-brake cables are suspect, you will need to further disassemble the brakes by taking off the REAR shoe. Driver or passenger side matters not, as the e-brake ALWAYS hooks into the REAR shoe.

Once you have it off, then you can take some vice grips and clamp down on the ferrule (metal thing on the end of the brake cable) and have someone work the e-brake pedal as you see if the cable even moves back and forth. If not, or just barely, then your e-brake sheath is shot.



Also, if your brake drums are hard to get off, and you find out that there is a deep groove worn into the drum, and you see that the brake shoes are not butted up against the center pin (the one where the springs attach, just above the wheel cylinder) when you do get the drum off...

Then MOST LIKELY, your cables are shot. (That is how I figured out mine were toast.)