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duraspark timing


vvlance2007

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Messages
10
City
alabama
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
i just finished a duraspark convert. on my 85 ranger 2.8 and i was wondering if i really need to hook up the advance timing on the dizzy. pros/cons?
 
Yes you do I have my timing set at 12 dbtdc and the advance you just hook up to manifold vacuum after you set the base timing.
 
Pros it will idle better get better mileage and overall performance
Cons opposite of the above
Just make sure all the vacuum leaks are plugged and connect the dizzy to the vacuum tree next to it. What kind of carb are you using.
 
You want to know if you need to hook up the vacuum hose? Let me put it this way, if you DON'T hook up the vacuum, you'll be worse off than when you had the TFI ignition. It is 100% necessary for proper engine operation. Set at 10°, hook up the vacuum, and make sure it isn't pinging under heavy throttle then work your way up to 11 or 12° if you want.
 
the thing is it runs great when its not hooked up and the timing is about 3/8 inch out of he timing marks!!! idk if my brother was off a tooth when we put the motor back together!!! it has a holley 2bl carb. im not to worried about gas milage because its a moud toy and already gets 6 mpg. im just tired of the wiring mess ford put on this truck!!! plus i noticed after i hooked up the duraspark the key will send power when it in the run position but will not crank the motor.... also it does not charge anymore it puts out about 8.5 volts, charged fine before!!!!!
 
I doubtit!

the thing is it runs great when its not hooked up and the timing is about 3/8 inch out of he timing marks!!! idk if my brother was off a tooth when we put the motor back together!!! it has a holley 2bl carb. im not to worried about gas milage because its a moud toy and already gets 6 mpg. im just tired of the wiring mess ford put on this truck!!! plus i noticed after i hooked up the duraspark the key will send power when it in the run position but will not crank the motor.... also it does not charge anymore it puts out about 8.5 volts, charged fine before!!!!!

I seriously doubt the timing is a cog off. It is simple... You have the timing set way to high! Pull the spout and set the timing at 8/10* advanced at about 650/750 rpm. Then tighten everything down and install a vac hose to constant vac for best running.. Then set the idle stop for about 700 rpm at hot idle.
THAT is for the best running. For a little less smog set the vac hose to the off idle vac port on the carb. Runs a little better on constant vac however.
Big JIm :hottubfun::wub:
 
Where are you taking the reading for the charge voltage? Your truck does have an external voltage regulator that's mounted on the drivers fender so if you disconnected that it won't charge right. There are two wires that go to the back of the alternator that need to be there.

When you check the timing you need to have the vacuum UNPLUGGED from the distributor to get the correct reading.
 
the regulator tested fine and somehow this morning its charging fine!!! probably a short. and ive tried timing it like that but it runs like shit!!! so i put it back the way i had it and tuned the carb and set the idel( havent hooked up the vac line yet but the only thing i can think of is if the balancer sliped at one point so that will be the next thing i look for when i get time!!!
 
LANCE! Get your butt to work on the vac to the dist.. Then set the timing to factory specs as described above.. IT WILL DRIVE MUCH BETTER when you get it corrected. TRUST US!
Big JIm
 
Did you mess with the carb idle air adjustment and did you get all the vacuum leaks fixed. if it wont idle at 10-12 degrees you have other issues set the timing at 10 dbtdc then figure out where your problem is. What you need is another set of eyes back up and start from the beginning. Is the egr still working you might have a vacuum leak there turn the idle air adjustments all the way in but not too tight and turn them out 2 turns get it to idle then turn them out to get the highest vacuum or the highest idle then check the timing disconnect the vacuum to the dizzy and plug the hose and set it at 10 -12 before top dead center mine runs good at 12 then connect the advance to the dizzy manifold vacuum works just fine then go back and adjust the idle air needles again out to highest idle then back in till you get the highest lean adjustment or until it drops a little then back out. It takes a few times to get it dialed but timing is critical for the top end. with the vacuum advance hooked up you should get about 37 dbtdc with the engine at 3000 rpm. the vacuum advance adds about 10 degrees. also check you idle air adjustments there should be no more than 1/2 turn between them count the turns in then back out. Make sure the engine is up to temp for all adjustments and the choke is fully open.
 
i have done all that multiple times and it runs like shit so i tuned it back they way i had it!!! i hooked up the vacume and it really makes no diff. plus this isnt a stock motor lots of add ons!! no egr, no a/c, ect. but it runs great now and strong so ill leave it where it is!! thamks for the susgestions
 
It'll run a LOT bettrer if you do it correctly!!! Without the vac advance you are missing 10 or 12* maximum advance. Your engine will tend to run hot. The timing for your engine isn't something to mess with.
As for add ons. If they aren't INSIDE the engine, then the engine still needs the same amount of timing as it did before you tried to out think the Ford engineers! Put it right or suffer the conquences.
Big JIm
 
To see if it doesnt really make a difference hook a timing light up with the vacuum advance on it then off the vacuum hose.
 

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