duraspark question

[atkinson]

hello all,

i have bought all the parts new carb, new everything and still waiting on the 4 plug for the duraspark box, my question is do you have to cut off the plastic wings on the plug that go's into the dizzy? the plug looks like it will plug in if the plastic wings was not there and why is there 4 wires intead of 3? did they give me the wrong plug? i order the one on the list

thanks

Dave

 

[kimcrwbr1]

you need the round three plug connector for the dizzy and 4 for the module. I got mine out of a 84 4cyl ranger and it plugged right in and just needed to splice the green wire to the coil/ The 2 wire oval on the module should plug right in also the red and white wires are backwards but it is correct. Basically all you need from the dizzy is the ground wire correct the other two can be reversed they are for the pickup coil but you can hard wire it without the connectors just solder and shrink wrap the connections. does the 4 wire you have plug into the module if so then your short the three wire connector for the dizzy yes the wings are different.

 

[atkinson]

kimcrwbr1,

thanks for the reply i am getting the 4 wire plug today and will be working on the truck this weekend. i degreased the engine bay last night after work. so with the plugs that i got from the list for the 2.8 conversion when i connect the 3 plug to the dizzy and the 4 plug to the duraspark box i then just splice new wires inbetween the 2 plugs right?

Dave

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

If the wires aren't long enough then add some in, but if you ordered pigtails they should have enough wire on them. Just match up the colors and crimp them together.

 

[SR185]

I should have all of the parts to start my conversion by this weekend. (I should have had them last week, but NAPA's online ordering system was down, and I had to call after 5 days to find out)

Anyway, I'm a little apprehensive about all the wires and vacuum hoses that need to be pulled. I don't want to mess up my a/c, cruise control, or other accessories.

I ordered all new parts, pig tails, and carb.

One question I haven't seen mentioned: When I remove the air pump, what size belt do I need to run the alternator. I believe they share the same belt.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Exact same belt as what goes on the power steering pump. My air pump just locked up a few weeks ago and I had to swap the power steering pump belt over to the alternator to get home. 11pm + 1 hour from home = no way I'm getting home on just the battery.

The AC wiring is pretty obvious, you just follow it where it goes and leave that part of it alone.
Cruise control? Had no idea these could have that. But if it has it you'll need to leave any parts associated with it. Again follow wires and vacuum hoses and leave those in place. You may be able to run an alternative source of vacuum for the throttle diaphragm.
One other thing that I find useful is the evap system. I left the components for that on my old ranger. Basically, its one large hose from the canister down on the lower drivers side front of the engine bay, and the purge solenoid up by the carb.

 

[SR185]

Thanks Hotrod. I'll purchase a power steering pump belt before I get started.

After I remove the airpump, what do I do with the hoses connected to it? The instructions say to plug them. Plug them with what?

And yes, my '84 BII XLT has cruise control operated with factory buttons on the steering wheel.

 

[dangerranger83]

IIRC the cruise control is electrically activated but vaccum controled.

As for the A/C I dont know if it tells the computer to uppen the idle to keep it where it should be when turned on.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

For the A/C you can put a idle speed solenoid where the engine idle control motor is to raise the rpm when the clutch is enguaged. On my jeep the vehicle speed sensor is part of the computer is yours in the speedometer cable (mechanical). there was only a couple of wires at the 8 wire connector I needed to cut to eliminate the computer I just stripped the harness from the 8 wire connector to the alternatorand pulled the plate loose through the firewall and disconnected all the engine sensors and solenoids and vacuum lines. just spend a day being careful not to cut any needed wires you can retape the good wires and use the cable sheave to protect the loop if it is not too brittle from the old harness. Most all the wires and vacuum lines go away. Run the advance vacuum off of the tree by the dizzy or manifold vacuum and I am running the air valves off the ported vacuum on the carb for the air pump both the thermactor and bypass valves seems to work just fine. The vapor cannister is hooked direct to manifold vacuum but I put a restrictor in so it dont effect the idle. you just need to plug the unused ports on the vacuum tree and be sure and plug the port on the back of the egr spacer where the vapor line was plugged into if your not going to use it. I have the two solenoids for the float bowl and vapor lines connected to the old power to the computer and the choke heater so they are switched ignition on. any wires you cut leave a long enough pigtail for future use. It will be obvious what you need when you get it all taken apart you will be amazed at the room you will have when you get rid of all the computer crap the passenger side wheelwell will look naked. Gl keep us posted

 

[SR185]

stupid question: What do you plug the egr and vacuum lines with?

Do I need to purchase some additional vacuum line? size?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If the egr is not leaking just leave it or make a metal plate and use a good egr gasket for the higher temps. For the vacuum tree you can just use small lengths and loop them or get the rubber caps at the part store or just shove a slightly larger screw in the hose

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

After I remove the airpump, what do I do with the hoses connected to it? The instructions say to plug them. Plug them with what?

A the head of a large bolt works pretty well. Find something that will fit into the hose fairly tight then put a clamp around it and tighten it down good. I cut the hose on the check valve down to about 2" length. The best thing to do is remove them from the manifolds and plug the holes there with high temp exhaust cement. The bolts that hold the air pipes to the manifolds can be a bitch though. Not much room and they are usually rusty as hell. I cut the pipe and took the manifolds off which was also a bitch. I filled the holes and cut up a universal muffler hanger to use as block of plates. Bolted the "plates" to the manifolds and let the cement dry. Never did leak. Don't use JB Weld for this, it will melt and get blown out.

 

[atkinson]

a few questions for you all,

#1. the stock coil wire does not fit new round coil, so where can i get one or can i make one.

#2.the tube from the transmission does that go to the vacuum tree

#3.the vacuum from the new diizy does that go to tree or carb

#4. the wires on the left side of alt. which are white with black line and orange with blue line do i plug that back in to driver side and then cut the rest of the wire away

5#. on the driver side where the other end of the plug for the alt is that where i get the hot for the coil.


thanks all in advance


Dave

 

[kimcrwbr1]

a few questions for you all,

#1. the stock coil wire does not fit new round coil, so where can i get one or can i make one.

#2.the tube from the transmission does that go to the vacuum tree

#3.the vacuum from the new diizy does that go to tree or carb

#4. the wires on the left side of alt. which are white with black line and orange with blue line do i plug that back in to driver side and then cut the rest of the wire away

5#. on the driver side where the other end of the plug for the alt is that where i get the hot for the coil.


thanks all in advance


Dave

1 you can get the connector for the round coil if it dont run on battery voltage you will need to add a resistor I am using the stock coil and plugs works great.
2 and three go to the vacuum tree just plug the ports on the carb.
4 the alternator wires orange/blu goes to the regulator the wht/blk is not used you can hook it up to the choke thermostat and see if it opens the choke it gives you about 8 volts when the engine is running. blk/orange is power full time.
5 the powe for the coil is switched just use the same wire from the old coil wire and splice the green from the module to the neg side.
Hopefully you left the 8 wire connector by the coil connected the only computer wire there are for power the rest go to the oil pressure water temp and alternator you can also use the computer power for the coil if need be I believe they were spliced together anyway.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/DurasparkII.html here is the schenatic for a ballast resistor if you need to go that route.

 

[SR185]

1. For the Duraspark conversion, I purchased the two optional connectors listed on the Duraspark conversion instructions found in TRS library. I have not obtained a donor wiring harness. Am I correct that with my '84 BII, I really don't need the donor harness - I can just run wire between the connector I plug into the module, and the connector I plug into the distributor?

2. I got the felpro 60529 carb spacer for the Motorcraft 2150. Do I need to use the carb gasket that came with the carb, or just the spacer by itself? My guess is to use the gasket, but I want to make sure.