Did you turn the choke thermostat to hold the choke all the way open and tighten it. If your getting spark hold the throttle all the way open until it fires up. It sounds like your getting close just get the timing close until it is all the way warm. I would keep the advance connected to manifold vacuum and time it around 20 degrees to get the engine warm. turn the idle screws out for the highest rpm then set the curb ldle on the carb next to the throttle cable to about 800 rpm. Pull the vacuum of the dizzy and plug it and set it at 10 degrees and lock it down. check it after you get it tight then plug the vacuum back in. You want the highest vacuum or rpm for the idle air screws on the bottom of the carb then check them. Count the turns in then back out they should be within 1/2 a turn between them.
Did it even fire at all? I tried to start mine today and it wouldn't do it unless I floored it. Turns out that one of my vacuum plugs blew off my vacuum tree ( it likes to backfire through the carb. when its cold and given to much fuel). I need to fix my choke still, my gas guage is tellng me to do that.
I have gotten it to fire once, but it bogged down and died. It is getting colder each day here so i have to get this thing to start and move this weekend. Also what do i do with the little vacuum thing right behind the carb?
Are you talking the choke pulloff what does it look like pics will help. Turn the idle air screws out 3 turns from the lightly seated position to get it running mine runs best almost 4 turns out.
do you have a curb idle screw it is the one on the base of the carb by the throttle cable it holds the butterfly open for engine idle yurn it down so it holds the throttle open a little you will see it push the lever as you turn it down.
That one is for the automatic tranny vacuum modulator just plug it if you have a manual tranny. That it called the vacuum tree or manifold vacuum port. The large one is for the brake booster. one goes to the air cleaner preheater door cap it if your not using the preheater duct from the exhaust on the drivers side. That is also where you hook your vacuum advance to the dizzy. Just cap the rest of them off for now all you need is the brake booster,vacuum advance and tranny modulator if automatic. There is another port that goes to the vapor cannister by the radiator on the drivers side follow that line to the back of the carb. It plugs into the egr spacer on the back center of the spacer. Just disconnect it from the solenoid and plug it with a bolt or some you may want to use it later to take fuel vapors out of the engine compartment later. Dude your getting close stick with it once you work the bugs out.
Just plug the holes and it should run. Mine did the samething when one of my vacuum caps came off, only ran at high rpms when I had my foot on the gas.
Well my coil is hooked up right, and replaced. It still will not start, i think i have lost spark again. Today i spent several hours taking out the harness and cleaning up the engine bay.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.