duraspark distributor size differences

[1BadRS]

I have a question about the distributors used with the duraspark ignition systems. I have two of them and they are quite different.

One looks like the one they recommend to use in the tech article. It has an adapter and a large cap with the exposed terminals. It also has a large vacuum port.

The other is a one piece cap that is the same size as the stock one. This has a female type terminal setup on the top as well as a much smaller vacuum port.

Which one is better?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The Duraspark cap should be pretty big.

I didn't try it on my 2.8 dizzy, but on a SBF you can put a points cap on a Duraspark dizzy, and they don't need the adapter and big cap.

 

[1BadRS]

The small one looks exactly like this one

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4760801/

The other one looks like the one one the tech page

I'm just curious why they have two different versions. I would have more room using the small one. If the big one is actually better, would I be able to use swap the smaller vacuum port onto it?

 

[dangerranger83]

The big cap helps prevent spark jump from tower to tower on the inside at higher rpms. Im running the big cap now and it doesnt take up that much space. Use the big cap with the adaptor and call it a day.

 

[Twister]

I would use the one with the big adapter and the big cap, mine uses that (but i bought all my equipment new from autozone and advance auto

 

[1BadRS]

I have the larger one installed right now and have the other as a "spare".

I read up on using the cap adapter and bigger cap until I saw that link to the Mallory unit which uses the small cap design so I was curious to the different designs.

thanks

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The large cap works great on my 83 I have the timing at 5 dbtdc with no vacuum. I think the dampers get old and tweaked giving a false tdc. mine runs best at 15 degrees with vacuum from the tree or manifold vacuum. If it advances too far you lose the upper end torque.

 

[schmoo]

the small cap should work fine with the stock can coil,
but i would use the big one with a hotter coil.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I like the idea of using the TFI coil then the stock plugs will work the best. The tfi coil puts out about 1 1/2 times the power as one with a resistor and the plugs are designed for the higher voltage. The larger cap keeps from cross firing inside the cap. The key is in the timing I am half tempted to see where my timing is after putting a new damper pully on right now it is running the best so far with it at 5 dbtdc and total advance is a little over 40 btdc and 15 with the vacuum advance plugged in. I was able to pull tiger mountain pass at 60+ mph for the first time ever.

 

[dangerranger83]

I would just keep the stock TFI coil and keep it simple.

 

[1BadRS]

I appreciate all the tips and I have been listening. The motor isn't dropped into the truck yet so easier to make any changes I need to now.

I got the big cap distributor in and I ordered a new TFI coil so I could eliminate that resistor. I will be running the stock plugs as well. I also just ordered my wiring connectors so now I can start making my harness. I thought this was a good diagram on the wiring.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

 

[dangerranger83]

The tech library that is here has a few wiring diagrams for the duraspark plus a detailed write-up on how to do it.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

That is actually a good schematic maybe it could be added to the tech library, running a wire back from the start solenoid to the module will simplify it for some people especially on the 85 wiring. with the 83-84 all you have to do is plug the two wire connector in for power to the module. While the engine is still out are you gonna replace all the gaskets and seals, rear main,new oil pump and pan gaskets, valve cover, intake manifold. now would be the time if it hasn`t been done. The fuel pump can be a biotch also.

 

[1BadRS]

The previous owner before me really did quite a hack job on the engine harness so even though I have an 84 that would be more or less plug and play it isn't. Over by the firewall on the driver side are a bunch of cut wires that I need to figure out what is what and then I can wire this up. I bought all new connectors so the duraspark piece shouldn't be too hard. Once that is done I have to figure out the wiring for the alternator as the wires that actually hook to the alt. are gone as well. The wire for the external regulator is still in the truck I just have to solder the connection back where it was cut.

With regards to replacing the seals and gaskets since the engine is out, I did put in a new fuel pump as I heard how fun they are to do with the motor installed. I wasn't planning to replace any other gaskets as the motor is pretty dry and wasn't leaking, a seep here and there but nothing that would cause me any concern.

What I would like to do with the engine out is flush out the block where the coolant flows. The coolant wasn't very nice looking and if there is a way to flush out any garbage that might be inside that would be great. I wasn't sure how the best way to go about that was or if I should just wait until the motor is back in and then flush it with something like that prestone kit that ties into the heater hose.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I think the best way to flush the block is to remove the water pump and alternately blow high pressure water in all the holes until it comes out clear. You can always spray some oven cleaner in there with the block empty let it sit for a bit then blast it good with water without hurting anything. If any water should end up in the pan be sure and drain the oil befor you turn it over and add fresh oil and a filter. For the initial startup add a half a quart of ATF with the engine oil while your dialing it in to flush the engine and then add fresh 5W30 and a motorcraft filter after around 100 miles just to be safe. I would still put the flush tee in the heater hose for topping off the cooling system it is the fastest way to burp that engine.