Duraspark conversion.

[franklin2]

When you replace that choke thermostat, it's going to take several cold morning starts to get it adjusted just right. Just be patient with it. Marking it with white out or some sort of tape helps keep track of where you have moved it and in what direction.

 

[Bronco648]

When you replace that choke thermostat, it's going to take several cold morning starts to get it adjusted just right. Just be patient with it. Marking it with white out or some sort of tape helps keep track of where you have moved it and in what direction.

I also have very specific instructions, on how to set the choke, from the shop that rebuilt the carb. So, I'm hoping to at least have a baseline.

 

[Bronco648]

I checked the carb float and found it to be out-of-adjustment (set too low). I also found that there was some grit in the bottom of the float bowl. I adjusted the float and cleaned the bowl. That should solve the rich/flooded issue on hot re-starts.

After corresponding with the shop that rebuilt the engine, I opted to check the head bolt torque settings (all still @ 85 ft./lb.) and adjust the valves. Some valves were loose and some were tight. I'm glad I decided to check them. The job isn't hard but it is time consuming (the Durspark conversion certainly helps, there's a lot less stuff to (re)move to get to the valves). I also installed a new set of plug wires (new plugs are on the way).

 

[franklin2]

I hope your fuel problems are solved, but the grit in the bottom of the fuel bowl is worrisome. That means you might have a rusty/dirty fuel system. If you do, you are always going have problems with it. One little piece of grit gets under the float needle and holds the needle open a little bit, and the bowl starts overflowing with fuel. Then that piece of grit makes it through and everything settles down till you go over a bumpy road or something and dislodge more rust. That gets sent up to the carb and causes havoc again.

If you are using the original style fuel filter that screws into the carb, they usually have a spring loaded filter inside. When the filter gets clogged, the fuel pump pressure will push the filter back against the spring and bypass the filter. You might want to take your fuel filter off, get a clean paper towel and pour the filter out from the inlet, and tap it on the towel to see how much junk is in it. If it's full of rust flakes, I would look about getting a new fuel tank.

 

[Bronco648]

Boy howdy did adjusting the float level and and adjusting the valves help! The engine really idles nicely now. I don't have a tach but I wouldn't be surprised if the idle RPM was ~900-1000. Also, the 'rich' exhaust smell is pretty much gone.

I hope your fuel problems are solved, but the grit in the bottom of the fuel bowl is worrisome. That means you might have a rusty/dirty fuel system. If you do, you are always going have problems with it. One little piece of grit gets under the float needle and holds the needle open a little bit, and the bowl starts overflowing with fuel. Then that piece of grit makes it through and everything settles down till you go over a bumpy road or something and dislodge more rust. That gets sent up to the carb and causes havoc again.

If you are using the original style fuel filter that screws into the carb, they usually have a spring loaded filter inside. When the filter gets clogged, the fuel pump pressure will push the filter back against the spring and bypass the filter. You might want to take your fuel filter off, get a clean paper towel and pour the filter out from the inlet, and tap it on the towel to see how much junk is in it. If it's full of rust flakes, I would look about getting a new fuel tank.

I would be a little more worried about the grit in the fuel bowl if it weren't for the following (and the fact that I could count the grit particles - there were four);

1. I drained as much fuel out of the tank as I could back in July/August when I had the bed off of the frame. I believe there was only a gallon or two of fuel left in the tank and I found very little debris in the bottom of the catch container (no rust).
2. I have been running a "pre" fuel filter, that's clear, just where the hard fuel line ends in the engine compartment (in the vicinity of the where the knock sensor was on the block). The filter has remained grit/rust free the entire time.
3. I punched holes in the top carb gasket where the two 'air tubes' are in the air horn. And, the air cleaner assembly was off the truck for a few weeks (with the truck in the garage). The carb was covered with a rag but it would be easy for a bit of grit to enter the float bowl.

The screw-in fuel filter is new (which does not preclude it from being full of rust/grit). And, I will check it for debris as well. Right now, I'm thinking I'm just dealing with debris that entered during re-assembly and tuning.

While I had the top of the carb off, I noticed that the jets were 56F (F = Ford and H = Holley - also Holley jets are 1/4" thread while Ford jets are 5/16" - not interchangeable). It's also pretty clear, from the enlarged screwdriver slots, that the jets have been in/out quite a few times). Knowing nothing about how these carbs are jetted from the factory, I used Google to gain some knowledge. It seems that the 2150 1.21 Venturi carbs came with 56F jets. The 'smaller' 2150 1.08 carbs came with 47F jets. I am going to start using the spark plugs to determine if the jets need to be a little leaner.

That said, does anyone know which jets they're running in their 2150 1.08 carb?

 

[Bronco648]

OK, update on carb adjustments:

I adjusted the idle air mixture screws which were WAY rich (too far out). I'd guess they're more like 1 to 1.25 turns out now (as opposed to 2 turns out which seems to be the 'initial' setting found on the interwebz).

I also stepped down the main jets from 56 to 54. Based on the color of the plugs, this is much better. I may even try 53 mains in the not-so-distant future. That said, each carb/engine combo is unique and you may find that your engine/carb likes something slightly different.

I need to adjust the idle and think I'm going to go with a manual choke. The electric choke has been a bit of a b!tch to adjust.

 

[Rand]

I used a Davis Unified Ignition recurved Duraspark 2.8 distributor going through an MSD 6A box to a MSD Blaster 2 coil.

 

[franklin2]

I used a Davis Unified Ignition recurved Duraspark 2.8 distributor going through an MSD 6A box to a MSD Blaster 2 coil.

I wonder how many 2.8 distributors they have on hand to rebuild? I have the funny feeling if you picked the 2.8 v6 DSII, they are going to ask you to send your old one in. Not many of those around anymore. Of course no one with a BII has the correct dist originally for a core.

 

[Rand]

I wonder how many 2.8 distributors they have on hand to rebuild? I have the funny feeling if you picked the 2.8 v6 DSII, they are going to ask you to send your old one in. Not many of those around anymore. Of course no one with a BII has the correct dist originally for a core.

Don't know. I bought mine from them 2017 and it wasn't an issue back then. I realize things may be different now. The lead time then was also 8-12 weeks, so that by itself doesn't indicate anything other than they build to order for parts like this. They asked me for all the specs on my engine, so they could tailor the recurve to my needs.

There was no core required at the time. One would need to call them and ask; they are good people.

 

[Bronco648]

I wonder how many 2.8 distributors they have on hand to rebuild? I have the funny feeling if you picked the 2.8 v6 DSII, they are going to ask you to send your old one in. Not many of those around anymore. Of course no one with a BII has the correct dist originally for a core.

I have a spare one that needs a rebuild. I was going to see if Cardone would still do it.

One would need to call them and ask; they are good people.

I think I'll explore this option. Thanks for posting.

 

[Bronco648]

An update: Was able to resolve the leaking master cylinder. My local shop couldn't source the part so they were OK with installing the (Raybestos) unit I sourced from Amazon. I have no idea if I did anything wrong installing the first one but this one is leak-free, so far.

I replaced the Carter fuel pump with an o.e. Ford unit (source from eBay) which is also made by Carter (big thanks to @AndyB. for sending the link to me). It wasn't as hard as it looked to replace it. However, you do need to use a bunch of 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet extensions, in a specific order, to be able to remove/install that lower bolt. You can get your fingers in there to start the bolt but need to use a socket/ratchet to do the rest. Most of the work is done from underneath. The removed unit (again, brand new, not rebuilt) leaked from the pivot pin where it protruded from the body casting. The o.e. unit is of the same design but the pin stands proud of the casting. I'm not sure if the removed unit was defective, if the pin was pressed in wrong or if the pin is shorter now and this is a calculated risk?

Seem to have my cooling issues resolved, too. Now I gotta go wrestle with a manual choke cable.

 

[Bronco648]

I was able to get the manual choke cable installed and working. Now, I need to take if for a ride and see how it functions. I had to do some crazy things with the cable routine and, because the air cleaner interferes with the manual lever, it has to be installed "upside down" so you pull the cable to open the choke (as opposed to pushing the cable). Maybe I'll just get a new electric choke and let electricity do the work.....

 

[Bobber64]

I have a spare one that needs a rebuild. I was going to see if Cardone would still do it.

I think I'll explore this option. Thanks for posting.

I wasn’t able to find one, anywhere. I called Green Sales Company and found they have one for a 78 Mustang 2. As soon as I get it I’ll post the Ford part number and info. $150 plus shipping.

 

[Bobber64]

I wasn’t able to find one, anywhere. I called Green Sales Company and found they have one for a 78 Mustang 2. As soon as I get it I’ll post the Ford part number and info. $150 plus shipping.

Just what I needed NOS 45 year old distributor. $170 delivered.
They only have 3 left now.
D7ZZ12127C is the part number you need to enter on their page
I’ll update again when it’s installed and running.

Main

 

[Bronco648]

Pretty much exactly what my re-man Cardone unit looks like except I have NAPA rotor & caps which are grey.