Duraspark Conversion

[edwards1687]

Hey guys,

I've decided the best route for me to take on my recently acquired 85' BII is to do the duraspark conversion. The previously messed with the wiring and I'm having a hard time telling what he did. I figured I can eliminate this mess by going with the conversion from the get go. I plan on buying all new parts because most of the local salvage yards are aren't great. I've read as many threads as I can find on the conversion but still need some help on a few things. Do this eliminate the computer completely? Napa shows two different distrutors one with module and one w/o, which one is needed? Is it worth going with the Holley 0-7448 carb or should I stick with the Motorcraft 2150? If the Motorcraft is what I need, what venturi would I need and could someone provide me a link for the best place to buy one. I know that's a lot of questions but I'm trying to get everything figured out before I get started.

Thanks!

 

[edwards1687]

I went ahead and bought all the parts I need to do the duraspark conversion. I ended up picking up a remanufacturered Holley carb for the swap. Tomorrow I'm going to start the process along with several other areas that need attention. One area I need some help on is the fuel line from the pump to the carb. With the new Holley carb the fuel intake valve is in a different location on the carb. Would it be best to bend a new line or buy some type of stainless braided flex fuel line?

 

[BichoBII]

Im running a rubber fuel hose from pump to carb since i broke previous stainles one, don't think ive had any problems...

 

[edwards1687]

I got all the necessary wiring, vacuum lines and the computer removed yesterday but a question about an air conditioning wire. There is one one black wire that plugs into the main harness on the passenger fender that I had to disconnect to remove the computer and main harness. It does go into the main computer harness plug. Could this possibly just be a ground wire? I'm not sure if it will effect the A/C working properly or not?

Also as far as removing the smog pump goes I'm guessing I need a new, smaller once that is bypassed. Does anyone know what belt I would need?

 

[wildbill23c]

I'm not sure on your A/C wiring, but on your smog pump removal, I can't remember if the belt for the smog pump ran anything else or not, its been too long since I had my 84 Ranger with a smog pump. My 84 B2 doesn't have a/c or the smog pump so the alternator and the power steering pump use the same belt part number 15485 at autozone. Not sure what the part number is anywhere else, but that's the number for the belt at autozone. I'd try that belt as it seems to fit my application pretty well.

 

[edwards1687]

The smog pump is run by the same belt as the alternator. The power steering and air conditioning have separate belts as well. I may have to pick up that belt and see if that'll work.

 

[enginepaul]

I think that wire to the A/C is the clutch wire. Push the A/C button and if it shows voltage, that's what it is for. I don't think the computer controls it in any way. (I'm not an A/C expert; this is just from memory)

 

[edwards1687]

I think that wire to the A/C is the clutch wire. Push the A/C button and if it shows voltage, that's what it is for. I don't think the computer controls it in any way. (I'm not an A/C expert; this is just from memory)

Ok I'll have to check that out. How would that effect the A/C if it's no longer plugged in or will it not work at all?

 

[wildbill23c]

So since the Alternator and the Smog Pump used the same belt, then you can use part number 15485 at autozone to run just the alternator.

 

[Lil-Pony]

That wire could be to tell the computer that the a/c is running and to increase the rpms a litte

 

[millwrightdude]

When I did mine I accidently removed my back up lights, I now get to fix that if I can figure out where the wires go

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I`m not sure but the wire from the computer might be for the wot cutout relay. The computer will turn off the compressor when throttle is past a certain point using throttle position and engine vacuum. I guess you can put a solenoid that will raise engine rpm when the clutch is enguaged for the compressor. I will see if I can find one.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...j?itemIdentifier=3001_0_19378_1277,1382,12767
Some guys use them when they convert the compressor to on board air you just need the bracket for the dashpot and it pushes on the flat spot on the throttle lever on the carb.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-AUTOLI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac529465b&vxp=mtr
you see the dashpot on this carb.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I remered I have the bracket the solenoid is weak tho u pay shipping PM me?

 

[edwards1687]

Kim can that be used with a Holley carb? I'm getting pretty close to being done with the conversion. I've had some other issues to take care of in the process and have been taking my time. A few things I'm unsure of with the Holley carb is vacuum hook ups and the throttle and choke hook ups. It looks like the throttle linkage stud needs to be swapped out to a ball stud instead of the flat on so the cable can be a hooked up correctly. I'm also not sure if I left the electric choke wiring when removing all the junk. What should I be looking for? Also how did you guys go about blocking off the smog pump pipe to the cat?