duraspark conversion

[lmtpop]

would someone who has accomplished this conversion on an 84 post some close up clear photo's, i have looked at all the written instructions and need some better photo's for the wiring hook ups. thanks

 

[PetesPonies]

It doesn't get much easier than using a Duraspark distributor and a GM HEI module. Here it is in my '84. It is mounted where the relays were, because I removed the feedback carb as well.

then with the stock cover on it, never know it's there.

I used it this way with the 2.8 for a while, then smartened up and put a V8 in. Nothing changed in the ignition though. I hooked up the V8 distributor to this same setup. Works great.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Nice heat sync what kind of coil are you useing?

 

[PetesPonies]

stock TFI coil. You can barely see it tucked over on the side in this pic

 

[lmtpop]

great start what about the other end of the wires? power to the coil... etc thanks really clear photos

 

[PetesPonies]

This is all that is involved:

and here is another version of the same thing:

 

[wildbill23c]

Awesome, simple diagrams, where did you get that module on the fender, or what is the part number, looks like a simple fix to all the mess of wiring. Also, which carburetor did you end up using? I'm trying to get the parts together to do the same as I can here the feedback computer in the cab clicking like its shorting out or something and at the same time feels like the truck starts losing power when it starts clicking.

 

[PetesPonies]

Buy a module for a '76 Camaro 350 . . you will get the right one. I used a 2100 I had from something along the way . Not sure what it was from now. Just get a small 2100 and rebuild it. You can rejet it if necessary.

 

[wildbill23c]

Thanks, any idea on the clicking noise? When that computer or whatever it is on the passenger side kick panel starts clicking it acts like the engine is going to just shut off and will also make it feel like you are driving around with the brakes on.

 

[PetesPonies]

The power to the computer is sent through a relay. You are probably hearing the relay. However, it should not be going on and off. So your problem may just be the relay.

 

[wildbill23c]

Ok is the relay down by the computer or up under the hood? Sorry for the stupid questions trying to get it running right as cheaply as possible.

 

[PetesPonies]

I do not know where it is on the Ranger . I have never had to do anything with mine and have never worked on another Ranger needing the relay replaced. I know one is there somewhere Hopefully someone here will know where it is.

 

[wildbill23c]

Ok, thanks. Kind of wonder if maybe the other day when I replaced the heater blower motor I knocked something on the fenderwell lose in all those connections. I'll look at it tomorrow before I goto work.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The EEC relay is next to the computer on the passenger side bulkhead in front of the door. Just pull the sill plate under the passenger door and remove the plastic panel under the glovebox. If water is present clean the connectors on the computer and relay good with electrical cleaner fix the ground wire if necessary and then build a tent like to keep moisture from getting to the wires and connectors. Put some dielectric grease on the connectors when you put them together. The clicking might be coming from the feedback solenoid on the back of the carb or the control relays on the passenger side under the plactic cover. You can try anfd get all the emissions working again by cleaning all the connectors under the hood the same way. Sand all the grounds you find metal to metal. Make sure all the sensors are connected even the one on the air filter housing. It sounds like it is going into limp mode by default. It turns off the computer advance to the distributor and is just running on base timing. All the sensors wave to be connected and working or it will default to limp mode. With the duraspark all of that goes away all you keep is the water temp, oil pressure and alternator wires. Its quite amazing once you remove the computer harness and vacuum lines how much room you gain.

 

[wildbill23c]

It started doing this after I replaced the fan motor for the heater last weekend, so I'm wondering if something under the hood got bumped enough to cause the problem, but the noise is coming from the passenger side in the cab so it has to be something with that relay. It never did this before and the emissions stuff has been pretty much bypassed, its only been doing this off and on since Sunday when the heater motor was replaced. I'll be checking all the connections tomorrow before work. I know with it being cold and raining and snowing I have a leak in the cab somewhere so water may be getting into that area somewhere too so maybe part of my problem.