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duraspark carb swap


robert.humm

Active Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
32
City
Elizabethtown, IL
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
what carbs can be used for the duraspark swap on an 84 bII? do you have to use a 2150? does it matter if it came off a v8? please include model numbers if available.
 
the 2150 is the time proven best carb, and all you need to look for is the venturi size 1.08 stamped on the side in the circle close to where the throttle shaft goes into the side of the float bowl. then make sure the jets have #50 stamped on the top same carb as the 302 or 5.0l
 
cool. how do i know whether or not it's a "non-feedback" carb? sorry for all the questions lol.. im pretty new to this stuff.
 
also, what about the power valve cover? on my 2150a it has the nipple for the hose.. can i just switch it over?
 
if the carb you got does not have the nipple it is already ported you just need to plug the vacuum on the manifold spacer and you will probably need a new phenolic spacer for the new carb felpro # 60529 around $18 and the part store you will have a vacuum leak on the bottom of the feedback spacer where the TPS was
 
Actually the carb I got didnt have the port from the bottom inside of the carb to the power valve make sure it does if not then yea put the cover with the nipple on it and connect it to the spacer nipple just below it like the stock carb was.
 
I really don't know what my carb part number is, but I just got online, after fighting a holley 350, I bought and put on the carb off of a 1977 Pinto 2.8. bolt on, 3/4 turn on the mixture screws, plug a hot wire into the choke and it's been a year of trouble free sitting at stop lights with the truck idling etc etc. Almost like a regular vehicle!!! :yahoo:
 
yeah, im looking at a carb off a pinto. prolly gonna buy in the next few days. this vacuum garbage is driving me insane. not to mention wires & lines everywhere.. always in the damn way.
 
It`s nice when you do the duraspark all that crap goes away the only wires you need are the distributor, alternator, water and oil and choke wires and the only vacuum you need is the brake, pcv, choke pulloff, advance and air diverter`s if you want to make it work. my passenger side wheel well has only the starter solenoid. I got the vacuum door on the air filter working for cold starts also
 
The air filter housing has a door on it that is controled by vaccuum so that when its cold started or cold out the door is told by the system to colse off the main supply and suck warm air from around the drivers side exhaust manifold to help warm the engine up faster. As the engine warms up this door closes and it sucks from the main supply.
 
The little round metal thingy in the bottom of the filter houseing tells it when to open and close it ia a bimetal when it warms up it turns the vac off
 
got a picture? either im unclear of what exactly this is.. or the guy before me removed it & failed to put it back on.. like many other things haha
 
on the air filter housing is there a white vacuum connector and a vacuum hose going to the vacuum motor on the air inletpiece of the housing
 

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