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dura spark conversion


lmtpop

Active Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2012
Messages
27
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Manual
duraspark distributor installation, i have done the wiring thanks to all who added photo's. but i can't seem to get the distro all the way down in the engine block. any one have this trouble before. i am going to reinstall the original distro this evening to make sure the oil pump drive is still aligned. it slides down to about where the "o" ring seal is but no further. i tried bumping it with a hammer on a block of wood but no luck.
 
I had the same problem when I did mine 2 years ago so I can't remember what the problem was exactly
I did the same thing putting in the old dizzy in and making sure everything was lined up but it just would not go in
I had to take the distributer back and exchange it for a different one that slipped right in.
 
thanks, hopefully sticking the old one in or rotating it slightly will realign things but if not back to Autozone it goes.
 
Keep us updated on how it goes. I may be doing the same thing on my 84B2 this spring or summer. Looks and sounds pretty easy and well worth the swap. Although I'm not sure really how much or if I really need to do it considering the computer relay has been sitting on my desk for a month now and been driving the B2 around with absolutely no issues now.
 
The new O-ring can be a pain getting in the first time maybe a light coat of grease to lube it up a bit. I had the same trouble with mine and eventually it dropped all the way down. It took me about three or four times to get it at 11 oclock with #1 cyl on TDC on the compression stroke. Maybe pull the O-ring off and get it set then put it back on and pop it down. When you go to crank it over to line up the oil pump pull the rotor off it wont even feel it when it grabs your hand but you will.
 
When I did mine I pulled the intake manifold and put new valve guide seals and a manifold gasket it actually holds oil now for two years I was using about a quart every 300 miles mostly out the exhaust but they allways end up leaking in the valleys between the heads and the block under the manifold.
 
wiring done, carb 2150 rebuilt and installed, working out the timing and idle issues, discovered a missing vacuum port nipple was missing which accounted for most of the previous idle issues. but it now cranks fairly easy but still backfiring through the carb. working outdoors in winter limits time spend on the b2 but it is not my daily driver so i have the time. looking for exhaust set up recommendations. it currently has dual all the way back to the rear bumper, with stock intake and carb seems like the it might have too little backpressue. thinking about going single exhaust but upping the diameter a bit.
 
I`m not sure how much back pressure will effect performance. Set the timing at 10 degrees base if you still using the stock carb just hook the advance to manifold vacuum the timing will be around 20 degrees but thats ok just idle it down with the idle stop screw. Once you get it timed adjust the idle air needles for the highest vacuum pressure of rpms they are both real close. Base timing must be 10 degrees btdc I have tried every possible setting that works the best and allways adjust the idle air needles every time you change the timing. I fought vacuum leaks also use a piece of vacuum tubing and put one end in your ear and listen with the other it works great for isolating exhaust leaks also be careful of moving parts and hot pipes.
 
If you have a 1/4 extension that will retain the socket well without it falling off, try finding a socket that fits the oil pump shaft and turning it just a little bit, and see if that does the trick for you.
 

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