drum brakes tighten up with the lug nuts!?!?

[bmerr98]

Ok, it wouldn't be the first time I overlooked something simple, and drum brakes being around as long as they have, shouldn't pose that big of a problem, but the 10 inch drums on my 98 ranger are about to make me lose my religion!

I've looked around and I did see where I had the slack adjuster cable on wrong. That has been corrected. My issue comes when I adjust the brakes. I get them to where they drag slightly as they should, but when I put the wheels on and tighten the lug nuts I can barely turn the tire by hand. I am at a loss.

What am I missing, Ranger Buddies?

 

[monsterchuck]

Are the shoes the right width? I don't know what's available on your truck, but the only thing that immediatly comes to my mind is that the shoes are getting pinned between the face of the drum and tha backing plate. Try putting the wheel on, and evenly tighten the lugnuts by hand until you can feel the tire get hard to turn. Spin it around a few times by hand, then pull the wheel and drum off and see if there is a spot that is being marked on the drum or the sh.oes from rubbing

 

[gw33gp]

Sounds like you may have something between the wheel and drum or between the drum and axle flange that distorts the drum when the lug nuts are tightened. The mating surfaces may not be flat also which could result in distorting the drum.

 

[bmerr98]

Full disclosure ... I.did not have the drums turned. I'm thinking they're worn unevenly in a cone shape, with the narrow part being the deep end of the drum. When I tighten the lug nuts the drum is being pushed all the way into it's proper position and the new shoes are not conforming to the cone. Kind of afraid to take them to be turned since they're old and probably out of specs. Might just roll with of until the surfaces wear to each other...that's right, I'm cheap AND lazy sometimes.

 

[Earl43P]

We've heard of worse ideas.
Might want to see how hot they get after a few bed in drive sessions.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

After tightening the rims to the drums, from the back side of the backing plate, find the oblong hole and adjust the star wheel to make more slack. Then go onto a parking lot and do a bunch of back and forth stops, this adjusts the stars to where they should be.
I've also used drums that should have been turned and have had no problems. My theory is that there is more surface area so the brakes should work better.

Richard

 

[--weezl--]

i'm with floored, i don't turn drums or rotors any more unless they are obviouslty screwed or REALLY glazed, in which case it's probably just time to replace them... new rotors aren't much more than machening them now anyways...

and yes, driving around till they seat in isn't the worst that's been done, i know i've done much worse myself!

 

[bmerr98]

Follow up...it was a warped drum. Snagged one from the local Pick-a-Part and it slid right on just like you read about. Adjusted properly and rolling good as new. Thanks everyone for your input. There are some pretty smart fellows on these boards, and your expertise is much appreciated.

 

[RonD]

Thanks for the update

 

[Andy D]

Must be contagious. Rat comes home from getting some hay, and the LR is dragging, smelly and hot. The only re-used piece from the Big Brake Job was the drums and rotors. I got on the Auto Zone site, and the store 2 miles away has a brand new Chinese drum for 42$. It spins counter clockwise. the old one wouldnt unless you wiggled it. Not a big Chinese car part guy, but this thing is massive. The lip flange is about 5/8. The one on the old drum was 1/4 and missing in places. I'll prolly R+R the RR in the fullness of time.

Yah, far as I can tell just by looking looking at the old drum, the inside diameter had worn beyond spec and allowed the adjuster to cock sidewise and jam, spreading the shoes against the drum out board by the hub. and bluing the drum when it got hot. Things were very dusty, and rusty. Before I took the drum off, I looked at the AZ site. For 40$, it wasnt worth spending any longer than about 10 seconds trying to fix the drum or even fiddle with it much. I dont turn drums or rotors either. If a drum gets gouged up a little , I just slap it back on. Never had any trouble before the Rat.

 

[doorgunner]

The Drum Thread--What could go Wrong/What will go wrong!


Somebody put a "Sticky Note" on this thread (i have a short memory)!

 

[Andy D]

Whats the deal with the self adjusters? The pedal is a little mushy yet. I drove back and forth in the parking lot Doing gentle stops. Isn't that what you do to engage them? Everything is new,has less than 3 k miles, the star adjuster is free, and everything is rigged right. The truck is rolling without any drag on that wheel. This is the worst part of drum brakes for, me adjusting them . I paid 5$ at least for the cables and another 5 for the hardware. How do I make them earn their keep? TIA!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The star adjusters are threaded ccw for one side and cw for the other. You may have two the same [if bought new or used] or mounted them on the wrong side.
Mushy pedal may mean more bleeding, starting with the right rear, lr, rf, and finally lf.

Richard

 

[bmerr98]

I think the key to the self adjusters (other than being certain that all the hardware is installed properly) is manually adjusting them to a slight but undeniable drag where the drum can be turned with some effort without the wheel being in place. After that is done I believe the back and forth stop method is effective. All it takes from that point is just regular use of the parking brake to keep the shoes in proper adjustment.

I know this for sure...once you get them right it's pretty darn sweet. There's a very good video somewhere on these boards that helped me correct a mistake I was making with the slack adjuster cable. That corrected and my warped drum replaced, my drum brake problem is resolved. Hope yours is soon.

 

[Andy D]

Thanks guys, The adjuster is the same one that was in it when I bought the Rat. It was wire wheeled and greased and was free and easy. I didn't mix them up, I only work on one side at a time. The hub got hot enough to start melting the axle seal and blue up the drum. So the BF may have boiled. Bleeding is prolly a good idea.