• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Drum brakes sticking


2tonemalone

Member
Joined
May 9, 2025
Messages
9
City
Utah
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys, I bought another ranger around two months ago, a 2006 fx4. It seemed like it didnt really want to stop when braking so I replaced front pads/rotors and rear drums/shoes/cylinders. The pedal feel was still horrible and had a whoosh coming from busted diaphragm in the brake booster, thus I replaced the booster and master cylinder. System has been fully bled by me (8 big bottles of brake fluid) while finding leaks but there is still give in the peddle until the brakes actually engage. When the truck is cool it seems when I press the pedal too far the shoes have an audible release from the drums but when it’s hot the drums will sometimes fully freeze up and prevent the truck from moving and then drag when they finally release. My buddy and me have had 5 rangers before this one and we’re both stumped as to why and I’d appreciate any input.
 
Is the ebrake working correctly and adjusted properly? Sometimes this can catch a bit and get worse when hot if not releasing fully or too tight to begin with.
 
are the parking brake cables sticking?

you can remove just one drum and watch the cylinder/shoes move when pressing the pedal.
should retract too.
don't push the pedal too far that the cylinders pop open.
 
are the parking brake cables sticking?

you can remove just one drum and watch the cylinder/shoes move when pressing the pedal.
should retract too.
don't push the pedal too far that the cylinders pop open.
I didn’t even think to check this, I will tomorrow. My thought process was that if the cable was stuck then it would cause a permanent sticking or would it also cause the intermittent sticking? Just from the Walmart parking lot check in the dark the cable seems loose going into the drum
 
If you're sure there is no air... and the pedal has free play ... you need to adjust the rear brakes.
 
If you're sure there is no air... and the pedal has free play ... you need to adjust the rear brakes.
Well that’s the weird thing, I’ve had them at various stages of tightness( too tight too loose just right) and the sticking problem still persists and will hold the truck back until I give it some gas and the shoes release
 
I didn’t even think to check this, I will tomorrow. My thought process was that if the cable was stuck then it would cause a permanent sticking or would it also cause the intermittent sticking? Just from the Walmart parking lot check in the dark the cable seems loose going into the drum
I'm in the rust belt, so sticky cables are a way of life.
even if the cable is stuck inside the housing the whole gizmo will feel loose. you have to actually see the inner cable going in 'n out.
they can get stuck when the parking brake is applied, then not release when released. during driving the cables get bounced around and they may release then.
but that's only if you're lucky and the springs like you. :icon_thumby:
 
Another long-shot thing to check, is the shoe contact pads on the brake backing plate; I think that there's 6 of these per side. You should see a stamped cross-hatch pattern (which are there to retain a little bit of brake grease), and you should NOT see grooves that have been worn into a contact pad by the shoe edge.

Grooves worn into the contact pads can prevent the shoe from moving freely; the shoes have to easily slide back and forth on these pads.

The shoe contact pads should always be cleaned, and a tiny dab of brake grease applied, whenever the brake shoes are changed.
 
I'm in the rust belt, so sticky cables are a way of life.
even if the cable is stuck inside the housing the whole gizmo will feel loose. you have to actually see the inner cable going in 'n out.
they can get stuck when the parking brake is applied, then not release when released. during driving the cables get bounced around and they may release then.
but that's only if you're lucky and the springs like you. :icon_thumby:
Im under the truck right now and it seems like both cables are moving freely and the springs can operate as they should. Actuating the parking brake with one drum off makes the front shoe move outward and lock the drum
 
Pictures...
IMG_3396.jpeg
IMG_3395.jpeg
IMG_3397.jpeg
 
Looks like a nice clean job...

Were the backing plates grooved up?

I'll tell you... I've had issues with rear brakes locking up on these. I run my adjustment on the tighter side. I have a theory that with the adjustment loose... under light braking... the distance the shoes have to travel... when the primary shoe touches and self energizes... the fluid that held the secondary shoe out gets displaced onto the primary shoe and locks up. These trucks being so light in the rear amplifies things too.

Is it just one side... or both sides that misbehave?
 
Looks like a nice clean job...

Were the backing plates grooved up?

I'll tell you... I've had issues with rear brakes locking up on these. I run my adjustment on the tighter side. I have a theory that with the adjustment loose... under light braking... the distance the shoes have to travel... when the primary shoe touches and self energizes... the fluid that held the secondary shoe out gets displaced onto the primary shoe and locks up. These trucks being so light in the rear amplifies things too.

Is it just one side... or both sides that misbehave?
The backing plates don’t seem to be grooved up and they still have the grease on them from when I rebuilt them. Both sides don’t have an issue when I first start the truck but as I drive they go from audible clunking, to a violent jolt that I have to give gas to release and then finally, as if yesterday, a complete and total lock up that prevents the truck from moving until I can coax it back. I’ve been seeing a few posts about ABS units failing and preventing pressure release from a singular line, do you think that could be a possibility?
 
Get it to act up...

You'll need a helper... but crack a bleeder when locked up and see if there is pressure.

Did you happen to replace the rear brake hose?

Those will/can fail and act like a check valve.
 
Get it to act up...

You'll need a helper... but crack a bleeder when locked up and see if there is pressure.

Did you happen to replace the rear brake hose?

Those will/can fail and act like a check valve.
So i was putting the wheels back on about to give up for the day and I noticed the passengers side spins easy and then becomes harder to spin and then easy again, could it possibly be a warped or out of spec drum causing the issue?

When it starts giving me trouble again I’ll carry a wrench with me to crack the bleeder
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top