Drum brake upgrade

[e21pilot]

Time for a rear brake job on both my 1992 4.0 Rangers. One has the original axle with 10" drums and the other an '07 31 spline axle that I swapped in -- also with 10" drums.

Was thinking about using the finned 95 Aerostar drums but wondered if something even better came along in the later years. Also, is there a Motorcraft kit out there that replaces everything: shoes, cylinder, springs, etc? At over 20 years old, I sure it's time.

 

[TxGasRacer]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ford_ranger_rear_disc_brake_conversion.shtml

 

[e21pilot]

Yes, the rear disc brake option is certainly the ultimate in braking.

For my budget and time constraints, I was thinking of putting the best drum combination I could find since I know there were better drum setups than what came on the Rangers from the factory.

The $$$ I save sticking with drums in the rear might go to a possible disc upgrade in the front where I think I might get better bang for my braking buck.

 

[rangerbum]

If you have a 31 spline 8.8 just get the disc brake parts from a 95-01 explorer. You'll have to pull your axle shafts, remove your backing plates, and bolt on the factory parts from the explorer. I'd personally put on new calipers, and obviously new pads and rotors. Only other thing you might need is brake line across the axle, which is cheap and easy to bend up yourself with a bending tool($20 at a local parts store). Then set up your parking brake cable and you are golden.

By the way, set up the parking brake shoes and assembly without the axleshafts in. It's a headache if you don't.

The Explorer setup will be substantially better than the 10" drums, and not take too much more investment to make it happen.

 

[e21pilot]

Thanks for the suggestion on the explorer disc swap.

In the days of my youth, I swapped drums to discs on a German sedan and found I had to do some customization of the proportioning valve to get the car to brake correctly afterward.

I would think this would be an even bigger problem with the Ranger. Is this not the case or does the rear ABS factor in here?

 

[James86]

If you have a 31 spline 8.8 just get the disc brake parts from a 95-01 explorer. You'll have to pull your axle shafts, remove your backing plates, and bolt on the factory parts from the explorer. I'd personally put on new calipers, and obviously new pads and rotors. Only other thing you might need is brake line across the axle, which is cheap and easy to bend up yourself with a bending tool($20 at a local parts store). Then set up your parking brake cable and you are golden.

I've seen this suggested, but wonder if you have to adjust the proportioning valve since the back brakes will be significantly better than stock.

 

[e21pilot]

My thinking is any time the braking action changes (front or rear), the proportioning valve would need adjustment.

Would be interested to hear what others say as I am no expert on the subject.

 

[RangerSVT]

If you want a bolt on upgrade, I've got a fairly new complete 11" drum setup, all almost new hardware (drums, shoes & spring kit) for sale in the classifieds...

SVT

 

[e21pilot]

My 92 Ranger has the stock 15" steel wheels. Am I correct that the 11" drums require a 16" wheel fitment?

 

[RangerSVT]

Depending on the offset rim. I was able to fit stock 15" ranger rims...

SVT

 

[e21pilot]

I'll keep the 11" drums in mind. What year Ranger are those from?

Re: the propo valve, there appears to be one on the early 90s Rangers like mine.

The big question: is it adjustable and if so, what does it take to do this properly?

 

[RangerSVT]

2001 sport trac. The brakes were completely redone this year, probably less than 100 miles on them...

SVT

 

[Mac]

If you want to stay with the drum brakes, just go to a performance type over the OEM. A good set is almost like having discs. Surprising but a '94' Ranger shares the same brakes as a '66-69' Fairlane or Mustang with the 10" x 2 1/2". Porterfield makes a street set of semi-metallic that a lot of early Mustang trackers use instead of going to disc brakes.
Dave

 

[e21pilot]

Thanks for the suggestions. I've decided to lean toward the disc brake upgrade for one reason: I do a lot of driving in the Pacific Northwest where it rains a lot and the discs will be certain to perform better than the drums in those wet conditions.

Still not clear to me whether an adjustment needs to made to the propo valve -- or even if an adjustment is possible/necessary given the ABS in the rear only on my truck.

 

[PlumCrazy]

When I swapped mine, I ran the stock 95 Ranger master cylinder and removed the rear prop valve all together.

I have since bumped to bigger calipers all the way around and a much larger master cyl (1.3125")and hydroboost, but still no prop valve. I have no issues with the rear locking up or grabbing too early.