Drum Brake Re-assembly Issues

[Stvns402]

Hi All,

I'm having some issues with the re-assembly of the passenger side rear brakes. I replaced the driver's side rear shoe assembly with no problems, and it functions properly.

With the brake shoe adjuster (star gear) at the lowest setting, I first assembled the passenger side rear brakes, and the shoes seemed to not retract all the way and get stuck open. Also, the left side shoe seemed to move before the right side when pressing on the brake. I took it out for a ride, and sure enough, the drum was hot even at the lowest adjustment setting, probably because the shoes were not retracting all the way.

Any ideas to why the shoes would seem to bind up and not retract?

After this, I dis-assembled the passenger shoes again, and putting it back together it almost seems as if length of parking brake cable is shorter on the passenger side than the driver's side.

Could this be holding the passenger side shoes out too far initially? If so, is there any way to make just the passenger side cable longer to relieve the tension?

Let me know if you have any ideas. Thanks!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Seized ebrake cables can cause this or the pistons in the wheel cylinders can seize.

 

[Stvns402]

I took a closer look at the wheel cylinder and there was no fluid leakage, and if I pushed on one side, the other side would move out. This led me to believe that it was not seized, or blown. Is this a valid assumption?

So, here is my other thought. The old passenger side brakes worked fine before I dis-assembled them, even when pulling and releasing the parking brake. When I re-assembled them, I tried pulling the parking brake, and the shoes seemed to get stuck outward, and not retract. I'm wondering now after re-assembly if somehow one side, the passenger side, cable is getting hung up coincidentally.

Would it help to cycle the parking brake a few time to see if it will release that one side? And pulling the parking brake has no affect on hydraulic pressure, so I don't have to worry about pushing the wheel cylinder pistons out, correct?

 

[Mark_88]

Correct...the parking brake does not affect the wheel cylinder...

Probably a seized cable...pressing and releasing the parking brake cable might cause it to free up...but if you don't use the PB it is just a matter of time before it happens again...once moisture is inside the cable the rust happens...frequent use helps to keep it from sticking though...

 

[Stvns402]

Okay, thanks Mark. I tried cycling the parking brake, and saw very minimal movement in the cable at the drum, and did not get it to free up. Is it okay to just disconnect the parking cable and let it hang in the drum, to fix at some later date? I was looking at the assembly and I seems as if I should be able to work the brakes without the cable attached. I just don't want want it to get caught up in anything.

Now, with the shoes back together, the left shoe is still sticking, and not retracting all the way back, the right shoe retracts fully. It kind of gets stuck in a upward and out position. I cleaned the surfaces that the shoe slides on to clear any gunk there.

Any ideas to why this might be happening, or what I can do to make it retract all the way?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Did you install a new spring hardware kit? The old springs might be fatigued.

 

[Stvns402]

Yes, I bought a new hardware kit and installed it. I ended up just leaving the parking brake cable unhooked, and the rear brakes seem to work fine now. Drove a few miles and the drums weren't hot. Hopefully, this won't be a problem with the parking brake cable dangling?

I think that the parking brake cable became stuck with too much tension when I was working on the brakes because when I started the truck, the parking brake light was on. I cycled it a few times with much larger force and the light turned off. I'm wondering if that finally released the cable. I'll have to wait another week to pull drum off to see.

 

[Mark_88]

Did you apply brake grease to the surfaces where the brakes meet the backplate? That helps them move freely and prevents sticking...

I was going to do my new brake cables with brake grease but didn't get a chance to when I was putting them on...can't get very far up the cable anyway...but it might help to keep moisture out if there is some sort of sealant near the ends...providing, of course, that they don't touch the muffler system or get worn on the shocks...which was what happened to the originals...

Routing them and tying them off away from things sure is a good preventative step...

 

[Stvns402]

I cleaned up the backing with steel wool and PB Blaster. As long as the shoes don't get too far out, they retract back in. The drums are preventing them from going out too far. I'll just have to get back into the brakes to see if the parking brake has release on that side.

 

[Mark_88]

I used to just clean mine up and not use anything else...but then I discovered that caliper sliders and brake shoes work much better when lubricated...my front discs used to lock up on me until I tried this...haven't had any problems with them for nearly two years now...probably time to dab some more on them now that they've been through two winters and as much moisture and grit as could be tossed at them...

 

[Hagan]

Do you have a picture of the brakes?

A suggestion I have is swap drums and see if you have the same issue. You sometimes never know what you get from auto part stores.