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Dropping the gas tank


Hellcat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2010
Messages
60
Transmission
Automatic
92 Ranger any tricks to make this job eaiser ????
 
Take the bed off and work from the top.. Much easier thataway.
Big Jim
 
Yea, one or the other. Getting the bed off is easy. Getting it back on and straight are a little more challenging. If you go this route, park your truck and don't move it untill you are done. Use a plumb bob to mark the floor around the truck from repeatable landmarks on the bed. This way, you can reallign it exactly the way it came off.

If you drop the tank, wash the heck out of it before you start and siphon all the fuel. The hardest thing is probably getting the little skid plate bolts out. You can to it this way without help. Pulling the bed takes a few friends to help.
 
Don't even bother with dropping the tank. Take the bed off. It's so easy you'll be thrilled when you realize how much backache and rust in the eye you saved yourself. All you need is two guys to get it on and off. Ask a neighbor, it literally takes 2 minutes to lift off, and probably about 3 to put back on. It's no big deal getting it lined up after, it just takes a little wiggling around.
 
I like to get under the truck bed and using a ratttle can I PAINT several marker spots on the bottom of the bed.. Then when reinstalling I simply move the bed to where all the painted spots line up!!! There ya have it.
Big JIm
 
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I will be doing this one alone. I am thinking the bed could be the easier method. I was thinking of using the hillbilly cherry picker to lift it off. I have a 4x4 and every bolt is rusted and I REALLY don't want to start breaking them then replacing them.
 
Juice up the bed bolts LOTS and give it time to soak Do it from Under the bed at the frame rail, since thats where its going to be rusted, doing it from the top is pointless. Old bed bolts LOVE to break.

Doing this alone simply means you tilt the bed backwards like you would a dump truck and slide it to the ground. you will need to wiggle it over the bumper first. Getting it back on is harder without 2 people. you are going to be walking around the bed alot moving it a few inches here and there till you have it all lined back up.
 
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If you had a first gen, you could sciphen the gas out! =D fun! I did it for my ATV, I need gas and since it wasn't movin, and the ATV's engine will burn anything (even bad gas, its one tough mama!) I filled up the ATV.

I kinda forgot that over the time I filled the gas tank with the last bit of a gallon we had left in the gas tank for the ATV, I never realised I would fill the tank all the way!? it was up to the cap!

Oh, they have locking gas caps at the outlet for $6 each, should I buy one for the truck for shits and giggles?
 
Oh, they have locking gas caps at the outlet for $6 each, should I buy one for the truck for shits and giggles?

Locks only keep an honest man honest. A determined idiot will break anything if it means getting what he wants.

Back on subject....lol. I agree with the previous statements. Use copious amounts of PB Blaster or whatever you prefer to use on them bed bolts. They can be a real pain in the rear. Last time I took a bed off, a 4ft breaker bar and probably a couple cans worth of PB Blaster is what I ended up using, got real lucky that the bolts didn't bust.
 
I am going through this to replace a weak fuel pump. I have already tried the easy fixes fuel filter, fuel regulator, checked the injectors, etc, etc. I am still running low pressure, the only thing left that I can think of is the pump it's self. If anyone has any other ideas before I start pulling the bed off and my hair out <lol> I would appreciate hearing them.
Thanks
Jess
 
There is no real easy way to replace the fuel pump, unless you don't care about the box and sawzall the bed above the tank's pump access point. if the tank is empty, all there are are 2 hangers that need to be loosened and D/C the lines after it drops. what really makes this problem interesting is the lack of room uner the truck to remove the tank. getting it out isn't that hard, placing it back in by yourself is the harder part. if you have acess to a pit this helps greatly. getting your hands up into the palces where the bolts hold the hangers can be trying.

cheers
 
I am going through this to replace a weak fuel pump. I have already tried the easy fixes fuel filter, fuel regulator, checked the injectors, etc, etc. I am still running low pressure, the only thing left that I can think of is the pump it's self. If anyone has any other ideas before I start pulling the bed off and my hair out <lol> I would appreciate hearing them.
Thanks
Jess

What pressure do you have now?

Louis
 
I am going through this to replace a weak fuel pump. I have already tried the easy fixes fuel filter, fuel regulator, checked the injectors, etc, etc. I am still running low pressure, the only thing left that I can think of is the pump it's self. If anyone has any other ideas before I start pulling the bed off and my hair out <lol> I would appreciate hearing them.
Thanks
Jess

what preesur do you have koeo, koer. Ho w long does the pressure stay after the truck is shut off...here is a write up for the bed

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks
4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator
I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed my 2 Men. a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter hile the bed is off. tool required or equivalent 5/16 FF performance tool W83130

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.
 
I didnt even need to take my bed all the way off to mess with the pump....I just slid it back on some wood:icon_thumby:
IMG_0197.jpg
 

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