Dropping carrier bearing on 2pc dshafts and funky camber issues!

[t0x1k]

So I couldn't decide if this fit in transmissions, or 4x4 tech, or axles.

So, I just finished putting my lift on in the rear and it netted me 1.5" with shackles, and 3" with AAL + stock 2" blocks = 6.5" of lift total.
Now I have a shudder from acceleration until about 10 mph. I figure its the drive shaft angle. My question is, what's the proper way of doing this?
I didn't look, but is that cross-member bolted in or riveted? Can I just install some 2" 1/4 tube as drop brackets/spacers?

On to the next problem. My camber issues.

In this picture the truck is sitting with a bit of negative camber. As soon I start driving a serious issue of positive camber comes. I'm talking probably 5+ degrees.
I'm running an older superlift 5.5" kit with 1" spacers. You can also see it has some rake in the picture, but once I drive and park it, it's level and all whacked out.
I'm buying some Moog adjustable 4 degree bushings and see if they help any, if not I'll just remove the spacers and run smaller ones.

Wait...I think I know why I've got issues, it's got some toe in, so there fore the toe in wants to push the truck up...I back the truck up the driveway resulting in driving with toe out causing the truck to drag the front downward...

 

[nate09]

most guys switch to a 1 piece shaft with that much lift. hows youre steering angle?

 

[-Nathan-]

The vibration is from your 2 piece driveshaft. I had the same issue, so I cut out the carrier bearing with a grinder (cross member and all) as well as trimmed the gas tank skid plate a couple inches. Then I bolted in a 1 piece steel driveshaft from a 1998 ranger. I installed new u joints, but other than that it was a bolt in affair. Do your drop brackets have 2 sets of holes? My superlift brackets do...

 

[t0x1k]

most guys switch to a 1 piece shaft with that much lift. hows youre steering angle?

Steerring angle is fine, I have a drop arm.

The vibration is from your 2 piece driveshaft. I had the same issue, so I cut out the carrier bearing with a grinder (cross member and all) as well as trimmed the gas tank skid plate a couple inches. Then I bolted in a 1 piece steel driveshaft from a 1998 ranger. I installed new u joints, but other than that it was a bolt in affair. Do your drop brackets have 2 sets of holes? My superlift brackets do...

So basically you're saying all I need is the driveshaft? No adapters or anything? I was hoping to not have to do anymore swapping, it's getting a little old. But if you say I gotta Remove the crossmember anyway I'll try dropping it first and see what happens, if not then I'll just buy a driveshaft along with a new 8.8 rear end

 

[-Nathan-]

I got mine from a junkyard for like 70$ i think, if you have to drop the cross member anyway...save yourself the hassle and just bolt in a 1 piece shaft. Its worth it, believe me.

 

[adsm08]

So basically you're saying all I need is the driveshaft?

Yup. Just make sure that you find a donor with the super cab. Wheel base makes a difference, but I did some leg work about 6 months ago, all the super cab trucks have the same wheel base.

 

[t0x1k]

Actually I found out the vibration, the rubber in the carrier bearing has degraded and there's a lot of play and the extran angle of the driveshaft is now exaggerating the vibration.
I also fixed my camber issue by dialing the alignment bushings to the maximum negative camber and zero caster setting and it drives just fine. I think it has after market bushings as theres no keeper tab and they are what looks like 3 degree bushings.