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Drop tank or bed?


JimRummy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2010
Messages
204
Age
39
City
Los Angeles, CA
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
Looks like I have to drop the tank and/or remove the bed to get to the bottom of this Issue I'm having (Filler neck/tank seal? Post) , and bottom line what is the better option?
thanks
 
With a supercab, drop the tank. The seal is pretty much right at/under the gap, and this way you can do a more thorough rust inspection/treat while you're in there. I know I had some rust starting behind my tank that I wasn't able to entirely get to with it in place...

You can also get to the pump/sending unit a lot easier on the supercabs with the tank out.
 
It depends on the condition of the truck. If there is any real rust on the underside I prefer to drop the tank. If the underside is clean, or just a surface patina, pulling the bed is usually easier. Especially if you have three or four friends.
 
Ok cool, thanks guys. The body/frame condition is pristine, so it sounds like I'll be removing the bed. I'm not a huge fan of trying to freestyle 're-align stuff. It'll probably just be my brother and I. Anything to look out for?
 
Yeah, the bed is heavy, and long, and the surface you pick it up by is a pinch weld. You will want at least 3 guys for stability, and you will probably want to wear some good work gloves when you lift it.
 
I found that dropping the tank is a bigger PITA. And it's VERY heavy when full. I use the floor-jack to lift the tank's rear end while trying to forcibly jam it into place above the darn cross-member.

OTOH, my sweetie & I easily lifted the bed off, by hand. It's mostly me doing the lifting, she was mostly just for stability, cuz it's kinda bulky & awkward b/c of its size. Remove the heavy tailgate beforehand, and especially remove the mudflaps so you can set it down flat on the ground. Otherwise, you'll have to stand the bed up on its end.

Another clever alternative is hoist & prop up the bed w/o fully removing it. IOW, somebody here shifted his bed rear-ward by about 2', and then used wooden lumber to prop it up about a foot above the frame, giving access to tank.
 
I pulled the bed, and I did it by myself. I used tie down straps up to the rafters in my garage. Lifted the bed up and yanked on the straps at the same time. Had it unbolted and off in a half an hour.


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Yeah I got it off yesterday, pretty painless. Looks like the was a pretty nice sized crack where the fuel was able to leak out at the 45° bend where the filler neck meets the tank. The crack is on the left side, facing the fuel door. What's the best/safest way/material to patch that? Not really looking to spend $140 for a spectre filler neck..
 
I have seen them on eBay much cheaper


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, but I've had instances in the past of getting an after market parts labeled and sold as motorcraft. I try to avoid that all together if I had to. Plus I don't have 2 weeks to wait with the bed off to get this done...
 
Yeah I was lucky. I have a step side and they have a separate vent tube. I just went down to the local auto parts store and bought a 2' length of fill hose and cut it to fit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'll probably try the self healing rubber tape I have.. Ford wants $480 and AutoZone wants $140 for a spectre one. Honestly I have never had a AutoZone part last more then a couple years... And I worked there for a while.. its mostly junk, and the warranty and refunds daily speak for themselves. I'd get a junk yard one but I think it being 22 years old was part of the problem..
I don't want to redo this in 3 years, I had to remove my tool box, bedliner and bed. Not hard, but annoying... getting around the garage is getting to be a mofo..
IMAG4158_zpsigr4slec.jpg
 
Last edited:
Interesting. Mine has a steel piece that joins with the rubber that the plastic filler piece goes through..
IMAG4159_zps1cpvksk3.jpg
 

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