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driveshaft removal


DandysRanger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
139
City
North of Atlanta
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
My credo
If you didn't build it; it's not really yours
Hey gang, Pulling the trans today. I got all the bellhousing bolts out and am ready to drop the driveshaft. The problem is those darn pinion bolts are really on there! I am using a 1/2 impact on full juice and they have not budged. I have them soaking in liquid wrench now while I contemplate my plan of attack. I tried some heat too but so far nothing.

Ideas? These are not reverse threaded are they?

BTW the top bellhousing bolts are a PITA.
 
Hang a 12mm 12pt wrench on them, put your foot on the wrench, hold on to the frame and push. Never had on that wouldnt come loose that way. :icon_thumby:


No, They arent reverse thread.
 
Thank snoranger. How do you keep the wheels from turning when you do that?
I can't believe how stuck these are. I am afraid of messing up the heads on these bolts if I hit them too much with the impact and I definitely don't want a broken bolt.
I am thinking of applying more heat and then trying your idea. I'll have my teenage son grab onto the wheel to keep it from turning.
 
heat the bolts (one at a time) with a propane torch until you see a distinct "puff of white smoke" from where the threads go into the pinion flange

The factory bolts are installed with pre-applied Loctite

Loctite decomposes at 350-400F

Heat ONE bolt until you see that "puff" unscrew the bolt, allow things to cool off
then do the next one.

If you get the flange too hot you can ruin the pinion seal


AD
 
heat the bolts (one at a time) with a propane torch until you see a distinct "puff of white smoke" from where the threads go into the pinion flange

The factory bolts are installed with pre-applied Loctite

Loctite decomposes at 350-400F

Heat ONE bolt until you see that "puff" unscrew the bolt, allow things to cool off
then do the next one.

If you get the flange too hot you can ruin the pinion seal


AD

That worked perfectly.
Thanks:icon_thumby:
 
Anyone got a sticky or link to pics to remove the driveshaft?

Why do you need pictures? Take bolts out, pull hard, don't get hit in face. That's about all there really is to tell about it.
 
Why do you need pictures? Take bolts out, pull hard, don't get hit in face. That's about all there really is to tell about it.

Important step :)

I've had good luck with just 30 seconds with a butane torch myself, and a long handled 12pt 12mm wrench, and maybe a dead blow hammer or another wrench :)

To keep the wheels from turning, put the parking brake on, and/or the engine in gear
 
One thing I noticed is that when you are putting it back in the bolts for the DS to pinion need to be clean. I had a heck of a time getting the bolts to snug up. I had to take them out and wire-brush all the crap out of the threads. Much easier going back in and, of course I used fresh Loctite.
 
Important step :)

I've had good luck with just 30 seconds with a butane torch myself, and a long handled 12pt 12mm wrench, and maybe a dead blow hammer or another wrench :)

To keep the wheels from turning, put the parking brake on, and/or the engine in gear

Haha. Did you read the saga about me trying to get the rear shaft out of my BII?

Butane torch, propane torch, one bent cheater wrench, one busted up knee, 10 sore and skinned knuckles, oh, and with it in gear I almost ran over myself when it started rolling off as I pushed on the wrench with my feet. Had to get the wife to start the engine and hold the brakes because I was turning the engine over backwards with the driveshaft bolts.
 

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