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Driveshaft fit year ranges and a bit more...


Ranger Sport Honduras

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Joined
Nov 16, 2008
Messages
15,061
Age
39
City
Honduras
Vehicle Year
2003
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Fortune Favors the Brave
As some of u know, im collecting parts for a SAS.
im using a BW 1350M, that came off a 90-91 Ranger.

Gettin drive shafts around here seems like a royal pain in the:annoyed:

Theres a gen1 BII that im trying to get the driveshafts from.
if not ill have to order them from the states with a store that does that deal, but the shafts will be as expensive as the transmission was.

What i need to know is what year range had the same t case outputs i have, so i know what year driveshafts to look for. and what years were steel and what aluminim, since i want a steel one in case i have to extend/shorten it.

front
310361_10150357844904823_658704822_8411753_1602603129_n.jpg

back
316298_10150357844774823_658704822_8411751_33960778_n.jpg


theres a couple good fellas from here that offered me to ship me the front one, since it the hardest to get.
i tried looking for the rear one around here with no luck.

i found a rear 96 ext cab on ebay, and got a quote on it.
but i need to shorten it.
 
front shaft? explorer shaft is what is commonly used there for a SAS. whats your T case out of? try an explorer rear shaft too!
 
A gen 1 B2 will be a good donor for the front shaft. You can probably do better for a rear shaft. An Explorer rear shaft would be better, but will still need modified more than likely.

Is your's a long bed or short bed? Your wheel base is going to to be the biggest factor.

I have the front shaft you need, and a 1st gen Explorer rear shaft out in the garage. Yours if you want them, I just need to make sure the front one will work. It's from an FM145.
 
Last edited:
mines a short bed.
i found an explorer rear shaft, but the guy asks too much and its alum, so shortening it will be expensive.

i assume all rear flanges are the same?

Quote the shipping to San Pedro Sula, Honduras
zip code: 21104
Ill pay the shipping.
i assume ull need ups or dhl.
 
The rear flanges were all standardized in the mid 90s so the 7.5 and 8.8 are the same. I think the t-case were always the same. I'll check the flanges that I have around to make sure the bolt spacing will work properly.

I'll have to get in the garage and get them out, check everything, and get real dimensions and weight. I estimated on UPS's website and it came back over $500 just for shipping. :icon_surprised:
 
The rear flanges were all standardized in the mid 90s so the 7.5 and 8.8 are the same. I think the t-case were always the same. I'll check the flanges that I have around to make sure the bolt spacing will work properly.

I'll have to get in the garage and get them out, check everything, and get real dimensions and weight. I estimated on UPS's website and it came back over $500 just for shipping. :icon_surprised:

:shok:

i just got a quote from another member for the front one with usps for $82
maybe u could try that one. :icon_thumby:
 
:shok:

i just got a quote from another member for the front one with usps for $82
maybe u could try that one. :icon_thumby:

Yeah. Like I said, I'll have to get better numbers once I can get in the garage. I'm kinda sick right now.
 
i hope u get better.
and ill go to my mail office to ask hows the deal when someone sends me stuff on usps.
 
We know you better than that, tell us the whole story here.

Did your impact take you for a ride?

No, just a little sinus infection. Bright, slimy, gooey-green sinus infection. Problem with those is that I have inner ear issues from a bad ear infection I had when I was about 12. That means that anything that plugs up my head gives me bad vertigo.

Plus I have no electricity in the garage and thanks to going back to standard time yesterday it was dark out before I was out of the shower. Makes it hard to find things in the mess. I know right where the Explorer shaft is, wouldn't need a light to find it. How many things I'd trip over on my way to it.... that's another question.
 
Just got notice on something.
USPS cant deliver here, because they dont have vehicles here.
ill go ask to my post office how it could be done, but im not sure since my mail isnt the safest
im sensing a big NO :annoyed:

but there has to be a safe way, and ill find it
 
Ok. driveshaft related: i cant find a Damn 4wd rear driveshaft anywhere in this lame city.
so, my twisted mind came to an idea, but i wanna check if its doable.

theres an isuzu or toyota light duty truck driveshaft thats 47 inches, the lenght i need, i might just need it shortened like half inch,but it has no u joint flanges. it has the telescopic thing that i need on the 4wd shaft. but the flanges that bolts to the diferential and trans are missing.
i thought about buying it and gettin a shop to fab em up for me. but thats expensive.

Today i had a better idea: cut the dif flange with u joint form my alum shaft, and weld it on the isuzu one. thats cheapier than gettin it made and buying isuzu u joints.
but heres the thing:
I dont know if i can remove the u joint thing or flange that goes on the other side?
my shaft has this on the trans side:
IMG_2796.jpg


so im wondering if i can do something like this, so i can use that flange to weld it on the new driveshaft.
125283d1238238623-help-my-ford-ranger-tranny-cimg0106.jpg
125285d1238238623-help-my-ford-ranger-tranny-cimg0108.jpg
[/IMG]

since my moms truck wont be driven i could take that driveshaft borrowed for a couple days until i finish my custom shaft and install the 4wd trans.
i wanted to leave my 2wd shaft intact so i could sell it, but seems like ill have to sacrifice it.
i hope u get my idea, and give me a bit of light, because i have no more options.
 

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