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Driveline Fitment


How much vertical travel should i expect form the drivers side d35 beam?

Half inch worked for me, 10yo factory replacement springs.

Wow... that would be a hard pass for me on that t-case. I wonder if a 208 would fit better? I went with a 205 for the same reason, frame clearance. You have to be OK with a clunky, noisy gear driven t-case though in that case.

From my extrapulations a Ford NP208 t-case wouldn't be a whole lot better. You can trim a nub off the end that doesn't matter but they are still tight.

My only complaint on the 205 is the low range, with my M5ODR2 it could be a lot deeper.

The twin stick modification though, OMG I love that. I wish everything that that kind of a mode.

Someday mine might grow a third stick (doubler)

whats a smaller chain driven option

Rumer has it, according to @bobbywalter old Jeep Wagoneers used a smaller chain drive 208 t-case. But you have to swap the rear output bits to get a Ford speedometer to work. I have yet to see one in the yard 6 years later so needless to say I didn't go down that road.
 
Checking back in to see if you made any headway with the 1356 fitment? Have you tried clocking it yet?
 
Checking back in to see if you made any headway with the 1356 fitment? Have you tried clocking it yet?
Been at a stand still with spring here and business picking up. Need to finish the floor pans n my cab to set it and see if clocking it will clear the floor - if so have to make new linkage. I’ll get another round of the bug here soon and make more headway
 
What's the width of a BW1354?
Are 1356/1354 same bolt pattern/input spline count?
 
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I started out wanting to do a 208, the fitment bothered me greatly so I opted for a NP205 instead.



Do watch your front driveshaft clearance especially when you are clocking it. You can run into exhaust clearance issues very fast, especially with a D35 and factory springs (pinion is higher than a D28)

I used a factory '95 Ranger front driveshaft, the flex boot ended up right where the exhaust came down. A older style with just a seal would fit better (I had a rear driveshaft from a bullnose Bronco that would have been better but I gave it away before I knew I needed it)
How'd you come across your 205?
 
Checking back in to see if you made any headway with the 1356 fitment? Have you tried clocking it yet?
Too much clocking will shift the oil bath so I am weary
 
IMG_0205.jpeg

BW4406 does in fact fit in 83-88 frame
 
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Much better fit than the 1356. Good to see this. Hard to see the vertical clearance with frame from this angle but looks like there is plenty! Looks to be a manual unit with speed sensor from a 99-03 donor? How are you planning to handle the speedometer?
 
Much better fit than the 1356. Good to see this. Hard to see the vertical clearance with frame from this angle but looks like there is plenty! Looks to be a manual unit with speed sensor from a 99-03 donor? How are you planning to handle the speedometer?
I’ve got the mechanical Speedo tail housing. Just bolted it up to see if it was worth changing still
 
IMG_0204.jpeg
IMG_0207.jpeg

Small tab broke off in shipping - I would have cut it off anyhow. Front shaft line looks a lot better now as well
 
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I also have a 4406 in my shed to use as an option. Came out of a '99 F150 with the speed sensor so will need to convert it as well. In addition to the tailshaft I believe you will need to swap the output shaft or machine it to accept a worm gear.
 
I also have a 4406 in my shed to use as an option. Came out of a '99 F150 with the speed sensor so will need to convert it as well. In addition to the tailshaft I believe you will need to swap the output shaft or machine it to accept a worm gear.
Machining will involve milling a "radii'd"? channel for the drive gear ball bearing to locate in correct?
 
that sounds like serious machine shop stuff. not stuff to be done with the grinder on the bench, ha ha ha
 
that sounds like serious machine shop stuff. not stuff to be done with the grinder on the bench, ha ha ha
I am a machinist in a CNC shop
 

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