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Drive plate and rebuild questions


Johnnyboiranger22

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
226
Age
29
City
St Petersburg, FL
Vehicle Year
1991
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
215/75/14
So I've finally got my engine yanked out last week,Immediately i notices a blue torque convert(yanked drive-plate out with torque converter) which means someone has been in there before and probably have a rebuilt trans in there. got to it today and working on it and i cant get the dame drive-plate bolts off not with a air compressor torque wrench or a second person I should have disconnected all of that before remove but Its out. My question is how the hell do i get them off now? Here is some pics of my project
 

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You should never use a torque wrench to remove a bolt. It isn't good for the mechanism.

How big is your compressor? You may not be moving enough air.

If all else fails, have one person hold the crank by the bolt, and use a breaker bar with a jack handle over it to knock those suckers loose.
 
Stick a screwdriver or something in one of the torque converter stud holes in the flex plate and use a breaker bar on the bolts, let the flex plate rotate until it hits the block somewhere to stop rotation.

AMDS, I'm thinking he meant air impact not torque wrench... The bolts should only be in to about 65 ftlb but probably have loctite on them so that's understandable, some impacts are wimpy.
 
AMDS, I'm thinking he meant air impact not torque wrench... The bolts should only be in to about 65 ftlb but probably have loctite on them so that's understandable, some impacts are wimpy.

I'm pretty sure that's what he meant too. I don't care about what was meant as much as what was said.
 
As suggested above, jam the flex plate using a TC bolt hole, and then use a breaker bar and a length of metal pipe. Slip the pipe over the handle end of the breaker bar to increase your leverage. You will eventually have to break loose the bolt on the front end of the crankshaft if you plan on disassembling the engine, so might want to consider breaking that loose while you have the flex plate bolt holes to keep the crankshaft from rotating before removing the flex plate.
If that does not work, remove the oil pan, and use a chunk of 2X4 wood between the block and a crankshaft throw or weight to jam the crankshaft while you break the flex plate bolts loose.
The picture sure looked as if the converter studs had been cut off with a hacksaw when I first looked. Even looks that way now. That would be an expensive mistake if it was done.
tom
 
Thanks guys for the replies will tackle this engine with you guys ideas as soon as I get home, air compressor I have is only 100psi gun can handle 250lb ft but air compressor is wimpy.
 
Got it on the stand! engine rebuilding starts this weekened
 

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What method did you end up using?

I had my neighbor put a socket and wrench on one bolt and i went to opposite direction and put my socket and breaker bar and had him hold down while i pull up, broke all loose but it left one that i could not find anything to keep crank from spinning. I made up some conjunction with a harmonic bolt puller and put it on the harmonic balancer and tightened it so tight it wouldn't spin and finally it broke loose. Kind if hard to explain.
 
A conjunction?
 
Anyone ever used a engine spray paint to paint an engine? Im thinking a ford blue after rebuild is finished
 
I have. The engine was painted about 5.5 years ago, and the block and heads have held up well with really no prep work. The valve covers, and anything aluminum is peeling.
 

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