Dreaded code 214 is back

[Eddo Rogue]

I already swapped the cam position synchro/sensor about 500 miles ago.

Code 214 popped up yesterday. Did my cam sensor go bad again? or is it something else?

I read it could also be coil pack or crank sensor. Is this common?

Truck runs great despite the CEL.

 

[RonD]

Could be a glitch in the system

214 Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal

Reset and see if it comes back

Cylinder ID can be crank sensor as well, but if there is a Cam sensor, in 1993 4.0l Ranger only in calif., then more likely to be cam sensor

Cylinder ID tracks if a cylinder firing adds power to the crank, this is done by millisecond timing as the crank and/or cam sensor sends pulses back to the computer, if pulses slow its a misfire on a cylinder, cylinder ID tells which cylinder it was
Cam sensor rotor turns at half the speed as crank sensor rotor so has much better resolution when a cylinder misfires

If CID is off computer will often switch to Batch Fire injection, vs Sequential injection, so engine will run fine but MPG may drop a bit, just a bit
And you couldn't pass emissions with the CEL on

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I already replaced the cam sensor and synchronizer about 500 miles ago. Do you mean it could be bad again?

I read it could just glitch as well, I will reset and see if it comes back. Thanks Ron!

 

[RonD]

New just means "never tested", unless it was motorcraft synchro/sensor

So grain of salt with "new" parts

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Its not a Dorman.

I forget the brand but it seemed legit and wasn't cheap.

I read Motorcraft doesnt make em anymore for my year/engine. I couldn't find one.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I disconnected battery to reset the codes. CEL came right back on. I have a brand new NAPA spare coil pack, will swap it while I wait for the crank sensor I ordered to arrive. Hopefully its not the cam sensor again.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Swapped out crank sensor, CEL still on. Gonna swap out coil pack and plug wires next. If that doesnt work I found a NOS motorcraft cam synchro/sensor that will go in.

 

[RonD]

For sure won't be the coil pack

If engine runs its not the crank sensor either

So cam sensor again
What was the code last time can sensor was replaced?

Computer has these codes to chose from
214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems
215 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 1 - Ignition Systems
216 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 - Ignition Systems
217 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 3 - Ignition Systems
218 (M) IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure - Ignition Systems

So I would think coil pack issue would be 215-217 on a V6

 

[Eddo Rogue]

For sure won't be the coil pack

If engine runs its not the crank sensor either

So cam sensor again
What was the code last time can sensor was replaced?

Computer has these codes to chose from
214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal - Ignition Systems
215 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 1 - Ignition Systems
216 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 - Ignition Systems
217 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 3 - Ignition Systems
218 (M) IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure - Ignition Systems

So I would think coil pack issue would be 215-217 on a V6

Engines runs great....
Last time code was a 214 as well. But last time it had a squeak and the connector was broken off the sensor.
Its been about 500 miles since I did the cam synchro last time.

On the plus side I probably wont need to do the lower intake gasket again this time.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Do you think I could get away with changing just the sensor and not the whole synchro?

 

[RonD]

Depends what wrong

Changing the synchro is easier if you don't try to time it from scratch
Take off the sensor part and look at where the spinning tab is in relation to the sensor screw holes, put in new synchro with tab in same position, all timed
Assuming it was timed before, lol

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Depends what wrong

Changing the synchro is easier if you don't try to time it from scratch
Take off the sensor part and look at where the spinning tab is in relation to the sensor screw holes, put in new synchro with tab in same position, all timed
Assuming it was timed before, lol

This is what I did last time. I am assuming it was timed before since it was running great. I did the whole find tdc then the 34mm tape mark on the pulley. the new one dropped right in and lined up same as the old one (I took pics for reference). It fired right up and CEL was gone.

That was about 500 miles ago. The CEL code 214 came back on about 30 miles ago.

The truck still runs great!

Is it possible I didn't tighten the hold down enough and maybe it spun itself out of time?

I will probably swap it again anyways when the motorcraft unit shows up.

Luckily my EGR came apart easy. I remember the biggest challenge was dropping in the synchro aligned and catching the pushrod (which I used a dab of grease to hold centered)