Door ajar circuit question

[jballard81]

I'm trying to decide if my ignition cylinder is almost bad or if maybe there are some other sins somewhere else in my steering column.

If I have my key in the ignition and the key turned back towards me one click to what I assume is accessories only (my radio turns on) if I open my door should I hear the door ajar ding?

Currently when I do this, I typically don't get the ding, but then again, sometimes I do. When I do get the ding, if I manually press the door jamb switch it stops the ding. Other times I can jiggle the key some and that will also stop the ding.

What 'should' happen with the key turned back and the door ajar?

Can a key/ignition cylinder get so worn out that it will still work in the ignition, but not the door cylinders?

 

[Curious Hound]

Can a key/ignition cylinder get so worn out that it will still work in the ignition, but not the door cylinders?

Not sure I have a good answer for your other questions. But on this part, it's not just the key that wears. The ignition cylinder and door cylinders also wear, and probably at different rates. For example, the driver side door cylinder gets a lot more use than the passenger side. So driver door cylinder will wear quicker. If the vehicle has been owned by someone who lived in a safe area and didn't always lock their doors, then the ignition cylinder would easily get more wear than the driver door cylinder.

Another factor in the equation is the little doohickey that senses the key in the ignition. It's kind of a delicate little thing and easy to break any time you fiddle with replacing the ignition cylinder.

Its complicated.

 

[jballard81]

That definitely makes sense.

Without knowing if my key is the original or not and knowing it does not work in the door cylinders, I should probably just replace them all.

Without getting ford to cut a key by vin, I have no way of knowing if any of it's original or not and that would likely cost more than replacing them.

Such a delicate balance between finding the answers, spending money or spending time and less money

 

[RonD]

The dinging should happen anytime key is not removed from ignition switch and drivers door is opened
Even if engine is running or just in ACC

Its a "key in ignition" reminder
Pushing in the door jamb plunger should turn off the dinging, because "door is closed"

Jiggling the key shouldn't turn off dinger, so that's your problem, ignition cylinder
There will be a single wire on the ignition switch cylinder holder, the key in the ignition grounds that wire, which grounds the "Dinger"
But dinger doesn't have 12volts so no "dings"

The door jamb switch does have 12volts, and when the door is opened the switch sends 12v to Dome light and to Dinger
So if Key is grounding the dinger it "dings", key out no "ding" just Dome light with door open

1995 and up used slightly different setup with GEM module

Any locksmith can make you new keys, which may ground the cylinder better
You can also get a new cylinder and locksmith can re-pin it to match door locks

 

[jballard81]

The dinging should happen anytime key is not remove from ignition switch and drivers door is opened
Even if engine is running or just in ACC

Its a "key in ignition" reminder
Pushing in the door jamb plunger should turn off the dinging, because "door is closed"

Jiggling the key shouldn't turn off dinger, so that's your problem, ignition cylinder
The will be a single wire on the ignition switch cylinder holder, the key in the ignition grounds that wire, which grounds the "Dinger"
But dinger doesn't have 12volts so no "dings"

The door jamb switch does have 12volts, and when the door is opened the switch sends 12v to Dome light and to Dinger
So if Key is grounding the dinger it "dings", key out no "ding" just Dome light with door open

1995 and up used slightly different setup with GEM module

Any locksmith can make you new keys, which may ground the cylinder better
You can also get a new cylinder and locksmith can re-pin it to match door locks

Thank you for all the information!

Would I need to pull one of the cylinder locks out for the locksmith to get what they need to rekey the ignition cylinder?

Again, I really appreciate all the help!

 

[RobbieD]

I would also suggest calling around to locksmiths close to you . It's a 30 year old truck. Ford dealerships are getting hit-or-miss on stuff that old.

Working from (fading) memory from re-keying my trucks before, I *think* that you'll have a 10-cut Stratec lock/key system, with the ignition using 6 cuts on one end of the key and the doors using 6 cuts on the other end of the key (one cut is shared).

A good, experienced locksmith will more likely have the tools and knowledge to get you setup in the most cost-effective way. Pulling a door cylinder (relatively easy) will most probably help you, but check around before you tear things apart.

 

[RonD]

Cylinder locks, car or home, generally work the same way
Google: Recoding a new ignition lock cylinder

Watch the 3 min video, it shows how these types of locks work

Car keys are cut on both sides so they can be put in the cylinder either way and work, so not a more complicated lock, just more convenient

Vehicle Door locks usually have 1 or 2 less "pins"/wafers than the ignition lock
Just FYI

In the video the are 7 "pins"/wafers for ignition lock, door lock may only have 5 or 6 so someone can't make a full copy of ignition key using just a door lock, Fords used to come with round head key for door only and a square head for door or ignition, yes I am old, lol

Locksmiths will usually have Ford pin/wafer kits, like this: https://www.lockpicks.com/media/cat...78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/7/0/703373p.jpg

That's how they can match the lock cylinder to the key, same as in the video

Keys do wear down, period, but a locksmith can usually cut a new key using the barely working old key, and "refresh" new key so it works better

Removing the ignition lock cylinder is usually fairly easy IF.........you have a working key to turn the cylinder
There is a "release" button on the under side of the cylinder holder
Turn the key to on/run
Push in and hold the button and the cylinder with key can be pulled out
But vehicle is now "on" so battery can run down, so you may want to disconnect battery if cylinder will be out for awhile, just a heads up

On the underside of the steering column's clam shell cover, there is a hole under the ignition cylinder area with no obvious reason for being there, lol
If you put a small diameter screwdriver or rod in that hole you can push in the release button
If there is no hole or you can't seem to find the button, then remove the clam shells, just 2 screws on the under side, and you will see the button

 

[RobbieD]

Fords used to come with round head key for door only and a square head for door or ignition, yes I am old, lol

Old? . . . before that they had latch strings.

 

[jballard81]

So finally got around to checking the passenger door ajar button and it was pressed in too far for the door to make contact. But the wire slipped out of my hand while I was checking it..

Someone please tell me there's an easy way to get into this panel to get the connector.

 

[RobbieD]

What I would try first . . .
Pull the fuse for the dome circuit, then bend a peice of solid strand wire (you can even use a coat hanger) into a hook, and go fishing.

If you can hook it and get it to the hole, it may take some fancy work with a seal pick, scriber or jeweller's screwdrivers to line it up and pull it back through.

 

[jballard81]

Will do that first!

I managed to fix the inner light part and get it attached where it's supposed to be

Super glue and epoxy

 

[RobbieD]

You are really doing good with that old truck.

You'll probably have to be treated for depression, after you've fixed everything and are out of stuff needing work.

 

[jballard81]

You are really doing good with that old truck.

You'll probably have to be treated for depression, after you've fixed everything and are out of stuff needing work.

I've been looking at old bronco ii's. It's a sickness.

 

[jballard81]

Well, I won and lost at the same time

Will solder them back into the crimps

 

[jballard81]

Things definitely didn't escalate


I totally didn't destroy the connector and solder the door ajar switch directly in...
At least I extended the wires by a few inches

Waaaaay better