Does this configuration exist? (4cyl,5spd,pwr and cruise)

[Jayhovah]

Short version of this post:
I'm shopping for a late 90's early 00's ranger that is:
4 cylinder
5 speed manual
power windows, doors, and cruise control.

Does this configuration exist? I do see the occasional extended cab, 4cyl, 5speed truck pop up for sale, but thus far none of them have had the luxery features prompting me to wonder if I am likely to find one at all... Anyone know or have one in that setup?

'Long version' details to go along with above... just in case anyone wonders...
A couple of months ago I bought an '01 Edge standard cab automatic... you might recall the thread I posted here:
http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166719

Since then, i have come to realize a few things about my needs for the vehicle:
1) There is pretty much no in-cab storage space. In order to keep the mileage down on my girlfriend's car we want to use the truck for some road trips..

2) Because we want to use the truck on some road trips... I'd like to find a 4cyl/5speed model since they have the best fuel economy. This truck is going to be a pseudo daily driver too, and I have no need to ever tow anything anyway..

3) I've become too used to comforts like power windows, locks, and cruise control... I'd really like to have this stuff and would prefer factory systems to aftermarket add-ons.

 

[riparke]

Yes I Have a 2010 Ranger 2.3 extended cab 2wd with cruise, power windows and locks ( with remote key fab)

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

They were pretty stingey putting 2.3's in extended cab trucks.

Be forewarned, as you add weight the smaller engine especially will start to lose mpg.

 

[adsm08]

You do know that a 3.0/5-speed, while having pretty much all the same lack of power as the 4-cyl, does about the same on fuel on the highway (my one college roommate claimed 32MPG highway out of his 3.0/5-speed/4x4) and is more likely to have the options you want.

Also, consider that fuel is actually one of the smallest costs involved in owning a vehicle. It just seems like more than it is because unlike the payment or the insurance you see it every week. Some weeks more than once.

At the height of her driving the Escape my wife was putting about $75 a week in the tank. This was 12 40 mile trips a week for work/church, plus running around town in the evening. The payments on the vehicle worked out to about $130 something a week.

Finding a vehicle that meets your wants/needs on every aspect but fuel economy and paying $500 less on the vehicle can make it take over three years to start to show the loss. It will vary based on miles driven and the difference in fuel economy, but it can take over 3 years before you start to loose money on the increased fuel consumption.

 

[Mark_88]

Yes...I built my second Ranger with 88 extended cab and a 2.3 carbureted using the 2.0 wiring...it was not too bad power wise but I gained weight and lost HP at some point...so I started tossing things...like jump seats...tailgate, girlfriend...dog...

It got so lonely and slow I started waving to other drivers to feel like I was part of the real world...and they flipped me the bird for being so slow...

<- Me

Them...

Me

Them

Me

Them

 

[Jayhovah]

You do know that a 3.0/5-speed, while having pretty much all the same lack of power as the 4-cyl, does about the same on fuel on the highway (my one college roommate claimed 32MPG highway out of his 3.0/5-speed/4x4) and is more likely to have the options you want.

Also, consider that fuel is actually one of the smallest costs involved in owning a vehicle. It just seems like more than it is because unlike the payment or the insurance you see it every week. Some weeks more than once.

At the height of her driving the Escape my wife was putting about $75 a week in the tank. This was 12 40 mile trips a week for work/church, plus running around town in the evening. The payments on the vehicle worked out to about $130 something a week.

Finding a vehicle that meets your wants/needs on every aspect but fuel economy and paying $500 less on the vehicle can make it take over three years to start to show the loss. It will vary based on miles driven and the difference in fuel economy, but it can take over 3 years before you start to loose money on the increased fuel consumption.

Hmmm... You make a lot of sense. Our most common road trip (make 7 or 8 times a year) would only cost about $10 more in fuel with the V6. I'm not in a hurry to buy as the regular cab model I currently have still works for me, just isn't ideal... If the right one comes along with a V6 I'll probably jump on it!

 

[Shran]

Having owned several 2.3 powered trucks and driven several with 3.0's, I'd probably not buy the V6 truck, everything else being equal. I don't know about a 3.0/5 speed, but the 3.0/auto I drove was a total dog. My 2.3/5 speed is maybe lacking slightly in low end torque for towing but that's about all, everything else is the same or better on my side. I average around 20mpg with the 4 cylinder year-round.

Just go into it knowing that either way you're buying a small truck with a small engine, and your power to weight ratio is working against the truck in both cases.

 

[don4331]

Jayhovah:

I'm not sure you will find a late '90s/early 00s, S/C Ranger with 4 cyl. While the 3.0 was around, I'm not sure Ford build S/C's with anything other than V-6. Post '08, they existing but are like 4 cyl/4x4s - rare.

What I have learned attempting some of the upgrades you are talking about:

Assumption: You are handy and have access to auto wrecker with your vintage Ranger.

Speed Control is "relatively" easy to install. You need the switches for the steering wheel and the module under the hood which connects from the wiring harness to the throttle and bolts to passenger's fender. All the wires required were under the dash/hood. I took opportunity to install tilt steering wheel so was simply disconnect wires, unbolt, remove old steering wheel, install new steering wheel, bolt up, connect wires. Don't think it took an hour to install. Maybe I was "@$$-hat" but I assumed the under hood module was generic and believe mine came from 5.0 Explorer and seems to work just fine. Weight increase is 4 pounds according to Ford's options weights and IMNSHO worth its weight in gold on long trips.

Everything else is MAJOR effort to install.

Air Conditioning.
Under the hood is relatively easy. Loosen radiator, put a/c condenser in front, tighten radiator. Bracket was already on engine to install the compressor, so it was quick bolt in. I then needed the longer serpentine belt associated with a/c, but it needed replacement anyways. (Old belt is now under seat...it would get me home if the working one ever broke). Ford uses the 8 blade fan (versus stock 7) with a/c so, I made the swap there too. 4 bolts removed the heater only fan assembly (helps to remove the inner fender liner). Replace with the a/c evaporator fan assembly. Air conditioning system can be charged at this point. There are couple vacuum lines to connect. Then things take a turn for ugly.

Ford has configuration specific wiring harnesses (why they include speed control in default, I don't understand but am not complaining). So, wires for everything else aren't included. My solution was to go to wrecker and get entire under hood harness from a "loaded 4x4" same year Ranger. Then I removed the 4x4/4.0/auto portion and installed my 4x2/2.5/manual portion (As a result, I have option for ABS, fog lights, etc). At the end, one has the connectors for the compressor, a/c pressure switches and the a/c clutch control relay.

Moving inside cab, we remove the dash! (I found it easiest to remove the seat and steering wheel first as it made for more room and made things lighter...) With dash out of way, drain radiator, so you can disconnect heater, then you can remove the heater only and replace it with the heater/ac unit. Heater lines can be reconnected and rad refilled.

Again, we find a whole bunch of missing wires, so the dash from the loaded 4x4 was secured as well. If you are just doing a/c, you could pull the appropriate wires for the blend door, and to re-wire the blower motor (at least on my '98 there are wiring differences between heater only and heater/a/c wiring).

Then reinstall dash and enjoy the cool air conditioned comfort.

A/C adds 60lbs (2% of base Ranger weight), the 8 blade fan sucks power, and when running definitely suck power.

Power Mirrors/Windows
If you are adding power windows/mirrors, they also require you have dash out. We add the necessary wires from our junkyard dash, specifically there will be a relay box for the power windows.

Real PIA portion of this - there is a dash to cab connector which needs to have required wires for the driver's door power accessories. Wires go about 12"/30cm from dash connector to door connector - not one of Ford's better ideas.

With all wires in place, dash is re-installed.

For the doors, you will want new door panels without the window crank holes and with the switches. You will also want the wires and the power window mechanisms. I found the rivets a royal pain to remove to get the power windows mechanism out.

Power Windows in doors (specifically drivers) were last thing I did as if they didn't work, truck was PIA to drive.

Power Locks

Easy part - door installation - was as easy as removing the old (3 bolts, 4 wires - handles internal and external and locks key and interior) and 1 connector; then installing bolts, wires, and 2 connectors.

Hard part - requires additional dash wiring. Worse (for me) required a different GEM*. The "non-power group" GEM doesn't include the power locks. On top of that my 'base' Ranger didn't have "anti theft", so I had to add the RAP module and of course the wiring for it.

Power Windows/Locks/Doors only add 6lbs.

*The "loaded 4x4" GEM isn't 'happy' that it is 'missing' 4x4 contacts so throws check engine code, but it runs. I need to find a "loaded 4x2" GEM, the search continues.

A/C is the performance killer.

p.s. For reference S/C weights 160 lbs more than R/C (base to base).

My vehicles: (all mileage is combined over >1 year/10,000 miles)
S/C/4.0/auto/4x4 gets 19 mpg (US).
R/C/3.0/5spd/4x2 gets 22 mpg (US)
Explorer Sport/4.0/auto/4x4 get 17 mpg (US) which is about 2 mpg better than EPA estimate.

Explorer got 34.5 mpg (Imp) one tank; but the next one was only 14 (when it was properly refilled).

My R/C/2.5/5spd/4x2 doesn't have enough miles for accurate number. But, it doesn't get better city economy as the 4 cyl warms up faster which will help its overall numbers...

 

[Jayhovah]

Jayhovah:

I'm not sure you will find a late '90s/early 00s, S/C Ranger with 4 cyl. While the 3.0 was around, I'm not sure Ford build S/C's with anything other than V-6. Post '08, they existing but are like 4 cyl/4x4s - rare.

What I have learned attempting some of the upgrades you are talking about:

Assumption: You are handy and have access to auto wrecker with your vintage Ranger.

Speed Control is "relatively" easy to install. You need the switches for the steering wheel and the module under the hood which connects from the wiring harness to the throttle and bolts to passenger's fender. All the wires required were under the dash/hood. I took opportunity to install tilt steering wheel so was simply disconnect wires, unbolt, remove old steering wheel, install new steering wheel, bolt up, connect wires. Don't think it took an hour to install. Maybe I was "@$$-hat" but I assumed the under hood module was generic and believe mine came from 5.0 Explorer and seems to work just fine. Weight increase is 4 pounds according to Ford's options weights and IMNSHO worth its weight in gold on long trips.

Everything else is MAJOR effort to install.

Air Conditioning.
Under the hood is relatively easy. Loosen radiator, put a/c condenser in front, tighten radiator. Bracket was already on engine to install the compressor, so it was quick bolt in. I then needed the longer serpentine belt associated with a/c, but it needed replacement anyways. (Old belt is now under seat...it would get me home if the working one ever broke). Ford uses the 8 blade fan (versus stock 7) with a/c so, I made the swap there too. 4 bolts removed the heater only fan assembly (helps to remove the inner fender liner). Replace with the a/c evaporator fan assembly. Air conditioning system can be charged at this point. There are couple vacuum lines to connect. Then things take a turn for ugly.

Ford has configuration specific wiring harnesses (why they include speed control in default, I don't understand but am not complaining). So, wires for everything else aren't included. My solution was to go to wrecker and get entire under hood harness from a "loaded 4x4" same year Ranger. Then I removed the 4x4/4.0/auto portion and installed my 4x2/2.5/manual portion (As a result, I have option for ABS, fog lights, etc). At the end, one has the connectors for the compressor, a/c pressure switches and the a/c clutch control relay.

Moving inside cab, we remove the dash! (I found it easiest to remove the seat and steering wheel first as it made for more room and made things lighter...) With dash out of way, drain radiator, so you can disconnect heater, then you can remove the heater only and replace it with the heater/ac unit. Heater lines can be reconnected and rad refilled.

Again, we find a whole bunch of missing wires, so the dash from the loaded 4x4 was secured as well. If you are just doing a/c, you could pull the appropriate wires for the blend door, and to re-wire the blower motor (at least on my '98 there are wiring differences between heater only and heater/a/c wiring).

Then reinstall dash and enjoy the cool air conditioned comfort.

A/C adds 60lbs (2% of base Ranger weight), the 8 blade fan sucks power, and when running definitely suck power.

Power Mirrors/Windows
If you are adding power windows/mirrors, they also require you have dash out. We add the necessary wires from our junkyard dash, specifically there will be a relay box for the power windows.

Real PIA portion of this - there is a dash to cab connector which needs to have required wires for the driver's door power accessories. Wires go about 12"/30cm from dash connector to door connector - not one of Ford's better ideas.

With all wires in place, dash is re-installed.

For the doors, you will want new door panels without the window crank holes and with the switches. You will also want the wires and the power window mechanisms. I found the rivets a royal pain to remove to get the power windows mechanism out.

Power Windows in doors (specifically drivers) were last thing I did as if they didn't work, truck was PIA to drive.

Power Locks

Easy part - door installation - was as easy as removing the old (3 bolts, 4 wires - handles internal and external and locks key and interior) and 1 connector; then installing bolts, wires, and 2 connectors.

Hard part - requires additional dash wiring. Worse (for me) required a different GEM*. The "non-power group" GEM doesn't include the power locks. On top of that my 'base' Ranger didn't have "anti theft", so I had to add the RAP module and of course the wiring for it.

Power Windows/Locks/Doors only add 6lbs.

*The "loaded 4x4" GEM isn't 'happy' that it is 'missing' 4x4 contacts so throws check engine code, but it runs. I need to find a "loaded 4x2" GEM, the search continues.

A/C is the performance killer.

p.s. For reference S/C weights 160 lbs more than R/C (base to base).

My vehicles: (all mileage is combined over >1 year/10,000 miles)
S/C/4.0/auto/4x4 gets 19 mpg (US).
R/C/3.0/5spd/4x2 gets 22 mpg (US)
Explorer Sport/4.0/auto/4x4 get 17 mpg (US) which is about 2 mpg better than EPA estimate.

Explorer got 34.5 mpg (Imp) one tank; but the next one was only 14 (when it was properly refilled).

My R/C/2.5/5spd/4x2 doesn't have enough miles for accurate number. But, it doesn't get better city economy as the 4 cyl warms up faster which will help its overall numbers...

This is a lot of excellent information!!! Thanks!
I am pretty handy (hobbyist level) around a car, but to be honest I don't want another project.. my 370Z already provides me with plenty of items on the to-do list. =) I don't mind doing repairs of course, but I'd like to avoid going into this thing with a bunch of project plans.

Looks like I should look for something with a 5-speed, cruise, and power options and not worry about which engine is in it. I just found a candidate on craigslist... 1996 4.0 V6 Manual with cruise and power everything..151k miles. Anything else I should look out for? I have looked over the buying guide on this site.